Suspension help

[basher1]

Looking to firm up my suspension for bashing what hopups should I consider?
Looking at dhawk aluminum caps
Ci foams
Not shore what springs are recommended?
Front sway bar?
Is there anything else to consider to firm up suspension?

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by basher1

Looking to firm up my suspension for bashing what hopups should I consider?
Looking at dhawk aluminum caps
Ci foams
Not shore what springs are recommended?
Front sway bar?
Is there anything else to consider to firm up suspension?

HR front sway bar has worked for me.

[basher1]

How about the hot racing springs do the dual rate springs work better than the one piece springs?

[pro mod steve]

Just a basher here too and did a lot of testing to get it right. FRONT I run RTR springs #31242 with 45WT oil. REAR I run kit springs #31276 and #31279 and 15WT oil. I have been using this set up for over a year and really like the performance from it. The DHAWK AL caps are a plus. In the caps I use a Team Associated bladder #89351 instead of the o-ring. CI foams are worth every penny and more. Really a game changer.

[basher1]

I m running kit spring all around with the hardest springs in rear 50 weight in rear and kit sway bar in rear. The front is my biggest issue kit spring in front 35 weight running 6s. The car sways a lot under power are you running front sway bar? Up graded wheels and foam? The front steering turnbuckles seem a bit sloppy that come with the kit also? Even though I have the hot racing bell crank the front still has a lot of slop.

[pro mod steve]

I don't run a front sway bar just rear. I did replace all the plastic pivot balls with steel from DHAWK when I built my kit as I did not like the thought of the plastic balls flexing and causing slop. Also use a DHAWK AL steering bell crank. Due to no sprung weight 50WT is WAY to heavy in the rear. It must bounce all over the place with that thick oil in the rear.

[basher1]

Actually not very bouncy at all with a 4 hole piston. I definitely will look at changing the pillow balls. Are you able to stay in full throttle long with your setup?

[pro mod steve]

You have to be smooth with the trigger on this thing. Get it rolling first and then let all hell break loose. If I have enough room at my bash spot yes it gets full throttle a lot. My favorite bash spot I don't have enough room for long full trigger runs plus with 6S it gets there rather quickly.

[basher1]

with gradual acceleration I can get about 80 percent throttle before it gets of the ground.

[basher1]

Broke my servo horn any servo horn recommendation need something strong? From what I can tell nothing is hitting to cause it to break I think it's just these big stock tires and my hitec 7950th running through grass. Need something with thicker material?

[pro mod steve]

I used the aluminum one from Axial when I built my kit and no issues.

[TOMS97ZJ]

Originally Posted by pro mod steve

I used the aluminum one from Axial when I built my kit and no issues.

Yep. One of the first things I upgraded.

[basher1]

Thanks, saw a picture of the Axial horn man that thing is beefy just what I need.

[basher1]

Well I installed the Hr front sway bar and Axial servo horn the truck runs fantastic. My truck I have pretty much bulletproof the driveline except doing Vanquish housing that I am know considering. Do you guys still get some clicking in the rear at launch on concrete? I have the dhawk spacer and HR aluminum diff cup and BHB modd on hd gears in stock housing on Hr lockouts. When I checked the rear diff didn't see any shavings but I want to be safe than sorry what do you guys think get the housing?

[BarHarborBasher]

Originally Posted by basher1

Well I installed the Hr front sway bar and Axial servo horn the truck runs fantastic. My truck I have pretty much bulletproof the driveline except doing Vanquish housing that I am know considering. Do you guys still get some clicking in the rear at launch on concrete? I have the dhawk spacer and HR aluminum diff cup and BHB modd on hd gears in stock housing on Hr lockouts. When I checked the rear diff didn't see any shavings but I want to be safe than sorry what do you guys think get the housing?

I can vouch that the stock plastic axle is 6S capable. I'd look for a broken pin in the hubs or inside the diff inputs/sungear locations.
Look for a bent slipper shaft or any carnage

[basher1]

Originally Posted by BarHarborBasher

I can vouch that the stock plastic axle is 6S capable. I'd look for a broken pin in the hubs or inside the diff inputs/sungear locations.
Look for a bent slipper shaft or any carnage

I will give that a look

[Pete9]

Steve, you're running the CI deuces wild foams? What's your wheel/tire combo? I keep looking at those Motoworx beadlocks. Good looking but pricey.

[basher1]

Originally Posted by BarHarborBasher

I can vouch that the stock plastic axle is 6S capable. I'd look for a broken pin in the hubs or inside the diff inputs/sungear locations.
Look for a bent slipper shaft or any carnage

Well after removing the rear diff I noticed all 4 screws that secure the diff cup were loose and all diff fluid drained out luckily no damage to pin and gears. I applied some fresh locktite will test in morning. Good call out if you didn't suggest that I probably wouldnt have looked any deeper, since I felt I secured that area well during the build.

[BarHarborBasher]

Originally Posted by basher1

Well after removing the rear diff I noticed all 4 screws that secure the diff cup were loose and all diff fluid drained out luckily no damage to pin and gears. I applied some fresh locktite will test in morning. Good call out if you didn't suggest that I probably wouldnt have looked any deeper, since I felt I secured that area well during the build.

Make sure that you vent your diffs or you will break screws off into the cup or the seals will leak from the hydraulic pressure. Use the set screw port for venting.

[basher1]

Is it worth upgrading from the kit rear sway bar to the hot racing sway bar? Kit sway bar has a lot of flex