Play in steering after upgrade?

[motopreserve]

Hey folks,

I just installed the VP steering rack and double sheer upgrade kit. I don't know if I missed something - but it seems there is still a ton of play in the steering rack (double sheer) area.

Most noticeably, the steering double sheer itself (both sides) seems to move up and down more than it should (I spaced on checking it before the upgrades for comparison). I assumed the new bearings would help take the slop out.

How much play should the upgraded double sheer with new VP rack have?

Thanks in advance....

[the_ocho]

Originally Posted by motopreserve

Hey folks,

I just installed the VP steering rack and double sheer upgrade kit. I don't know if I missed something - but it seems there is still a ton of play in the steering rack (double sheer) area.

Most noticeably, the steering double sheer itself (both sides) seems to move up and down more than it should (I spaced on checking it before the upgrades for comparison). I assumed the new bearings would help take the slop out.

How much play should the upgraded double sheer with new VP rack have?

Thanks in advance....

When I installed mine the bearings were so tight I had to tap them on. After wearing it in with a full Pack I have about .5 mm of play up and down. way less than it was before

[QDRHRSE]

Does the aluminum rack get rid of the servo saver? I've never really looked that close at it? If you haven't locked the saver out you will always have a ton of slop.

[the_ocho]

Originally Posted by QDRHRSE

Does the aluminum rack get rid of the servo saver? I've never really looked that close at it? If you haven't locked the saver out you will always have a ton of slop.

No the aluminum rack just replaces the plastic rack and screws into the same place.

The double sheer posts just replace the plastic posts and bushings with metal post and bearings. This is where almost all of the slop is in the factory system.

[motopreserve]

Yep, the saver stays unless you do some other mods. I have read about the washer fix, or replacing it completely locking the saver. I could turn some aluminum for the locked saver??? Or does it need to be delrin or plastic (the only one I've seen).

The video below shows the slop I am talking about....

Yeti steering slop - YouTube

[QDRHRSE]

I installed the Vanquish posts and bearings and replaed the servo. The saver makes the steering very sluggish.

[the_ocho]

I locked my servo saver and had a broken servo in one run. Go fast rigs that jump and hit stuff need to have some give in the system.

[Rjohn929]

Even locked out with all the VP stuff you will have slop. It's a terrible design and the VP stuff doesn't make a ton of difference. The stock pieces that stay float around the screws, almost like they need to be sleeved to take up the slack or use a different kind of screw. Also, the VP rack is machined so the traxxas balls on my turnbuckles don't fit tightly. They slide up and down on the screws creating more slop. Maybe the new run of them is different but mine is not very good. I added two washers to each side to tighten them up. I wish they would have used some 4x4 SCT trucks as a guide to making this.

[motopreserve]

I've definitely heard both opinions about the servo saver, and while I understand the potential drawbacks to the performance, I'm not good enough to worry about that . I think it's best for me to keep the saver, and maybe tighten it up with a turned spacer or washer.

I ended up slapping some traxxas turnbuckles too - but they only had 2 at the LHS. I'll order the recommended ones soon - and all 4. They definitely need so e washers though.

I was most concerned with the movement of the double sheer while turning the wheels by hand, especially since everyone seemed to talk like that was the biggest upgrade worth making. Surprised it still moves as much as it does. Seems like the new aluminum sleeves are the wrong OD.

Thanks for all the feedback folks.

[the_ocho]

Originally Posted by Rjohn929

Even locked out with all the VP stuff you will have slop. It's a terrible design and the VP stuff doesn't make a ton of difference. The stock pieces that stay float around the screws, almost like they need to be sleeved to take up the slack or use a different kind of screw. Also, the VP rack is machined so the traxxas balls on my turnbuckles don't fit tightly. They slide up and down on the screws creating more slop. Maybe the new run of them is different but mine is not very good. I added two washers to each side to tighten them up. I wish they would have used some 4x4 SCT trucks as a guide to making this.

I used traxxas 3643 turn buckles from a 4X4 slash and have zero slop in the rack. those turbuckles use a larger rod end with a wider ball.

I had to replace the ball with a regular revo one to make it fit the hub carrier on the upper links

[SoCal Crawlr]

Yeah never really jumped on the vp rack and posts, didn't see how they'd functionally be able to make a big difference. I noticed quiet a bit with my titanium links, and also bought bearings to put in the stock posts which I'm hoping helps, otherwise not sure if there's much more than can be done

[motopreserve]

Yep. My fault for not taking a closer looking closer at the fictionality of these parts before hitting the buy button. I hadn't torn apart the front at the time. The reviews were so over the moon about these products, it seemed a no-brainer. Live and learn.

The sheer post comes with the bearings - so while they're still more expensive than bearings alone, I figure it doesn't hurt to have that plastic post updated to metal.

SoCal, which links do you have? Did they come with rod ends/balls that for snug? Or did you have to modify with washers?

[Rjohn929]

Originally Posted by the_ocho

I used traxxas 3643 turn buckles from a 4X4 slash and have zero slop in the rack. those turbuckles use a larger rod end with a wider ball.

I had to replace the ball with a regular revo one to make it fit the hub carrier on the upper links

And they fit right in? I have those balls also and they were too wide to fit the steering rack and the trailing arms. I figured using the smaller balls with the washers would be better then trying to bend or grind down the rack or arms. Maybe I gave up too soon.

[zuki250]

I have done the VP rack, sheer pins and traxxas links with revo balls and a bearing the saver to tighten it up. My truck is very tight and shows almost no slop...I figure if i do the knuckles that would finish it off...just don't want to spend the money on it right now...I also don't bash my truck, it is strictly for u4

[motopreserve]

Zuki, Are you cramming a bearing inside the saver with the spring? Which size bearing did you use for the saver? I have only seen the washer fix - and of course losing the spring all together.

Do your sheer system move up and down at all (like in the video)?

Thanks for the input

[zuki250]

Ugh i can't remember the size...yes just one bearing on top of the spring to tighten it up...works great

[motopreserve]

Thanks. Might have to give that a try. I think I measured for a washer - maybe local hardware has a bearing that will work.

[JAYDEN1999]

Try getting new rod ends, this may reduce some of the slop

[motopreserve]

Which rod ends are you referring to? The Revo for the turnbuckle fix? Currently I am waiting on the traxxas units to arrive so I will have the complete set.

Or are you referring to the ends from the servo?

[Zombi]

Originally Posted by zuki250

Ugh i can't remember the size...yes just one bearing on top of the spring to tighten it up...works great

5x11