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Thread: ROD ENDS for Losi (and similar) SHOCKS

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Old 06-13-2010, 11:37 PM   #1
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Default ROD ENDS for Losi (and similar) SHOCKS

These rod ends are made specifically to fit the upper fixed end of the Losi Comp Crawler brand shocks. These rod ends will also work the HB or similar shocks that have a 6mm thru hole.

Introductory price is $13. This will buy you 2 rod ends which are enough to do 2 shocks. Bolts and washers not included (Losi CC can use stock bolts and washers).

There are 2 styles of rod ends. The first has a shoulder so you can place it in the stock location or outboard on the axle. The second allows you to place them in the stock shock pockets.


Version with the shoulder:
No longer available. You can use the below style with a spacer (if needed).

Version without the shoulder:
http://www.dluxfab.com/products

Made from 303 Stainless steel ensuring they will remain smooth and rust free. MADE IN THE USA.

They remove all binding from suspension. I guarantee you will be amazed how these make your suspension MUCH more PREDICTABLE and SMOOTH.
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Last edited by Erik D_lux; 08-27-2011 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:50 PM   #2
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A popular modification for the Comp Crawler is to push the rear shocks outward on the axle side. In order to do this you need to space the upper end of the shock out with the plastic spacer or it will bind. When you use these new rod ends you will see that you do not have to use the spacers because it increases the misalignment. It increases it so much that you do not even have to use spacers. When you do not use the spacers you will se a DRASTIC DECREASE IN BODY ROLL. Pretty cool, right? It gets better! Not only can you remove the spacers but you can also mount the shock upside down to bring your center of gravity down!!! Try that with your stock spacers!

Mount shocks upside down or right side up. If you run these shocks in the stock positions there is zero binding. If you do mount them upside down you will need to do some simple modifications. On the front of a Comp Crawler you will need to grind your axle housing so the shock does not bind on the plastic. On the rear you will need to grind the shock so it does not bind on the shoulder. When flipped upside down and outboard in the rear it will bind with approx 3/8 compression left. You can space the top outward to fix or like most you will be running limiters anyway and it does not matter.

First picture shows how to grind the shock

Second picture shows close up of shock at full extension

Third picture shows close up of shock at full stuff

Fourth picture shows overall flex with shocks upside down and outboard of stock mounts.
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Old 06-15-2010, 07:21 PM   #3
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Will these work on the proline powerstrokes?
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:32 AM   #4
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These are only for 4-40 correct? If so, any plans for a run in 3mm?
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Old 06-16-2010, 10:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easleycrawler View Post
Will these work on the proline powerstrokes?
I will be needing a little help figuring out if these will fit all the shocks out there. Its just too tough to have them all.

You need to make sure your shock eye is .240 or LESS. If it is .240 thats perfect, if its less, you will need to drill it out to .240.

If measuring isnt really your thing you could always buy some and see if it works out. I would be more than happy to take the rod ends back and you would only be out a couple of dollars for shipping.

I have used these on a buddies HR shocks. We just had to drill out the shock eye a touch and they are good to go.

I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
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Old 06-16-2010, 10:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atekt View Post
These are only for 4-40 correct? If so, any plans for a run in 3mm?
They are drilled out for 4-40. If there is enough interest I would be more than happy to have some made for the 3mm.

If you read above, you will see that I have run these with HR shocks on a buddies Axial. We had to drill the shock a touch and then we drilled out the 4-40 hole for a 3mm. Its such a small difference in size that its really easy to do. It only took us seconds to drill each part.

Also, like I said above, give them a shot. If they dont work out, send them back for a refund. I dont know where you are in Utah but if youre local to the SLC area just drop by and grab some from me and then you wouldnt even be out the shipping cost.
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik D_lux View Post
They are drilled out for 4-40. If there is enough interest I would be more than happy to have some made for the 3mm.

If you read above, you will see that I have run these with HR shocks on a buddies Axial. We had to drill the shock a touch and then we drilled out the 4-40 hole for a 3mm. Its such a small difference in size that its really easy to do. It only took us seconds to drill each part.

Also, like I said above, give them a shot. If they dont work out, send them back for a refund. I dont know where you are in Utah but if youre local to the SLC area just drop by and grab some from me and then you wouldnt even be out the shipping cost.
Sounds good man, PM me where you are at. Id like to stop by and get some to try.
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Sounds good man, PM me where you are at. Id like to stop by and get some to try.
Cool. Sending PM now.
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Old 06-26-2010, 08:32 AM   #9
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These things are F'ing sweet. I am not sure how but they made it really easy to flip the shocks. And i had know idea that the rodends could affect the action to the suspension so much. I think i may need to go to a little thinker oil? On the rear shocks i have a 15mm limiter so i just spaced the top of the shock out a little and didn't have to grind on the shock body.
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Old 06-26-2010, 10:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stubs179 View Post
These things are F'ing sweet. I am not sure how but they made it really easy to flip the shocks. And i had know idea that the rodends could affect the action to the suspension so much. I think i may need to go to a little thinker oil? On the rear shocks i have a 15mm limiter so i just spaced the top of the shock out a little and didn't have to grind on the shock body.
They are sweet huh?

I knew I was on to something when I put mine on. I didnt even drive the car, I lifted one of the tires up in the air after putting them on and without thinking it shocked me how smooth the suspension became. I think its all in the stainless steel being so slick when working with the aluminum shock body.

One of my friends has not gotten around to grinding on his shock body. It limits his articuation for sure but it still works really good. I think an even bigger difference is moving the top of those shocks inward (no spacers). It took away a TON of body roll. Try it out and you will see what I mean. Its also really nice to not run spacers at the top because its less to deal with.

Thanks for the trade!
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:31 AM   #11
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Ya, the only drawback i see with these is i am really going to have to keep my leaky Losi shocks toped off. There is no friction to help with the dampening so the oil is doing 100% of the dampening now. I am seriously baffled by the difference it made. I had no idea the stock balls had the much friction?
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Old 06-27-2010, 03:28 PM   #12
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They are crazy! Night and day difference!

Its how a suspension is supposed to be. No binding, no friction. The shock does what its supposed to do and the link does what its supposed to do. Being stainless they will stay that way too.

I was trying to run heavier springs in the back to help with the body roll. Seemed I could not get heavy enough. I think this is what people are running limiters for also. Just big band aids. When you eliminate the spacers and push the bottom of the shock on the rear it REALLY helps with the body roll. I was running red springs (2.6 rate) and now switched back to the gold (1.4 rate) and body roll is 100x better. Mine side hills like a beast now!

When I fill my shocks I dont compress the rod all the way. I leave about 1/8" sticking out and tighten ths shock up. When I was pushing it all the way in I could feel a dead spot right at the top. Doing it this way will also help with the leaking. Gives you a little more room for leaking.

Anyway, glad you like em!
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:51 PM   #13
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anyone tried thies with traxxas big bores?
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TANK View Post
anyone tried thies with traxxas big bores?
Not that I know of.

Its the next project that is on the chopping block. Infact, if somebody was willing to get me the dimensions (I.D. of the eye and width of the eye) it would realliy speed things up. I may even give a good discount
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:01 AM   #15
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Thanks for all the orders guys!

These are now coming with a 3mm thru hole. I have a couple more going out with the 4-40 hole so if you need 3mm now be sure to leave me a note.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:23 PM   #16
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Thanks for the orders!
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TANK View Post
anyone tried thies with traxxas big bores?
There to big the shock cap is 5mm on BB"s
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Old 08-03-2010, 04:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardhead View Post
There to big the shock cap is 5mm on BB"s
Correct.

Here is a link for the right rod end for the big bore shocks:

ROD ENDS for TRAXXAS BIG BORE (and similar) SHOCKS
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Old 08-22-2010, 02:09 PM   #19
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Just got a TON more in stock!
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Old 09-11-2010, 02:30 PM   #20
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TTT thanks for the orders!
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