I'm building not 1 BUT 4 new rigs now.

[Esteban86K5]

Pinewood Derby rigs that is.
Our church is holding a pinewood derby race in Feb so the kids and I have entered. Here is what the cars look like so far.

This is my youngest son's.


This is my middle son's.


And this on is my daughter's car. Obviously a VW beetle.


They are going for looks more than speed. They are kind of young to be too competetive. I'm sure when they get older they will want to win instead of look good.

Mine is going to be a wedge/stick looking thing that will hopefully leave all the others in the dust.

I'm sure some of you youngsters have had some experience with these sort of cars. This is my first time building one(or 4) so any tips would be helpfull.

[CronusTRD]

graphite on the axles, and bury lead weights in the center.

[Cole82]

Also make sure and sand the tires smooth with fine grit paper.

[Esteban86K5]

I've been reading alot on different sites about helpfull tips.

So far I am going to groove and polish the axles. Use the graphite on them. Add weight towards the rear of the car with lead underneath. Smooth and polish the wheels and make the actual car as sleek and as smooth as I can.

[Trike Kid]

Polish axles, smooth tires, bury weight inside the car (weights for 1:1 aluminum car wheels work nicely). And if you want to win, angle a wheel up so the thing rides on 2 wheels most of the time. If they're imposing a weight limit, get a scale or take it to the post office and get it as close to limit as possible.

[WRMorrison]

Do these get the CO² cartridges in them? That's they way we made 'em in boy scouts many moons ago...

-WRM

[Grape Ape !!!]

you want to de-groove the axels, and to do the weights, buy the cylindrical weights and drill from the *** forward with a drill bit, take the cars painted with the wheels/ tires and the tube weights to the post office for the most accurate weight(after hours they are usually unlocked and scales in the lobby) get your weight and go home, put the weights in and wood putty over the hole and touch up the paint.

get your axels in with the tires on and put it on a flat surface , make sure all 4 tires hit the floor evenly and when you touch the different corners it doesnt rock back and forth.

when you have that done roll the car back and forth to make sure it runs straight, adjust the axels accordingly to make it straight. then when thats done take CA and glue the axels in place and transport the car in a padded shoe box so as to not jar the work you put in loose.

when your at the track watch which lane seems to be the striaghtest and try and get it. Most of the time the track that doesnt bobble side to side are the slowest,

For nice paint and decals spray your primer on the wood and then lay your first cote of gloss in the first 3 hours of the primer going down. once your gloss coats are down take a very fine sandpaper and lightly snad the surface and place down your water transfer decals down then clear coat with laquer, once its all dry take car wax and wax the car for a smooth finish. YOUR WHEELS AND TIRES SHOULD NOT BE INSTALLED UNTIL AFTER CAR IS PAINTED(wouldnt say it if it hadnt been a prob in the past)

Good luck
i have built 1st and 2nd place cars and 1st place paint and its not alot of effort

[Esteban86K5]

WOW, lotta info there Grape. Thanks!!!

[Trike Kid]

Originally Posted by Grape Ape !!!

get your axels in with the tires on and put it on a flat surface , make sure all 4 tires hit the floor evenly and when you touch the different corners it doesnt rock back and forth.

This was proven slower when I was a scout, my friend did it one year and got first, I got the win the next. I got 4th the year after, the top 3 had access to the track before anyone else.

[Grape Ape !!!]

well if your track has any side to side and there is any space between the wheels and the track the car has the ability to straddle the lane dividers and ending your chances. We race against a kid who's dad puts the car in at the wind tunnel at GE Aircraft.