RCCrawler Forums

country_crawler · 08-29-2010, 08:10 PM

Fixing to go pick this up.

85 Chevy silverado

350 with a small cam
4x4
Automatic
4 inch lift
35'' tires

Anything to look out for on this truck? Weak links, anything? Its a chevy so I figure it will be in good shape.

Tklan Crawler · 08-29-2010, 08:21 PM

Only thing i would watch out for is f/r diffs breaking inner axles. I split a d44 3/4ton in half on my k5.

big bronco · 08-29-2010, 08:26 PM

the problem is its a chevy...

rugerboy · 08-29-2010, 08:29 PM

I have the same truck, same color, just 4" taller and a long bed. it should have a 10 bolt front and 12 bolt rear. Find your self a 14 bolt and Dana 44 out of a 3/4 ton. Other than that pretty stout trucks. Oh and is it a 700r4/np231? the 231 isn't the strongest in the world but work ok.

scoobydann · 08-29-2010, 08:47 PM

Look around the steering box area, around where the bolts go through the frame. typcally there should be hariline cracks. easily fixed. if you cant see the cracks have a buddy turn the wheel and look at the box. If it moves fix it. look at the area where the trans crossmember is. again if it was wheeled hard the frame might be pulled down or cracks too. typical rust is rocker panels and floorboards..pull the carpet up to see.

it should be a 700r4/208 not the strongest combo but decent. 700's are tricky and expensive (compared to a 350 or 400) to build if it goes out.

front axle shafts like to leave the vehicle if it is wheeled real hard but good for normal wheeling, same with rear.

if you ever find the need to replace motor mounts or trans mount, make sure the are the same ie: rubber/rubber ot poly/poly. If you mix them the trans adaptor takes the difference in twist and likes to crack. (went through 3 before i figured out the problem.)

I have built a few crawlers out of chevys and i think i have weeded out all the problems or at least know most of them. So dont hesitate to ask

rugerboy · 08-29-2010, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoobydann

Look around the steering box area, around where the bolts go through the frame. typcally there should be hariline cracks. easily fixed. if you cant see the cracks have a buddy turn the wheel and look at the box. If it moves fix it. look at the area where the trans crossmember is. again if it was wheeled hard the frame might be pulled down or cracks too. typical rust is rocker panels and floorboards..pull the carpet up to see.

it should be a 700r4/208 not the strongest combo but decent. 700's are tricky and expensive (compared to a 350 or 400) to build if it goes out.

front axle shafts like to leave the vehicle if it is wheeled real hard but good for normal wheeling, same with rear.

if you ever find the need to replace motor mounts or trans mount, make sure the are the same ie: rubber/rubber ot poly/poly. If you mix them the trans adaptor takes the difference in twist and likes to crack. (went through 3 before i figured out the problem.)

I have built a few crawlers out of chevys and i think i have weeded out all the problems or at least know most of them. So dont hesitate to ask

Oh yeah forgot all about the steering box ripping the frame apart. You can get a kit that welds in for around 90 bucks. Only takes a couple hours. If the truck hasn't been beat, you should be ok. If your gonna run 33's or taller I would order the kit. I had to do that to my short bed, haven't seen any cracks on my long bed....(knockin on wood)

Knarly Nerd · 08-30-2010, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tklan Crawler

Only thing i would watch out for is f/r diffs breaking inner axles. I split a d44 3/4ton in half on my k5.

I did the same thing to a '76 2500 with a 4 inch Rough Country lift and Gumbo Monster Mudders....rear axle.

Tklan Crawler · 08-30-2010, 03:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoobydann

Look around the steering box area, around where the bolts go through the frame. typcally there should be hariline cracks. easily fixed. if you cant see the cracks have a buddy turn the wheel and look at the box. If it moves fix it. look at the area where the trans crossmember is. again if it was wheeled hard the frame might be pulled down or cracks too.

Oh yea forgot about that also.I wrapped my frame with some plates where the steering box goes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailrotorblade

I did the same thing to a '76 2500 with a 4 inch Rough Country lift and Gumbo Monster Mudders....rear axle.

Oh yea i was running 8" leafsprings wit custom lift mounts and etc.... Im running 44 boggers. BUt now i have a dana 60

and soon to break anything.

country_crawler · 08-30-2010, 03:40 PM

Thanks guys. I have around a $1200 budget on this thing. Dad said I should look at some 3/4 tons. Problem is though this is one is already lifted and has 35's thats all I need. The 3/4 ton would need to be lifted and a set of tires put on it because most around here are all stock. Truck has no title, which is a little fishy, driver side seat is tore kinda bad, and the dash has some cracks and the bumper is bent. One little rust spot and the body is all straight. That was the owners words. I'm gonna arrange a time so I can go look at it cause it seems okay for what i'll be doing with it.

jcboof · 08-30-2010, 03:44 PM

how much is he asking for it??? Seems like a pretty solid truck. I'd probably pay around 3000 If the interior isn't too ratted out and everything else is solid.

canadianbacon · 08-30-2010, 03:44 PM

If you're not wheeling hard or getting into binds then those axles should last, but if I was you I'd go look for some 3/4 or 1 tons and keep them on standby if the need or want arise to put them in.

Tamiya Freak · 08-30-2010, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by country_crawler

Thanks guys. I have around a $1200 budget on this thing. Dad said I should look at some 3/4 tons. Problem is though this is one is already lifted and has 35's thats all I need. The 3/4 ton would need to be lifted and a set of tires put on it because most around here are all stock. Truck has no title, which is a little fishy, driver side seat is tore kinda bad, and the dash has some cracks and the bumper is bent. One little rust spot and the body is all straight. That was the owners words. I'm gonna arrange a time so I can go look at it cause it seems okay for what i'll be doing with it.

I would never buy anything without a title

country_crawler · 08-30-2010, 07:28 PM

Yeah its pretty much I think HOT!!!! The pictures he sent me today its covered in mud, the nice mint condition front bumper is bent to hell and back and now its got a "rod knocking and I may not want it" also gave me a lousy excuse why it didn't have a title.

shelby · 08-30-2010, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by country_crawler

Yeah its pretty much I think HOT!!!! The pictures he sent me today its covered in mud, the nice mint condition front bumper is bent to hell and back and now its got a "rod knocking and I may not want it" also gave me a lousy excuse why it didn't have a title.

A rod nockiing eh? well it is a chevy no suprise there

country_crawler · 08-30-2010, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcboof

how much is he asking for it??? Seems like a pretty solid truck. I'd probably pay around 3000 If the interior isn't too ratted out and everything else is solid.

3000?!?!?!?!?!

He's aking 1500 obo. 3/4 Chevy's lifted with nice wheels and tires in mint condition, go for around $2500-$2800.

canadianbacon · 08-30-2010, 07:40 PM

If you really want it, make him pay to get a new title for the truck.

08-29-2010, 08:10 PM	#1
country_crawler RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Rock Bouncin' with the Patented Technique Posts: 1,374	1985 Chevy Silverado Fixing to go pick this up. 85 Chevy silverado 350 with a small cam 4x4 Automatic 4 inch lift 35'' tires Anything to look out for on this truck? Weak links, anything? Its a chevy so I figure it will be in good shape.

08-29-2010, 08:21 PM	#2
Tklan Crawler Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: San Gabriel, Crawlerfornia. Posts: 507	Only thing i would watch out for is f/r diffs breaking inner axles. I split a d44 3/4ton in half on my k5.

08-29-2010, 08:26 PM	#3
big bronco Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: babylon, long island ny Posts: 887	the problem is its a chevy...

08-29-2010, 08:29 PM	#4
rugerboy Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Citrus Heights Posts: 207	I have the same truck, same color, just 4" taller and a long bed. it should have a 10 bolt front and 12 bolt rear. Find your self a 14 bolt and Dana 44 out of a 3/4 ton. Other than that pretty stout trucks. Oh and is it a 700r4/np231? the 231 isn't the strongest in the world but work ok.

08-29-2010, 08:47 PM	#5
scoobydann Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: El Paso Posts: 57	Look around the steering box area, around where the bolts go through the frame. typcally there should be hariline cracks. easily fixed. if you cant see the cracks have a buddy turn the wheel and look at the box. If it moves fix it. look at the area where the trans crossmember is. again if it was wheeled hard the frame might be pulled down or cracks too. typical rust is rocker panels and floorboards..pull the carpet up to see. it should be a 700r4/208 not the strongest combo but decent. 700's are tricky and expensive (compared to a 350 or 400) to build if it goes out. front axle shafts like to leave the vehicle if it is wheeled real hard but good for normal wheeling, same with rear. if you ever find the need to replace motor mounts or trans mount, make sure the are the same ie: rubber/rubber ot poly/poly. If you mix them the trans adaptor takes the difference in twist and likes to crack. (went through 3 before i figured out the problem.) I have built a few crawlers out of chevys and i think i have weeded out all the problems or at least know most of them. So dont hesitate to ask

08-30-2010, 03:40 PM	#9
country_crawler RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Rock Bouncin' with the Patented Technique Posts: 1,374	Thanks guys. I have around a $1200 budget on this thing. Dad said I should look at some 3/4 tons. Problem is though this is one is already lifted and has 35's thats all I need. The 3/4 ton would need to be lifted and a set of tires put on it because most around here are all stock. Truck has no title, which is a little fishy, driver side seat is tore kinda bad, and the dash has some cracks and the bumper is bent. One little rust spot and the body is all straight. That was the owners words. I'm gonna arrange a time so I can go look at it cause it seems okay for what i'll be doing with it.

08-30-2010, 03:44 PM	#10
jcboof I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: I miss Rowdy Posts: 2,238	how much is he asking for it??? Seems like a pretty solid truck. I'd probably pay around 3000 If the interior isn't too ratted out and everything else is solid.

08-30-2010, 03:44 PM	#11
canadianbacon RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Moncton, NB, Canada Posts: 1,962	If you're not wheeling hard or getting into binds then those axles should last, but if I was you I'd go look for some 3/4 or 1 tons and keep them on standby if the need or want arise to put them in.

08-30-2010, 07:28 PM	#13
country_crawler RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Rock Bouncin' with the Patented Technique Posts: 1,374	Yeah its pretty much I think HOT!!!! The pictures he sent me today its covered in mud, the nice mint condition front bumper is bent to hell and back and now its got a "rod knocking and I may not want it" also gave me a lousy excuse why it didn't have a title.

08-30-2010, 07:40 PM	#16
canadianbacon RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Moncton, NB, Canada Posts: 1,962	If you really want it, make him pay to get a new title for the truck.

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