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Old 04-15-2009, 08:39 PM   #41
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Well i already killed one of the metal input gears, i have been trying to get this rig to work, but i am about to give up, i finally put in the novak pinions, 12t in front and 11t rear, but now the stall in the front motor is to much, it's undriveable, i thought that these motors and esc would be the ticket, but i see my friends stock motors and rooster esc are much smoother than my c.c. i have no idea what else to do, please any ideas you guys might have, i am really dissapointed on the c.c. for all the time and money i have invested in it:-(

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Old 04-15-2009, 09:21 PM   #42
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What is all the clicking noise when it starts to turn? Is something binding? Does the axle spin free without the motor installed?
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:59 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by cartronicshn View Post
Well i already killed one of the metal input gears, i have been trying to get this rig to work, but i am about to give up, i finally put in the novak pinions, 12t in front and 11t rear, but now the stall in the front motor is to much, it's undriveable, i thought that these motors and esc would be the ticket, but i see my friends stock motors and rooster esc are much smoother than my c.c. i have no idea what else to do, please any ideas you guys might have, i am really dissapointed on the c.c. for all the time and money i have invested in it:-(
Try the super cheap banebots motors.
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS390-12
They rock, but make sure you give 'em at least 8 or nine cells to feed on. They're smooth and controllable, too.
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:26 AM   #44
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What is all the clicking noise when it starts to turn? Is something binding? Does the axle spin free without the motor installed?
No binding at all, the noise is just the pack rubbing on the tire when going forward, i just used this lipo pack to demonstrate that motors were getting full juice, it does the same with it's 2/3a packs:-(

Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus_nuc View Post
Try the super cheap banebots motors.
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS390-12
They rock, but make sure you give 'em at least 8 or nine cells to feed on. They're smooth and controllable, too.
I am not sure i wan't to go forward anymore with this rig, but thanks for your input
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:28 PM   #45
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have you to to john holmes about your problem?
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:21 PM   #46
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have you to to john holmes about your problem?
Not really his fault, i guess i was just expecting this rig to perform better with all that was invested in it.
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:36 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by cartronicshn View Post
i guess i was just expecting this rig to perform better with all that was invested in it.



cartronicshn, I have been at that spot for about 3 months now.
  • I think I have the chassis where I want it. Maybe better links.
  • I'm on the 2nd ESC. Mamba25 let the smoke out. Now a Superduty (overkill).
  • Metal spur and idler
  • beadlocks
  • Original tires trimmed. Still need better tires.
  • Hitec 645 servo
  • Dual DIG
And now I am dinking with motors. I have 8 on the bench. Have rewound 4 of them myself. Now have Banebot 390's on order. It's that feeling that you know it's not going to be a great rig anyway, so why keep dumping time and money into it.
Even if these motors work, I will need steel main gears and at least front CVDs to keep it alive. Then will come tires, longer shocks, better links, and better batteries. Not to mention trialling an 9 or 10T pinion from an obscure shop, made out of brass to see if it might, just might hit a sweet spot between speed, contorl and torque and live against the steel spur.

This is definetely my "spare time, dink with it" truck.
If it doesn't start to pan out soon, the electronics and wheels might get used somewhere else.

Done ranting. LOL
I'm going to go play with my TLT based crawler now to let the steam off.
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Old 04-17-2009, 01:02 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by cartronicshn View Post
Not really his fault, i guess i was just expecting this rig to perform better with all that was invested in it.


yeah but he might be able to help. it looks like it's bound up in the battery side axle. so it clod stalls, then has you throttle up it jumps forward.. and if there both free rolling and it's simple motor/esc he might have some ideas
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:59 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweli View Post



cartronicshn, I have been at that spot for about 3 months now.
  • I think I have the chassis where I want it. Maybe better links.
  • I'm on the 2nd ESC. Mamba25 let the smoke out. Now a Superduty (overkill).
  • Metal spur and idler
  • beadlocks
  • Original tires trimmed. Still need better tires.
  • Hitec 645 servo
  • Dual DIG
And now I am dinking with motors. I have 8 on the bench. Have rewound 4 of them myself. Now have Banebot 390's on order. It's that feeling that you know it's not going to be a great rig anyway, so why keep dumping time and money into it.
Even if these motors work, I will need steel main gears and at least front CVDs to keep it alive. Then will come tires, longer shocks, better links, and better batteries. Not to mention trialling an 9 or 10T pinion from an obscure shop, made out of brass to see if it might, just might hit a sweet spot between speed, contorl and torque and live against the steel spur.

This is definetely my "spare time, dink with it" truck.
If it doesn't start to pan out soon, the electronics and wheels might get used somewhere else.

Done ranting. LOL
I'm going to go play with my TLT based crawler now to let the steam off.
I hear you lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by execelon View Post
yeah but he might be able to help. it looks like it's bound up in the battery side axle. so it clod stalls, then has you throttle up it jumps forward.. and if there both free rolling and it's simple motor/esc he might have some ideas
Quote:
Originally Posted by cartronicshn View Post
No binding at all, the noise is just the pack rubbing on the tire when going forward, i just used this lipo pack to demonstrate that motors were getting full juice, it does the same with it's 2/3a packs:-(


I am not sure i wan't to go forward anymore with this rig, but thanks for your input
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Old 04-17-2009, 07:35 PM   #50
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someone explain what stall is?
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Old 04-17-2009, 10:17 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by traxxas4fun View Post
someone explain what stall is?
basically when one axle is running and the other isn't
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Old 04-20-2009, 10:21 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by cartronicshn View Post
Well i already killed one of the metal input gears, i have been trying to get this rig to work, but i am about to give up, i finally put in the novak pinions, 12t in front and 11t rear, but now the stall in the front motor is to much, it's undriveable, i thought that these motors and esc would be the ticket, but i see my friends stock motors and rooster esc are much smoother than my c.c. i have no idea what else to do, please any ideas you guys might have, i am really dissapointed on the c.c. for all the time and money i have invested in it:-(

I ran mine this weekend for about 3 batt packs and I see almost NO stall (with the 454's) even on very agressive climbs and when I pull up to straight up inclines where the front is under heavy load. I am running 12f 11r (I think) as well. I am using a Novak esc and 2/3A 5-cell battery. I have tons of power and wheel speed.
Your motors are wired in parallel and not series correct?
J
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Old 04-20-2009, 10:23 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by traxxas4fun View Post
someone explain what stall is?
The power wants to flow through the path of least resistance. If the rear has all the load and the front is in the air it will direct the power to the front motor causing the rear motor to have limited power.
J
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:13 AM   #54
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whens it going to be for sale?

Last edited by execelon; 04-20-2009 at 11:13 AM. Reason: .
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:45 AM   #55
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Sorry dude, i hardly ever sell any of my rigs, i will probably just put the stock motors in and have my kid play with it and his losi mrc
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:36 AM   #56
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well my kid didn't like this rig, he rather have my fj 40 cr-01 , so i am stuck with this rig ( and "the other one" i bought because it was so cheap i couldn't resist) and i decided to try another esc, so i bought another sidewinder and i still get the annoying stall at start up, i will try and load a video later, i am thinking on looking over these motors, maybe i am getting brushed getting hunged or something like that:?.



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Old 07-14-2009, 11:29 PM   #57
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i have had my cc for about 6 months now and have done some SERIOUS modding to it.

first thing, locked out the rear steer

2nd, scrapped the cruddy rtr electronics

3rd installed a Trx Evx, yes 16.8v

got the banebots motors (the rs390s)
they are about 1mm longer than the 454s and with 16.8v, a little more torque.

so much torque, i snapped the rear axle within minutes of installing my Hotbodies Rover tires {glued :O} (i already ahve all metal gears, and stock pinions, as the banebots motors have the same shaft diameter as the cc5000s (the stockers)

the evx also allows VERY smooth throttle, even with almost no throttle, there is no jitter at all, which is amazing because the evx jitters all by itself under the lightest of throttle.

more mods: i made bent links for the rear out of 6/32 allthread and 1/4 in brakeline.

i also added Traxxas tie rods from my old emaxx (the front ones go up top, and the rear ones go on the bottom, with the stock CC chassis

i also added the 4 shocks from my old emaxx with the springs removed

result: 90+ degrees of articulation( which i intend on limiting) and 13.5" of wheelbase(yes that just happens to be the same as the NEW emaxx

and running in Droop

front steering servo is a 2075 atm with the stock, old emaxx servo saver on it, just because i had it lying around and it works well enough. i put the servo link on the inside hole on the steering knuckle and put the connecting link( the one that goes to both knuckles) on the bottom of the knuckles in the outer holes. this achieves full lock steering ( the knuckles touch the axle body now, no need for a longer servo arm or a solid servo arm for that matter.)


Batteries: turnigy 2200mah 20c 2s lipos, x2, same size as 2/3a nimh 6-cell packs, with more runtime and 5x the amps and 4x the charge speed (you can charge them at 2c (4.4A) and discharge them at 44A sustained. (if you try that with 2/3 a cells you will be in for a smoky surprise)

i attempted to charge a 2/3a 6-cell pack at 4A. it actually blew up (vented) the Turnigy (found at www.hobbycity.com) won't even warm up
(no i do not work for Turnigy or Hobbyking)

and besides, the lipos are $12 each +shipping, while EP 2/3A packs are $30 each and are inferior in all regards.


i also have a 2s novak smartstop LVC, hooked up to the BEC side of the EVX (read: when you hook a battery up with the switch turned on, the steering works, but not the throttle. if you hook it up to the other side, nothing happens at all) to protect the lipos from dangerous overdischarge.

i weighted the front wheels with 8 oz total lead strips and solder (yes, solder. al you have to do is wrap it around and then put your foam over and glue/beadlock them on) and nothing in the rear, as the battery is just enough to keep the tires on the ground when it is needed, the truck is over the wheels when it is not.

clod stall is not a huge issue, as i can use it as a crude DIG. i am not a comp guy, so i don't care that much about the rules of competition (nor do i actually know what they are, other than some 1.9 rules state you can't have MOA, just shafties) the banebots motors solved this issue with the stock tires, but the new tires made it reappear, but to a slightly lesser degree.

Last edited by mattio79; 07-14-2009 at 11:36 PM. Reason: spelling and grammar
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:50 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattio79 View Post
i have had my cc for about 6 months now and have done some SERIOUS modding to it.

first thing, locked out the rear steer

2nd, scrapped the cruddy rtr electronics

3rd installed a Trx Evx, yes 16.8v

got the banebots motors (the rs390s)
they are about 1mm longer than the 454s and with 16.8v, a little more torque.

so much torque, i snapped the rear axle within minutes of installing my Hotbodies Rover tires {glued :O} (i already ahve all metal gears, and stock pinions, as the banebots motors have the same shaft diameter as the cc5000s (the stockers)

the evx also allows VERY smooth throttle, even with almost no throttle, there is no jitter at all, which is amazing because the evx jitters all by itself under the lightest of throttle.

more mods: i made bent links for the rear out of 6/32 allthread and 1/4 in brakeline.

i also added Traxxas tie rods from my old emaxx (the front ones go up top, and the rear ones go on the bottom, with the stock CC chassis

i also added the 4 shocks from my old emaxx with the springs removed

result: 90+ degrees of articulation( which i intend on limiting) and 13.5" of wheelbase(yes that just happens to be the same as the NEW emaxx

and running in Droop

front steering servo is a 2075 atm with the stock, old emaxx servo saver on it, just because i had it lying around and it works well enough. i put the servo link on the inside hole on the steering knuckle and put the connecting link( the one that goes to both knuckles) on the bottom of the knuckles in the outer holes. this achieves full lock steering ( the knuckles touch the axle body now, no need for a longer servo arm or a solid servo arm for that matter.)


Batteries: turnigy 2200mah 20c 2s lipos, x2, same size as 2/3a nimh 6-cell packs, with more runtime and 5x the amps and 4x the charge speed (you can charge them at 2c (4.4A) and discharge them at 44A sustained. (if you try that with 2/3 a cells you will be in for a smoky surprise)

i attempted to charge a 2/3a 6-cell pack at 4A. it actually blew up (vented) the Turnigy (found at www.hobbycity.com) won't even warm up
(no i do not work for Turnigy or Hobbyking)

and besides, the lipos are $12 each +shipping, while EP 2/3A packs are $30 each and are inferior in all regards.


i also have a 2s novak smartstop LVC, hooked up to the BEC side of the EVX (read: when you hook a battery up with the switch turned on, the steering works, but not the throttle. if you hook it up to the other side, nothing happens at all) to protect the lipos from dangerous overdischarge.

i weighted the front wheels with 8 oz total lead strips and solder (yes, solder. al you have to do is wrap it around and then put your foam over and glue/beadlock them on) and nothing in the rear, as the battery is just enough to keep the tires on the ground when it is needed, the truck is over the wheels when it is not.

clod stall is not a huge issue, as i can use it as a crude DIG. i am not a comp guy, so i don't care that much about the rules of competition (nor do i actually know what they are, other than some 1.9 rules state you can't have MOA, just shafties) the banebots motors solved this issue with the stock tires, but the new tires made it reappear, but to a slightly lesser degree.
..and your point is? you also invested a lot of money on truck that will snap an axle or the metal gears if you need the speed to get over an obstacle, but you have great low end response? I have comp rigs, several of them 2.2, super, 1.9 moa and shafty, this thread was made because i thought i could get my c.c. to an accepatable level of crawling ability, but so far i haven't gotten there, i will try some more mods in the weight department and if that doesn't get me where i want, then i will just put it aside and move to my next project.
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