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Thread: free rear steer lock out

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Old 04-16-2009, 08:35 PM   #1
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Default free rear steer lock out

i locked out my rear steer by removing rear servo. after that i removed the mounting tray for the servo and turned it around 180 deg. and bolted the steering rod to the tab that sticks up off the tray and aligned the wheels straight. then i drilled two holes to mount the tray back on the axle and cut off the extra plastic that stuck out that was not needed.
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Old 04-17-2009, 11:55 AM   #2
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could you post some pics soto see how you have it set up???
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Old 04-17-2009, 10:37 PM   #3
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yea im taking it out tomrrow to bash it and ill put some pics up tomorrow night
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Old 04-18-2009, 12:23 AM   #4
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Another way to do a free rear-steer lockout is to start in R/C about 12, and average buying about 1 car or truck a year for the next 20 years, along with spare parts, hop-ups, and parts for custom mods. At that point you should have enough in your parts bins to do just about anything LOL
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Old 04-18-2009, 08:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DSteve View Post
Another way to do a free rear-steer lockout is to start in R/C about 12, and average buying about 1 car or truck a year for the next 20 years, along with spare parts, hop-ups, and parts for custom mods. At that point you should have enough in your parts bins to do just about anything LOL
Yeah, unless you brain fart like I did and sell everything and have to start over a few years later!
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Old 04-18-2009, 01:27 PM   #6
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Yeah, unless you brain fart like I did and sell everything and have to start over a few years later!
I've thought about that a few times, at least with select vehicles, but I decided it wasn't worth the relative pittance I could get for them, and I have never had enough radio gear for each car so I'd just be selling rolling chassis, which never go for much. For example, I wanted to sell my MRC MT10M since parts are likely scarce now, but the tranny alone is worth more to me than what I would get for the entire truck. I also never built the mega-buck hop-up machines, I'd rather buy two or three trucks than spend a lot on one, so stock vehicles aren't worth much either.

I have thought about unloading all my RC10 stuff, enough parts to build 2-3 full cars and/or trucks, but I'm still not sure.
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Old 04-18-2009, 03:06 PM   #7
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You dont have to turn the servo plate around and cut it, just take the top steering link that normally goes to the servo, twist it 90 Degrees so the screw will be Vertical and screw it into the mounting tab for the servo plate on the right side.
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Old 04-19-2009, 09:32 AM   #8
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but the rod ends on the steering link are already clocked 90 degs. apart from each other so if it is flipped 90 one end will have no where to bolt to.
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Old 04-19-2009, 10:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
I have thought about unloading all my RC10 stuff, enough parts to build 2-3 full cars and/or trucks, but I'm still not sure.
My RC10 stuff is what I regret selling the most! I would love to have them now to let my kids play with. Of course, I would have to play some, too! They were darn near indestructable.
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:53 AM   #10
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My take on a rear lockout, took a piece of aluminum, cut it so that I can pull the rear servo and drop the piece of aluminum in its place and bolt it in like a regular servo. I drilled a hole in the aluminum and mounted the rear linkage there, working on another plate that will have a servo horn bolted in nice and tight, give it the illusion of a rear servo. This way if I want the rear steering back, remove the plate, drop the servo back in and I am good to go.
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Old 04-24-2009, 09:27 AM   #11
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Actually if you wanted a real cheap way to do this, take an old busted servo, take the top off, fill it with epoxy or JB Weld, then put it back together. remove the wire and then you have a dummy servo locked. TaDa!!!!!
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Old 04-24-2009, 10:01 AM   #12
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thats a pretty good idea wish i had thought of that before but at least now im in spec with 2.2 class requirements
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:13 PM   #13
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thats a pretty good idea wish i had thought of that before but at least now im in spec with 2.2 class requirements
Just curious, Would either of these methods, the Aluminum plate bolted in place of the servo, or the dummy JB Welded / epoxy servo be accepted of not?
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:42 PM   #14
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I have never crawled in a comp, so this is strictly opinion, but I have done a lot of racing, and I think the dummy servo idea would cause more grief than it is worth just from constantly having to prove that it is indeed a dummy. I think for bashing or small club get-togethers, it is a great idea, though. For comps I would go with the aluminum plate idea.
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:06 AM   #15
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Just curious, Would either of these methods, the Aluminum plate bolted in place of the servo, or the dummy JB Welded / epoxy servo be accepted of not?
yes, as long as there is NO rear steering, doesn't matter how you get there...
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