|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
04-16-2009, 08:35 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Florissant
Posts: 26
| free rear steer lock out
i locked out my rear steer by removing rear servo. after that i removed the mounting tray for the servo and turned it around 180 deg. and bolted the steering rod to the tab that sticks up off the tray and aligned the wheels straight. then i drilled two holes to mount the tray back on the axle and cut off the extra plastic that stuck out that was not needed.
|
Sponsored Links | |
04-17-2009, 11:55 AM | #2 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Lake Charles
Posts: 1
|
could you post some pics soto see how you have it set up???
|
04-17-2009, 10:37 PM | #3 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Florissant
Posts: 26
|
yea im taking it out tomrrow to bash it and ill put some pics up tomorrow night
|
04-18-2009, 12:23 AM | #4 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Syracuse
Posts: 49
|
Another way to do a free rear-steer lockout is to start in R/C about 12, and average buying about 1 car or truck a year for the next 20 years, along with spare parts, hop-ups, and parts for custom mods. At that point you should have enough in your parts bins to do just about anything LOL
|
04-18-2009, 08:33 AM | #5 | ||
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
| Quote:
| ||
04-18-2009, 01:27 PM | #6 | |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Syracuse
Posts: 49
| Quote:
I have thought about unloading all my RC10 stuff, enough parts to build 2-3 full cars and/or trucks, but I'm still not sure. | |
04-18-2009, 03:06 PM | #7 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Marengo, Ohio
Posts: 980
|
You dont have to turn the servo plate around and cut it, just take the top steering link that normally goes to the servo, twist it 90 Degrees so the screw will be Vertical and screw it into the mounting tab for the servo plate on the right side.
|
04-19-2009, 09:32 AM | #8 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Florissant
Posts: 26
|
but the rod ends on the steering link are already clocked 90 degs. apart from each other so if it is flipped 90 one end will have no where to bolt to.
|
04-19-2009, 10:10 AM | #9 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
| Quote:
| |
04-24-2009, 08:53 AM | #10 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: North Port
Posts: 48
| My take on a rear lockout, took a piece of aluminum, cut it so that I can pull the rear servo and drop the piece of aluminum in its place and bolt it in like a regular servo. I drilled a hole in the aluminum and mounted the rear linkage there, working on another plate that will have a servo horn bolted in nice and tight, give it the illusion of a rear servo. This way if I want the rear steering back, remove the plate, drop the servo back in and I am good to go. |
04-24-2009, 09:27 AM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: North Port
Posts: 48
|
Actually if you wanted a real cheap way to do this, take an old busted servo, take the top off, fill it with epoxy or JB Weld, then put it back together. remove the wire and then you have a dummy servo locked. TaDa!!!!! |
04-24-2009, 10:01 AM | #12 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Florissant
Posts: 26
|
thats a pretty good idea wish i had thought of that before but at least now im in spec with 2.2 class requirements
|
04-24-2009, 01:13 PM | #13 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: North Port
Posts: 48
| |
04-24-2009, 01:42 PM | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
|
I have never crawled in a comp, so this is strictly opinion, but I have done a lot of racing, and I think the dummy servo idea would cause more grief than it is worth just from constantly having to prove that it is indeed a dummy. I think for bashing or small club get-togethers, it is a great idea, though. For comps I would go with the aluminum plate idea.
|
04-28-2009, 08:06 AM | #15 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: MUSE, PA
Posts: 1,273
| |
| |