Redoing the frame on the CC

[E4x4Eric]

Pics of my CC before I cut it up for mod

[E4x4Eric]

I don't want to call it the Pimp Cane because it is not. It just looks like it I guess. I just got bored and tried something different

[nuke24]

Nice, it is a amazing looking chassis. You need to post a video of it crawling. How much did it cost to make?(i may have to try my one)
I am in green with envy.

[E4x4Eric]

I got everything from Lowes for about $20 including the screws. It did a lot better than the stock DTX frame, but I am redoing everything again with ABS for more flex. I kept everything but the back bone. I replaced it with a base trim (1"1/2) from Lowes.

[nuke24]

Cool, thanks for the reply.
nuke24

[E4x4Eric]

The wheel base is 12.5" and it crawls 100 times better than stock, even the clod stall is not a big issue anymore with the stock DTX motor and esc. I need to rig up a drag brake and I need some taller tires. I did all of this for less than $20 bucks.
Note: I added 2 3/32 weld rods iside the base trim to keep the belly from sagging.

DTX RTR from Tower H.
Replaced all of the bushings with bearings.
Replaced the plastic output cups with steel cups and added O ring or fuel line iside the hubbs.
Replaced the rear motor leads with bigger wires and used the Dean plugs ( No difference noticed).
This is my first crawler and I am very pleased with it after the mod. I have never owned any other crawler to compare it with but it does extremely good. It almost crawl anything you point at it

[nuke24]

It is very cool, can you post a video of it crawling?

[fixed13]

Originally Posted by E4x4Eric

The wheel base is 12.5" and it crawls 100 times better than stock, even the clod stall is not a big issue anymore with the stock DTX motor and esc. I need to rig up a drag brake and I need some taller tires. I did all of this for less than $20 bucks.
Note: I added 2 3/32 weld rods iside the base trim to keep the belly from sagging.

DTX RTR from Tower H.
Replaced all of the bushings with bearings.
Replaced the plastic output cups with steel cups and added O ring or fuel line iside the hubbs.
Replaced the rear motor leads with bigger wires and used the Dean plugs ( No difference noticed).
This is my first crawler and I am very pleased with it after the mod. I have never owned any other crawler to compare it with but it does extremely good. It almost crawl anything you point at it

Nice looking setup, I have seen this done before and have been interested in it. Does the rod help with the limiting the articulation? (IMO you have to much, just my preference though).

[E4x4Eric]

Originally Posted by fixed13

Nice looking setup, I have seen this done before and have been interested in it. Does the rod help with the limiting the articulation? (IMO you have to much, just my preference though).

The rods doesn't affect the articulation because they rotate inside the trim. It flexes like crazy so that it looks like a mad worm when I wheel it. I don't know much about RC crawling but this thing is super fun to play with after the mod.

[fixed13]

Originally Posted by E4x4Eric

The rods doesn't affect the articulation because they rotate inside the trim. It flexes like crazy so that it looks like a mad worm when I wheel it. I don't know much about RC crawling but this thing is super fun to play with after the mod.

As you drive it and see how it reacts you may notice that one wheel or another will wedge into holes in the rock instead of flouting over the hole. If that happens you may want to think about limiting the articulation some. A general rule of thumb is if you have more than a popcan worth of articulation it will hurt more than help.

[E4x4Eric]

Originally Posted by nuke24

It is very cool, can you post a video of it crawling?

I don't know how to do the video thing yet :-(

[E4x4Eric]

Originally Posted by fixed13

As you drive it and see how it reacts you may notice that one wheel or another will wedge into holes in the rock instead of flouting over the hole. If that happens you may want to think about limiting the articulation some. A general rule of thumb is if you have more than a popcan worth of articulation it will hurt more than help.

Very interesting. I haven't done or seen any real comp crawling yet so I don't know, but the biggest problem I have at the moment is the weak steerings and axle clearance from the ground.

[fixed13]

Originally Posted by E4x4Eric

Very interesting. I haven't done or seen any real comp crawling yet so I don't know, but the biggest problem I have at the moment is the weak steerings and axle clearance from the ground.

If you have to much flex you will notice your rig droping wheels into holes, you don't need to be competative to see that. I bring it up because you will run a much greater chance of snaping driveline parts trying to work your way out.

Weak stearing can be solved with better servos, I use the Hytec HS645-MG, it is not the best but for the CC that I don't plan to comp it works just fine.

The only way to gain axle clearence is to go up to 2.2 wheels and tires (a stronger servo is a must if you do this).

Before I locked out my rear end I had the 645 up front and the stock servo in the rear and it worked well and saved a few bucks. When you do that you can get rid of the silly post in the rear linkage too because the servos rotate in opposite directions.

[nuke24]

Ok, well I hope you will post a video, you could always post it on YouTube and post a link on here to your video on YouTube.
Nuke24