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Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 48
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hey i finally am getting around to mounthing a new body on my cliff climber and i chose the clod buster. the main problem i found is that in order to allow the axels to fully articulate the body needs to sit pretty high and it looks odd. what i want to do is narrow the axels so the tires will go under the body and i can lower it to a more normal looking height. so if anyone has any ideas it would help alot. here it is from the side ![]() here it is to show how the tires are at full articulation ![]() ![]() thanks |
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![]() | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Naoma, WV
Posts: 1,479
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I'll be using my CC axles for my clodbuster(K5 Blazer) scaler. You can swap to ax10 stub shafts and shorter hexes to narrow it up. The problem is you will have clearance issues with the links and shocks. I haven't figured out a way around this yet either. I'm only running 1.9s on mine though so it will be easier.
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![]() | #3 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 48
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so is the issue with the clearance horizontally between the tire are the shocks and links? and if i switched back to the stock shocks would that help? i think ill try to switch to 1.9's they will probably look better with this truck anyway. also where can i find the stubb axels? Last edited by furiousgeorge; 08-09-2009 at 12:25 PM. |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: kalkaska Michigan
Posts: 86
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so how did you make the frame cnc or hand cut, and what metels, and thickness
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![]() | #5 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Californ-i-a
Posts: 70
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Changing the axles isn't really required. You can use something like Tamiya hexes with a bunch of spacers =P That is what I am using right now. Here is a picture with 1.9's. I am also using hex rpm spacers because the wheels rub on my current setup. ![]() |
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![]() | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 48
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Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 48
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now you tell me! i just ordered the new axels. i had a gift card for my LHS and i needed to spend it on something so it all works out in the end. id like to see some more pics of your rig if you got em. | |
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![]() | #8 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Californ-i-a
Posts: 70
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One thing I forgot to say was that the axles stick out pretty far, meaning it will look funky. But with a deep offset wheel it shouldn't be too bad. If you want it to look clean then you are better off with shorter axles ![]() My pic was just to show how narrow it can be with 1.9's and a Clod body. It is not mounted and the wheelbase comes up short. Here is a quick mock-up and how my CC is currently sitting: ![]() ![]() |
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: St. Cloud
Posts: 632
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Fobby, doesn't look like you have moved any on that build, keep going I want to see that bug running and painted. ![]() |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Californ-i-a
Posts: 70
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Yeah, I need to stop being lazy. Heck, I have an unpainted bronco sitting on my clod (not the one pictured) for over 2 years now! furiousgeorge, you need 1.9's and drop the body. That will be sharp! I am a firm believer in 1.9's for 1/10 scale use. |
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![]() | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 48
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yeah dude for sure. i have some 1.9 beadlocks and tires on the way, plus i ordered the shorter axels. i really want the body to be able to be lower because it really looks stupid right now.
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