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Old 03-26-2010, 06:59 PM   #1
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Default what does it need?

started looking through, but figured i'd ask. Just bought a cc and am looking for a top 10 sort of mod list. Also anybody run 1.9's ? Dont wanna go crazy, already have way too much$ in rc. So far it seems metal gears are #1. someone with the climber knowledge can whip a response up quicker than me shovel through the forum. thanks- ben
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:03 PM   #2
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i love a top 10 too. it would be great to hear from the guru's of the Cliff Climber.
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:05 PM   #3
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also where to get cc parts
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:46 PM   #4
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i have a custom cliffy i think i totaled it today but not alot of bolt on parts. i have made alot of mine. one thing you must get longer chassis the chassis restricts it so much oh and longer shocks like 180mm or something i know they are big but they work. i wouldnt get bigger size tires but not smaller if any thing bigger but more grip on stock tires i melt baloons around the tires helps alot
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:36 AM   #5
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Stretching the wheelbase is one of the best upgrades you can do. Either make longer links or a longer chassis. A stronger steering servo makes a big difference with metal steering links. I lke the metal wheel hexes they fit the wheels alot better.
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Old 03-27-2010, 10:50 AM   #6
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has anyone tried the upgraded motors if so how are they
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:18 PM   #7
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1. Metal Gears,
2. Ball Bearings
3. shave the axle housings
4. stretch it to 12" (I used longer links and some custom shock mounts - the stock chassis is fine just needs some tweaking),
5. Better tires
6. better shocks (I still use stockers but I have replacements already - the lower caps keep popping off, bad design)
7. 9T pinions (.6 mod)
8. Better electronics (only if you got RTR - otherwise just a better servo)
9. Banebots 395's, or Tamiya RS380SH's or GWS EP400's
10. now you'll need steel out drives
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:36 PM   #8
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I would put having offset pinions, 12-front and 11-rear in my case, towards the top of the list. I never tried any of the 9 or 10 tooth pinions but the offset pinions made a huge difference in clodstall to me.
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:08 AM   #9
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i appreciate the responses.
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:08 AM   #10
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Stock, at least mine, performed better on the rocks drooped
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockfrog View Post
1. Metal Gears,
2. Ball Bearings
3. shave the axle housings
4. stretch it to 12" (I used longer links and some custom shock mounts - the stock chassis is fine just needs some tweaking),
5. Better tires
6. better shocks (I still use stockers but I have replacements already - the lower caps keep popping off, bad design)
7. 9T pinions (.6 mod)
8. Better electronics (only if you got RTR - otherwise just a better servo)
9. Banebots 395's, or Tamiya RS380SH's or GWS EP400's
10. now you'll need steel out drives

this post should be sticky......
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:03 PM   #12
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yea just drooped mine today but letting all batteries charge up then goin and trying it

for me the drooped thing didnt really work hindered me on some of the tuffer lines

Last edited by crawlinnTN; 04-01-2010 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 04-02-2010, 03:34 PM   #13
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Default My modification list

Necessary mods:
1. Clock the axles
2. Remove all flex so the rear steering works (or remove it)
3. Do something to stop the drive shafts to slip in the axles (to short)

Optional:
4. Stretch the wheelbase
5. Change bushings to bearings
6. Get a better gear ratio

And this I my own opinion, most people here just talk about other motors, why? If you really want to crawl - do something to reduce speed instead! CC it’s too fast for serious crawling even with stock motors - why make it worse?
Think more torque, but without any more speed, because the other big problem is that rear motor stall.
But with a better total gear ratio both problems are gone.

I added an extra gearbox on each motor.
These gearboxes with 1.7:1 ratio gives the CC the speed and crawler capability that it needs, and clod stall is completely gone!

Now the total ratio is up from stock 28:1 to 47:1 (as AX-10 Scorpion has)
To compare with the 10T discussions theese gearboxes would be equivalent to between a 6T and 7T!
The rear axle has torque enough to spin until it is tipping over!
Full throttle is no longer necessary; the power is available from the lowest possible speed.
And don’t waste money on metal gears until you manage to break one of your plastic gears – all mine still stands against the almost doubled torque they get!

Read more in my built thread.
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Old 04-25-2010, 08:28 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockfrog View Post
1. Metal Gears,
2. Ball Bearings
3. shave the axle housings
4. stretch it to 12" (I used longer links and some custom shock mounts - the stock chassis is fine just needs some tweaking),
5. Better tires
6. better shocks (I still use stockers but I have replacements already - the lower caps keep popping off, bad design)
7. 9T pinions (.6 mod)
8. Better electronics (only if you got RTR - otherwise just a better servo)
9. Banebots 395's, or Tamiya RS380SH's or GWS EP400's
10. now you'll need steel out drives

^exactly. also when you change your tires, *rc4wd rock rippers* wheels. the offset will keep the tires from rubbing the links.
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:34 PM   #15
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Nitrous and an extinguisher!
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:49 PM   #16
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dont forget a weiand blower,12in slicks, and a roll cage
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:53 PM   #17
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When stretching the wheelbase to 12 how long do you need to make the links? I just bought a used CC and I want to stretch it but I never did this type of mod before.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:00 PM   #18
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dude i picked up some axail scx10 stock links for like 50 cents for 4 and work awesome
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:10 PM   #19
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How long did they make your WB?
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:37 PM   #20
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not sure tore apart for new chassis, but i think maybe 11 or 11.5
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