Anyone hate soldering as much as I do?

[NICKC]

Im going to hijack this thread...thanks.

Im a total moron when it comes to soldering. If you use a 60/40 solder do you need flux? Im wondering if that might be part of my problem (not using flux).

thanks...

[Desolas]

Flux always helps, never hurts. If your using 60/40 rosin core solder, most of the time you do not need to use flux but on larger wire, battery bars, or something that just doesn't want to take solder it can help.

Biggest issue I see with people who solder is they use irons that suck. Generic stick irons with a small tip even though they say they are 60W are generally garbage. Even a high dollar iron with a small tip is a pain to work with.

The only cheap iron that works is the Weller SP40L, it's a huge tipped iron (1/4" chisel) but it gets hot and keeps the tip hot. It's good for battery bars and larger connections, hard to do detail work with...but it's only $25.

I solder every day, I love to solder. Easiest thing you can do if you want to get better at soldering is buy a better iron. Get a Hakko soldering station...or something similar. Ask your local hobby dealer that can buy from HRP Distributors (they sell Hakko) and you can get a good iron for less than $100. The 937 with a 908 wand is an excellent iron.

[Szczerba]

Looks like it's back to radio shack to see what solder irons they have.

I put a voltmeter on the two +/- wires between the ESC and parallel wire setup. I'm using a 8.4v battery and when I hit the throttle it gets to ~8v on the meter. I was just trying to see if these connectors were restricting the setup. This seem logical?

Thanks for all the help in the previous posts.

[CeeBlock]

10 easy steps to a great solder connection EVERY time......

what I do....... and how i get perfect solders every time......

1) heat up your iron.
2) strip your wire
3) "tinning your iron" once your iron is hot. touch it with the tip of your solder and wipe it off with a damp paper towel.
4) heat up your wire wear your going to solder it to whatever(motor,battery,esc)
5) once hot add solder to wire, with the iron on one side of the wire and the solder drawing through the wire.
6) heat your connector,motor tab,esc,battery whatever. add a little solder to that side of the connection.

you now have both of the pieces with a small amount of solder on them, clean and ready to be joined.....

7) wipe your iron tip quickly.
8 )heat the solder on the connector side of your connection.
9)bring the wire down to the heated connector with the iron heating the wire as well until both join. add a small dab of solder to the joined connection
10) HOLD the connection together while it cools. once cool give a little tug to make sure its nice, and youre done son!

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by frdtrkguy

Although, Ive never heard of anyone crimping them, JRH

I have a crimper specially made for sermos connectors. It doesn't save a huge amount of time, but getting a proper solder joint can be a pain with the sermos plugs. I like to pretin everything, but if I do that with the sermos pin I can't get the wire inside. It leaves a cold joint to chance since if is impossible to see inside the joint. A good crimp has the same electrical connection as soldering, but there must be proper surface area contact between the mating materials.

[freetimecrawler]

Originally Posted by Shane_744

Looks like it's back to radio shack to see what solder irons they have.

I put a voltmeter on the two +/- wires between the ESC and parallel wire setup. I'm using a 8.4v battery and when I hit the throttle it gets to ~8v on the meter. I was just trying to see if these connectors were restricting the setup. This seem logical?

Thanks for all the help in the previous posts.

Radio Shack has a nice soldering station with adjustable temps, with digital readout for like $65. Well worth it IMO.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by freetimecrawler

Radio Shack has a nice soldering station with adjustable temps, with digital readout for like $65. Well worth it IMO.

Thanks. I'll check it out tomorrow.

This seem correct? vvvvvvvvvv

"I put a voltmeter on the two +/- wire connectors between the ESC and parallel wire setup. I'm using a 8.4v battery and when I hit the throttle it gets to ~8v on the meter. I was just trying to see if these connectors were restricting the setup. This seem logical?"

[FiveSevenFive]

Originally Posted by Desolas

The only cheap iron that works is the Weller SP40L, it's a huge tipped iron (1/4" chisel) but it gets hot and keeps the tip hot. It's good for battery bars and larger connections, hard to do detail work with...but it's only $25.

I second that. i have a SP40L an have had it for a few years. works pretty dang good. Shiny an smooth connections every time.
An for detail work i took my dremel an ground an old tip down to a point. works great. Cheap to. lol

[frdtrkguy]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I have a crimper specially made for sermos connectors. It doesn't save a huge amount of time, but getting a proper solder joint can be a pain with the sermos plugs. I like to pretin everything, but if I do that with the sermos pin I can't get the wire inside. It leaves a cold joint to chance since if is impossible to see inside the joint. A good crimp has the same electrical connection as soldering, but there must be proper surface area contact between the mating materials.

The Sermos have served me well the only problem is when it comes to 12 ga. wire. i usually sererate 3 of the wire strand groups and cut em off, pre tin the wire and connector spade then heat it all up and put em together, add solder/heat as needed. Kind of an art I guess. Where did you get the crimper?

[NICKC]

Originally Posted by freetimecrawler

Radio Shack has a nice soldering station with adjustable temps, with digital readout for like $65. Well worth it IMO.

my Radio Shack doesn't have those... :-(

I'm assuming this is the station? http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Next time I'm visiting my fiance's parents Ill have to stop in and get one, their local R.S. lists them.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by NICKC

my Radio Shack doesn't have those... :-(

I'm assuming this is the station? http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Next time I'm visiting my fiance's parents Ill have to stop in and get one, their local R.S. lists them.

Did you read the reviews on that station? Looks like a $49.99 waste of money. IMO.

[af_juicy]

There is one thing that no one has made a mention of when soldering. You should sand down you spots to joint like tabs and plugs. The rough surface will make for better fusion of the bond.

[FiveSevenFive]

Originally Posted by af_juicy

There is one thing that no one has made a mention of when soldering. You should sand down you spots to joint like tabs and plugs. The rough surface will make for better fusion of the bond.

I just take a razorblade an etche the the surface that im soldering to.
works great

[Norcal crawler]

I hope this helps. This is how i learned to solder deans plugs. It is very easy and if you follow this how-to they will come out great. I use the most crappy soldering iron ever, you have to use one side because the other is so clogged up with crap it wont get hot enough to melt the solder. And even with that, the plug came out pretty good.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/s...d.php?t=223908

[helhedded]

Still having trouble, brah?

[Ty@Tekin]

Nope, love soldering. With a good iron, 60/40 solder and some patience to learn, it's very easy to solder clean joints. Just keep practicing and you'll get better at it.

[frdtrkguy]

Originally Posted by helhedded

Still having trouble, brah?

Stalking today aren't you?

[Shinjari]

and whats with these zombie threads? 2008? seriously?

[Szczerba]

Naw, I'm good now. Thanks for asking though!

[el_Fernando]

Holy dead thread revival Batman!

I have a killer Hakko soldering station and I still suck :( My soldering jobs look like gobs of chewed up gum!