True dig with dual ESCs question

[constantmotion]

Originally Posted by bbyrd22

I am running a berg with dual ESC's. I have it set up where throttle and rudder our my front and rear. Rudder (front), Throttle (rear). I have it mixed to where left rudder, front axle spins for the "dig", or what is considered dig for the radio.

I want to have "true dig" to kill the motor as you can with the wiring setup on the dx3r. I have my micro switch and micro servo installed, but not sure how to go about with a single switch setup. My motor are both wired to each speed control and are not connected to each other. My ESC's are wired to one single deans plug for the battery connection.

I have the micro switch on the gear channel of the radio (DX6i) and have the endpoints set that the servo will activate the switch.

I am lost on the wiring for this setup. Is it possible?

I am wondering about this too....BByrd22 hasn't got an answer about this. Just figured that I would help us both out.

[Grizzly4x4]

I believe this is what you want to do.

When the switch is not activated the ESC will power the motor normally by passing current through the common (C) and normally closed (NC) poles of the switch.

When the switch is activated, the poles between common (C) and normally open (NO) are connected and the motor is dead shorted, giving you the brake effect. The NC pole, and therefore ESC power, is removed from the loop.

The front ESC will be unaffected and operate normally.

[constantmotion]

Thanks Griz. I have really never understood the NO, NC, and C. This explains it a lot better.

[TwistedCreations]

Well how many threads are you going to have on this?

Dual ESCs and a Berg


1st problem is the old motors. They do not hold as well as newer/clean motors.
2nd is the gearing. The lower, the better. Also set your mesh in the rear a tad tighter.
3rd, why have 2 esc's? If your wanting to add the radio shack switch, do away with the 2nd esc then.

I used to ran dual MM's and it was more headache then anything. Yes all my throttle was on the left gimbal and the steering was on the right gimbal.

I have now run 1 mamba max and F&R dig on my truck for the past year, if not more, with no problems at all. I use channel 5 and 6, the 2 switches up top, to activate my dig. Much simpler than trying to hold the throttle some here and there and then flip switches also. Takes too much of your concentration of thinking where your hands are, rather than where your tires are

[bbyrd22]

As many as it takes. I revived his original post with a more in depth question.

Originally Posted by TwistedCreations

Well how many threads are you going to have on this?

Dual ESCs and a Berg


1st problem is the old motors. They do not hold as well as newer/clean motors.
2nd is the gearing. The lower, the better. Also set your mesh in the rear a tad tighter.
3rd, why have 2 esc's? If your wanting to add the radio shack switch, do away with the 2nd esc then.

I used to ran dual MM's and it was more headache then anything. Yes all my throttle was on the left gimbal and the steering was on the right gimbal.

I have now run 1 mamba max and F&R dig on my truck for the past year, if not more, with no problems at all. I use channel 5 and 6, the 2 switches up top, to activate my dig. Much simpler than trying to hold the throttle some here and there and then flip switches also. Takes too much of your concentration of thinking where your hands are, rather than where your tires are

[One-eyed Jack]

Originally Posted by constantmotion

I am wondering about this too....BByrd22 hasn't got an answer about this. Just figured that I would help us both out.

You can run dual esc and have front/rear dig without using switches or servos. Got your attention yet? This is with a three channel pistol radio.

[tuner]

Originally Posted by One-eyed Jack

You can run dual esc and have front/rear dig without using switches or servos. Got your attention yet? This is with a three channel pistol radio.

Got my attention. Im trying to eliminate clod stall. I have a berg with the dig switches 45t motors 13t pinions sidewinder and a dx3r. I have another sidewinder to use to fix this. Could you please explain how you did this.

[One-eyed Jack]

Originally Posted by gs tunner

Got my attention. Im trying to eliminate clod stall. I have a berg with the dig switches 45t motors 13t pinions sidewinder and a dx3r. I have another sidewinder to use to fix this. Could you please explain how you did this.

I am using a Futaba 3PK. This radio has three switches whose function is assignable. It also has programable mixing. Wire your rear speed control/or plug it into the 3rd channel slot. Program mix 1= assign throttle as the master/and channel 3 as the slave. You must program your speed controls separately first as if you had only one. power it up by itself and program the front motor esc,then do the rear motor esc. Use the throttle slot in the receiver for each one separately. Then plug the front esc into the throttle slot and the rear esc into the 3rd channel slot. I set my switches for alternate for the front dig,meaning I push the switch once and it will turn "OFF" program mix 1. This will kill the output of the third channel and you have front dig. I don't have a problem with the wheels turning with a dig duration of 10-15 seconds. The switch I am using is designated PS-1 on my radio. It is set on Alternate. Once is on,once more is off. Next I set switch 3 which is in the handle to normal, you have to hold this switch. Hold in is on,let it go is off. This is set up to turn program mix 2 on and off. PMIX 2 is set with the steering as the master and channel 3 as the slave. When you turn left or right and hold switch three it will turn on channel three only which is the esc for the rear motor. You can set the epa at any value from -100 to +100. You will have to experiment with the + and - to get the rotation of the rear motor right. With this setup you can run the rear motor at a speed slightly less than the front and it will make your turn radius slightly less than if they both turn at the same speed. I also use a DX3R but I have not experimented with it to see if I could do the same. The rear dig will only work if the steering is turned left or right and the amount of wheel spin will be in proportion to the amount of steering input. No throttle input is required. If you apply throttle the front esc will come on and cancel you dig. This is neat as hell and does not require switches and or servos. Dig will turn on and off on the fly up or down a hill under a load or not. I wish I could show a video but I don't have a star.

[bbyrd22]

Originally Posted by One-eyed Jack

You can run dual esc and have front/rear dig without using switches or servos. Got your attention yet? This is with a three channel pistol radio.

I don't think some of you get it. There are people out there who like running the sticks. We know it's possible to have dig with pistols.

I tried the wiring posted by Grizz. I must have wired it wrong, smoked my second switch. Not sure what I did wrong. Still working out the wiring.

Electrical + bbyrd22 = .

[One-eyed Jack]

Originally Posted by bbyrd22

I don't think some of you get it. There are people out there who like running the sticks. We know it's possible to have dig with pistols.

I tried the wiring posted by Grizz. I must have wired it wrong, smoked my second switch. Not sure what I did wrong. Still working out the wiring.

Electrical + bbyrd22 = .

Don't get your panties in a knot. This is not pistol versus stick. It is a viable way to get front and rear dig with a pistol or a stick without the wiring of switches and using servos. There will be no wiring fu to contend with. If it can be drawn "I" can hook it up right. Most of these guys can not. Use the computer in your radio to your advantage. I "DO" GET IT. Open your mind to alternative methods.

[One-eyed Jack]

Originally Posted by gs tunner

Got my attention. Im trying to eliminate clod stall. I have a berg with the dig switches 45t motors 13t pinions sidewinder and a dx3r. I have another sidewinder to use to fix this. Could you please explain how you did this.

This is to supplement previous post. I have been fooling around with the DX3R and at this moment I don't see how it can be made to work. It does not have all of the program features of the Futaba.

[TLTRyan]

I have F/R dig using 2 ESC's using a 4 channel pistol. No fancy wiring or ratshack switches. All programming done through the radio and ESC's. Im using Dual Tekin FX'Rs and a Nomadio React.

I have assigned both the front and rear ESC's to independent buttons on the TX. Both switches set either esc to a dual rate of 0% and ignore any throttle input. This ESC is now locked in neutral and the ESC Drag brake locks the motor down.

[One-eyed Jack]

Originally Posted by TLTRyan

I have F/R dig using 2 ESC's using a 4 channel pistol. No fancy wiring or ratshack switches. All programming done through the radio and ESC's. Im using Dual Tekin FX'Rs and a Nomadio React.

I have assigned both the front and rear ESC's to independent buttons on the TX. Both switches set either esc to a dual rate of 0% and ignore any throttle input. This ESC is now locked in neutral and the ESC Drag brake locks the motor down.

My point exactly. My speed controls are not as adjustable as yours but they do the job. I even have it set so that front and rear motors run in opposite directions and it will turn 180 in one spot.

[bbyrd22]

Originally Posted by One-eyed Jack

Don't get your panties in a knot. This is not pistol versus stick. It is a viable way to get front and rear dig with a pistol or a stick without the wiring of switches and using servos. There will be no wiring fu to contend with. If it can be drawn "I" can hook it up right. Most of these guys can not. Use the computer in your radio to your advantage. I "DO" GET IT. Open your mind to alternative methods.

If you haven't noticed, 95% of the berg drivers are using the DX3R or some type of pistol. I'd say I have opened up my mind by using the alternative.

This thread started out by asking about the DX6I and wiring options. I'd say it's been derailed with piston options which I can search for elsewhere.

BTW, I don't where panties, I go commando.

[One-eyed Jack]

Originally Posted by bbyrd22

If you haven't noticed, 95% of the berg drivers are using the DX3R or some type of pistol. I'd say I have opened up my mind by using the alternative.

This thread started out by asking about the DX6I and wiring options. I'd say it's been derailed with piston options which I can search for elsewhere.

BTW, I don't where panties, I go commando.

Really, I did not see that in the post. Must be in between the lines. What you responded with was a SA remark about how you already knew it could be done with a pistol. You are wiring motors thru micro switches that are rated at 5 amps. This is a recipe for failure. The motors can draw locked rotor currents in excess of 30 amps if you have the battery for it. When they fail they can and do cause a line to line fault. Poof goes the esc. Yes it is being done every day. That does not make it the only way or the best way,just a way. I was under the impression that you were the answer man not the poser. The answer Grizzly gave was on target from a wiring standpoint. Hook it up like he drew it and it will work fine. Being caught in your zipper might have something to do with with your mouth flapping without your brain in gear.

[TLTRyan]

I want to have "true dig" to kill the motor as you can with the wiring setup on the dx3r. I have my micro switch and micro servo installed, but not sure how to go about with a single switch setup. My motor are both wired to each speed control and are not connected to each other. My ESC's are wired to one single deans plug for the battery connection.

Are you trying to wire up 1 switch to do both f/r dig? You would need 2. I dont see why it would not work using 2.

Im guessing your using Castle ESC's and that your drag brakes just don't work well enough. Going to the Tekins would help alot. The Tekin ESC's brakes at 50% is stronger than the Castle ESC's brakes at 100%. I know a new pair of ESC's are a lot more epensive than a pair of switches though.

[constantmotion]

Originally Posted by bbyrd22

John,

I am running a berg with dual ESC's. I have it set up where throttle and rudder our my front and rear. Rudder (front), Throttle (rear). I have it mixed to where left rudder, front axle spins for the "dig", or what is considered dig for the radio.

I have the micro switch on the gear channel of the radio (DX6i) and have the endpoints set that the servo will activate the switch.

I am lost on the wiring for this setup. Is it possible?

Thanks.

Highlighted some key words for ya..........

[One-eyed Jack]

Originally Posted by constantmotion

Highlighted some key words for ya..........

You must have missed the Pistol or "STICK" part. I do believe Grizzly has shown that it is possible with a fine wire diagram. Programed correctly you can fly a plane with a STICK or hey a Pistol. Since I have not seen any post regarding doing true dig electronically I thought I would share the idea that it could be done. Yes mine is true since the tires lock in place and dig around 180 degrees if need be. There is a lot of useful information posted here and no reason for SA remarks even if the info is not exactly what you asked for. Someone else might want to try the options offered even if you don't. One size don't fit all. I can give as good as I get,probably better than most.

[tuner]

Originally Posted by One-eyed Jack

This is to supplement previous post. I have been fooling around with the DX3R and at this moment I don't see how it can be made to work. It does not have all of the program features of the Futaba.

Wow and I thought the dx3r was suppose to be the shizz radio. I even liked my dig better using my agressor srx 2ch radio but that was on my shafty. Now that I have a berg i might look into the 3pk or a 4ch radio.

[One-eyed Jack]

Originally Posted by gs tunner

Wow and I thought the dx3r was suppose to be the shizz radio. I even liked my dig better using my agressor srx 2ch radio but that was on my shafty. Now that I have a berg i might look into the 3pk or a 4ch radio.

I am not saying it absolutely can not be done with this radio,just that I have not figured out how. It has program mix but it will not turn on and off using the switches. Once you set the mix that is what you get. The Nomadio Sensor is a 4 chan. that can be programed to turn mix on and off. For the money you get a lot of bells and whistles with this radio. I know the Futaba 3PK can. Have not seen any info on the 4PK and or the Airtronics.