RCCrawler Forums

maxxa87 · 06-09-2009, 01:54 PM

The speed control i'm running doesnt have a power switch. I was hoping to be able to add one so that I won't have to fool with trying to plug my battery in when I reach a crawl spot. My body is screwed to the chassis so I have to try and fit my fat fingures under it and get to the plug. So I know how I would add one but would it hurt the current draw or anything being inline on the battery and about what rating should I get? Anyone ever done this. Also, can I add a seperate plug inline so I can charge the battery without unlpugging it from the speed control? Would it short if it got wet? Thanks in advance.

Rockcrawler · 06-09-2009, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maxxa87

The speed control i'm running doesnt have a power switch. I was hoping to be able to add one so that I won't have to fool with trying to plug my battery in when I reach a crawl spot. My body is screwed to the chassis so I have to try and fit my fat fingures under it and get to the plug. So I know how I would add one but would it hurt the current draw or anything being inline on the battery and about what rating should I get? Anyone ever done this. Also, can I add a seperate plug inline so I can charge the battery without unlpugging it from the speed control? Would it short if it got wet? Thanks in advance.

What speed control is it?

Are you running a BEC?

Not sure about the rating you would need.......that depends on your setup really.

I dont see where adding a charge plug would hurt as long as its on the battery side of the switch and the switch is off when you charge.

maxxa87 · 06-09-2009, 07:05 PM

It is a LRP Runner. I have it and a traxxas xl-5 but the LRP is alot smaller and has a brake. No BEC. I'm running that speed control, traxxas reciever, hitech 645mg servo, novak55, and a 8-cell nimh 3300.

clockworks · 06-10-2009, 12:44 AM

Any switch added between the battery and ESC is going to be a potential failure point, as well as reducing the maximum current. It's also not a good idea to extend the wires between the battery and ESC - plenty of problems on RC flying sites where people have done this.

If you can get a high-quality switch, and add it without extending the wires, it should be OK. Look for a switch that's rated at at least 30A, preferably higher, at 12VDC.
Stock motors pull around 10 amps continuous from 6-cell packs, much higher peak.

If you want to add a charge socket, get a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch. Wire the battery to the 2 common terminals, the ESC to one pair, the charge socket to the other.
In one position, the battery will be connected to the ESC. In the other, it'll be connected to the charge socket and the ESC will be disconnected.

maxxa87 · 06-10-2009, 09:46 PM

I ended up just making the wires longer. They are directly sodered together with three layers of shrink tubing at the joint. I'm running a J/K body and the electronics is mounted behind the rear seat and the battery is up front. I made them long enough so that I can pretty easily access the plug through my rocksliders I made today. I don't know why they didnt put a power switch on this ESC but it was free so oh well.

clockworks · 06-11-2009, 01:11 AM

Extending the battery wires can cause glitching or even ESC failure. I've not experienced it myself, but I've read about this happening on RC flying forums.
Fliers often need to move batteries or electronics in the airframe to achieve the correct centre of gravity, especially in "pusher" planes with the pack at the front and the motor at the rear. In these cases, it's recommended to extend the motor wires to the ESC, rather than the battery wires to the ESC.

If you've only added short extensions, you should be OK. If you notice any odd behaviour, stop using it or you risk blowing the ESC.

maxxa87 · 06-11-2009, 08:42 PM

I had to extend both. I made new wires that go from the male/female connectors about 4" to the motors. The battery wires are also maybe 4" longer. Only thing i've noticed is that my range has been cut down but I had noticed this before I extended the wires so I must have buggered up the reciever wire.

06-09-2009, 01:54 PM	#1
maxxa87 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 361	Adding Power Switch The speed control i'm running doesnt have a power switch. I was hoping to be able to add one so that I won't have to fool with trying to plug my battery in when I reach a crawl spot. My body is screwed to the chassis so I have to try and fit my fat fingures under it and get to the plug. So I know how I would add one but would it hurt the current draw or anything being inline on the battery and about what rating should I get? Anyone ever done this. Also, can I add a seperate plug inline so I can charge the battery without unlpugging it from the speed control? Would it short if it got wet? Thanks in advance.

06-09-2009, 07:05 PM	#3
maxxa87 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 361	It is a LRP Runner. I have it and a traxxas xl-5 but the LRP is alot smaller and has a brake. No BEC. I'm running that speed control, traxxas reciever, hitech 645mg servo, novak55, and a 8-cell nimh 3300.

06-10-2009, 12:44 AM	#4
clockworks Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: UK Posts: 818	Any switch added between the battery and ESC is going to be a potential failure point, as well as reducing the maximum current. It's also not a good idea to extend the wires between the battery and ESC - plenty of problems on RC flying sites where people have done this. If you can get a high-quality switch, and add it without extending the wires, it should be OK. Look for a switch that's rated at at least 30A, preferably higher, at 12VDC. Stock motors pull around 10 amps continuous from 6-cell packs, much higher peak. If you want to add a charge socket, get a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch. Wire the battery to the 2 common terminals, the ESC to one pair, the charge socket to the other. In one position, the battery will be connected to the ESC. In the other, it'll be connected to the charge socket and the ESC will be disconnected.

06-10-2009, 09:46 PM	#5
maxxa87 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 361	I ended up just making the wires longer. They are directly sodered together with three layers of shrink tubing at the joint. I'm running a J/K body and the electronics is mounted behind the rear seat and the battery is up front. I made them long enough so that I can pretty easily access the plug through my rocksliders I made today. I don't know why they didnt put a power switch on this ESC but it was free so oh well.

06-11-2009, 01:11 AM	#6
clockworks Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: UK Posts: 818	Extending the battery wires can cause glitching or even ESC failure. I've not experienced it myself, but I've read about this happening on RC flying forums. Fliers often need to move batteries or electronics in the airframe to achieve the correct centre of gravity, especially in "pusher" planes with the pack at the front and the motor at the rear. In these cases, it's recommended to extend the motor wires to the ESC, rather than the battery wires to the ESC. If you've only added short extensions, you should be OK. If you notice any odd behaviour, stop using it or you risk blowing the ESC.

06-11-2009, 08:42 PM	#7
maxxa87 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 361	I had to extend both. I made new wires that go from the male/female connectors about 4" to the motors. The battery wires are also maybe 4" longer. Only thing i've noticed is that my range has been cut down but I had noticed this before I extended the wires so I must have buggered up the reciever wire.

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