Wiring connections?

[mhuffman_81]

Ok I'm basing this off of harleys wiring diagram for the 4pk with dual fxr's. I need some clarification on what kind of connectors and if I have it right in my head before I order everything.

Female deans from battery going to a male deans connected to the cc bec and power to esc's.

From there would I go into another female to male with 4 wires, 2 for each esc? Going into yet another female to male with a piece of wire soldered to each esc? That way I can individually disconnect each esc.

Then from the esc would I go to another female deans to male to the motor?

I think I have that part figured out, correct me if I'm wrong, but what about the reciever connections?

What type of connector will go from the esc to the rx? And the servo to the rx, and the cc bec to the rx? Will those be deans as well?

And last on the pics of the rx with the 4pk there are 5 connection spots. Channel 1, 2, 3, 4, and a B/C, what is that B/C spot?

Thanks

[clockworks]

The ESCs and servos come with the Rx connectors already fitted (servo plugs). If the wires aren't long enough to reach the Rx, you can buy "servo extension leads" to make them longer. These come in various lengths from 3" upwards. Again, these have the correct connectors already fitted.

The "B/C" port on the Rx is a battery connector. Normally used in nitro setups, where there's no ESC BEC to supply the power for the Rx and servos. You can use it to connect the output from an external BEC.

Note that the battery connector on an Rx is the same as all the other ports, except it doesn't have a signal wire connection. You can connect a battery or BEC to any of the ports.

[mhuffman_81]

So on the setup suggested by Harley for the 4pk would I use that b/c connection on the rx for the cc bec or use channel 2 like he suggests?

[clockworks]

It doesn't matter - you can use any of the unused ports for the BEC.
Inside the Rx, all the "red" pins are joined together and all the "black" pins are joined together.
Only the "signal" pins are individually wired.

[Ampdraw]

You do understand there is no need to spend extra money for hobby specific brand name connectors that get priced accordingly right? For those "deans" connectors your going to pay $4 to $8 each for the connectors you can buy at any Home Depot or Lowes for $1 in a pack of 8 or more will serve exactly the same purpose. Fancy gold plated connectors are really a gimmick borrowed from the audio and videophile fanatics. 0 Ohms resistance is 0 Ohms resistance no matter how much (or little) you pay to get there. I find the "cheap" tin style connectors are better than the far higher priced gold or high temp stainless connectors. The higher priced connectors have a habit of getting hot and expanding, then not shrinking or springing back into shape, thus resulting in a loose connection, which creates resistance and heat. Gold connectors do have their purpose, Acidic car batteries, nothing better for battery post terminal connectors on your car. Waste of money for any other application.

Just go to your local hardware store and buy a 12 pack of the "Ideal brand 16-14 Bullet Disconnect Pairs" for a whopping $1.39. Set your VOM to 20Meg OHM and test both the fancy connectors and these, it's not going to know the difference, only your wallet will.

Most people don't use any connectors at all, I like using the connectors, makes it a lot easier to do a hot swap when your out in the field and a soldering iron isn't an option. Not to mention soldering well isn't a skill most people are just born with.

The money you'll save can be better spent elsewhere.

[mhuffman_81]

Originally Posted by Ampdraw

Just go to your local hardware store and buy a 12 pack of the "Ideal brand 16-14 Bullet Disconnect Pairs" for a whopping $1.39. Set your VOM to 20Meg OHM and test both the fancy connectors and these, it's not going to know the difference, only your wallet will.

Thanks I will do just that then, I don't care what kind of connector it is, so long as it works. Just keep hearing about the deans so that is what I looked up.

Thanks

[mhuffman_81]

Originally Posted by clockworks

It doesn't matter - you can use any of the unused ports for the BEC.
Inside the Rx, all the "red" pins are joined together and all the "black" pins are joined together.
Only the "signal" pins are individually wired.

Thanks I appreciate your help.

[Ghost]

I would just get DEANS connectors, they are not as expensive as Ampdraw claims them to be and the run time difference will be noticeable,
I have been running low loss connectors in rc cars for almost 30 years,and I have to DISAGREE with ampdraw when he says gold connectors are gimmick, Gold is the best conductor of electrictricty ever, no corrosion = better conductivity, by the way electrons travel on the outside of conductors not the inside. just solder your connections from motor to esc and use deans from battery to bec to esc and you will be fine.

[mhuffman_81]

Thanks for your input, I understand electronics. I am in telecommunications and went to electronics, and a cable and antenna school for the Air Force. But the connector still will not make much of a difference unless you are also running gold plated wire. The power is running down a copper wire and whether it is going to go through a gold plated, copper, or tin plated copper connector isn't going to make much of a difference when the majority of the run is going to be on copper wire or tin plated copper.

However gold plated will be much less corrosive and yes it does have a higher conductivity, but again I think for this application the differences would be minimal. I have priced them and for the amount of connectors I would need it would save me around 30-40 bucks by going the cheap route, and I can always upgrade down the road. My entire build is pushing $1500 bucks so any little bit saved initially would be nice, and small changes like this down the road aren't a big deal.

Thanks for your input.

[Ghost]

To each his own, but deans connectors are not that expensive, and the battery life saved is well worth the money spent, yeah the cheap connectors may ohm out the same but put a load on them and you will see a difference, but it is your choice, I have only been doing this for 30 years and I am an electronics technician. Soldering is not that hard and is a skill you will need to leard, not master if you are going to be in RC for very long. let me know if you have any further questions.

Jeff

[mhuffman_81]

No problem, not trying to argue. I know basic electronics and how to solder, have not had that much experience with it, but do know how. I appreciate your input and will price both types and get a count of how many i would need, I haven't even ordered anything yet, still waiting on my money to come in.

[Ghost]

TCS has good prices on everything....... Just so you know

[mhuffman_81]

How do you go from the esc to the motor? Straight wire soldered to each part or do you place a connector in between?

I figured if I went with deans I would go from a female off the battery to an esc y harness with 1 male and 2 female, then to one more deans connection to each esc, then each esc can be individually disconnected. But i'm not sure if I would place a connector between the esc and motor as well.

Or just make my own y harness.

[oldhippie]

Ya don't need all those connectors. Everytime ya add a solder joint and/or connector ya increase the chance of poor connections. And you shouldn't have to changing esc/motors often. I used to use bullet connectors on the motor wires but after they came unplugged a couple times they got chucked. All I'm saying is ya only need a deans for the battery (one male connector) not 4 or 5 pairs.

[clockworks]

I always use 4mm "Corally" tube and bullet connectors between the motor and ESC. I agree that it's a potential failure point, but so is a badly soldered motor wire. I find it easier to solder with the parts on the bench than when they are fitted in the vehicle. Makes teardown for maintenance easier, too.

[Ampdraw]

Originally Posted by mhuffman_81

Thanks for your input, I understand electronics. I am in telecommunications and went to electronics, and a cable and antenna school for the Air Force. But the connector still will not make much of a difference unless you are also running gold plated wire. The power is running down a copper wire and whether it is going to go through a gold plated, copper, or tin plated copper connector isn't going to make much of a difference when the majority of the run is going to be on copper wire or tin plated copper.

However gold plated will be much less corrosive and yes it does have a higher conductivity, but again I think for this application the differences would be minimal. I have priced them and for the amount of connectors I would need it would save me around 30-40 bucks by going the cheap route, and I can always upgrade down the road. My entire build is pushing $1500 bucks so any little bit saved initially would be nice, and small changes like this down the road aren't a big deal.

Thanks for your input.

Smart man, use the money saved on something that will make a bigger difference. Your Ohm meter won't lie to you like the people selling you over priced products will.

[Ampdraw]

Originally Posted by Ghost

To each his own, but deans connectors are not that expensive, and the battery life saved is well worth the money spent, yeah the cheap connectors may ohm out the same but put a load on them and you will see a difference, but it is your choice, I have only been doing this for 30 years and I am an electronics technician.
Jeff

That's the stupidest thing I have ever read. Ohms law is Ohms law and it holds true. Any, even self claimed "electronics technician" would know that much. Show me the math supporting your ignorant claim.

[Ampdraw]

Originally Posted by mhuffman_81

How do you go from the esc to the motor? Straight wire soldered to each part or do you place a connector in between?

I figured if I went with deans I would go from a female off the battery to an esc y harness with 1 male and 2 female, then to one more deans connection to each esc, then each esc can be individually disconnected. But i'm not sure if I would place a connector between the esc and motor as well.

Or just make my own y harness.

Most people direct solder the connections, obviously best for a connection. I opted to use connectors though because we often run ours while out in the sticks camping and have extra ESC, batteries and motors we can just plug in and basicly hot swap if a failure happens without the need of being restricted by no available outlets to plug a soldering iron into (don't like the butane soldering irons, but in a pinch it could be an alternative option). Its not like your running high tech or even high amp equipment here, simple connectors make for quick repair swaps and tear down easy cleaning.