some electronics durability questions

[bruteforce]

Hi all, been wondering something. How much super slow creeping can the esc and/or brushless motor typically handle before something overheats? Right now I am running a stock Axial esc and 27t motor combo with a 17/87 gear combo. I do like to do some pretty slow crawling and I am thinking that the motor is just not turning enough to keep it cool although the esc doesn't seem to get overly warm. And if it is a big issue, what would be a good combo to use and keep decent wheel speed for those situations that call for it and still be able to creep along at barely a crawl for at least a couple minutes at a time?. I do have a Novak Rooster esc, but the only other motor I have is a Traxxas 20t. Was thinking about a Novak 55t, but lately was wondering if a faster motor and lower gears may be the ticket. I am not doing anything comp, just screwing around and having fun on a budget.
Thanks in advance

[gottorque]

Since you have the rtr version, install the 14 tooth pinion instead of the 17 tooth one that should help keep the temps down. As for damaging the motor/esc because of going "super slow", well its not gonna get messed up as going slow is the name of the game.Also if you are gonna upgrade the motor/esc, get the novak rooster crawler esc combo with the 45 turn motor. You will get wheel speed and lots of power

[JohnRobHolmes]

It depends on if you are going super slow ON a rock, or super slow while bound up under a rock.

[Meatwad]

Axial 55t with an rc4wd mayhem speed control with stock gearing on 7.2 nimh. After about 45 mins the motor is slightly warm and esc is about the same

Higher turn motors seem like such light of a load when compared to lower turn motors

[bruteforce]

Originally Posted by gottorque

Since you have the rtr version, install the 14 tooth pinion instead of the 17 tooth one that should help keep the temps down. As for damaging the motor/esc because of going "super slow", well its not gonna get messed up as going slow is the name of the game.Also if you are gonna upgrade the motor/esc, get the novak rooster crawler esc combo with the 45 turn motor. You will get wheel speed and lots of power

Does the RTR version have a different ratio? What are the differences between the rtr, artr and kits? I thought it was just the yokes and links and lack of electronics.
I did get a Rooster cause I kept hearing good stuff about it, and I think your advice about the 45t motor and 14t pinion is sound. I got the 17t pinion cause I just didn't want to go too far. It came with the 20t. And i figured as much about creeping being ok, it's just that a guy at the hobby shop told my buddy that you can't run em like that cause they will fry.

[DrunkDriver]

Originally Posted by gottorque

Also if you are gonna upgrade the motor/esc, get the novak rooster crawler esc combo with the 45 turn motor. You will get wheel speed and lots of power

I don't know why you would spend that much cash on a Novak, that can only handle 8.4v max. For the same price, you could pick up a Tekin FXR with a 45T motor that can handle 3s lipo.

The higher voltage will give you more power, better low end control, and gobs of wheel speed when/if you need it. The FXR is made for crawling aswell, and has the same functions. I still own a tekin rebel esc from the mid 90's that still works great after a decade in the clod buster.

Drunk

[indiana mudcat]

i believe the rtr comes with a 20 and a 14, everything else comes with the 14. the more you gear it down the cooler it will run.

[gottorque]

Originally Posted by DrunkDriver

I don't know why you would spend that much cash on a Novak, that can only handle 8.4v max. For the same price, you could pick up a Tekin FXR with a 45T motor that can handle 3s lipo.

The higher voltage will give you more power, better low end control, and gobs of wheel speed when/if you need it. The FXR is made for crawling aswell, and has the same functions. I still own a tekin rebel esc from the mid 90's that still works great after a decade in the clod buster.

Drunk

Now he did say he was on a budget and maby an entirly new motor/esc combo is out of the question so that why i said put the 14 turn pinion in cause it comes with the rtr

[bruteforce]

Originally Posted by DrunkDriver

I don't know why you would spend that much cash on a Novak, that can only handle 8.4v max. For the same price, you could pick up a Tekin FXR with a 45T motor that can handle 3s lipo.

The higher voltage will give you more power, better low end control, and gobs of wheel speed when/if you need it. The FXR is made for crawling aswell, and has the same functions. I still own a tekin rebel esc from the mid 90's that still works great after a decade in the clod buster.

Drunk

I got the Rooster for 35 bucks and I'm using the money I saved to get a stage 2 kit. And as far as voltage, I'm just gonna stick with stock for now, I've already started breaking stuff after I weighted the wheels. The lipos sound awesome to me, but way out of my budget right now. This is just a used learner rig that I got for 125 bucks.
I'm taking notes for when i get a new rig tho, thanks.

*EDIT* Mine didn't have the 14t pinion with it and had the 20 on it, I will get one tho, I do think the 17 is still too much.