09-30-2009, 08:14 PM | #1 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 499
| Schottky Diode....
Let's just get this out of the way. I'm an idiot.... I got a TLT ready to run from a guy on Ebay and I just wanted to plug it in and make sure everything worked so I charged up a pack and let it rip. I noticed that reverse was running really slow and I messed with it a little while and noticed everything was supper hot. Before I could disconnect the battery, I saw a blue spark pop from between the motor and speed controller (Novak XRS). I figured it was just a crap speed controller and wasn't that worried because I really didn't spend that much on it. Then I realized there was a diode on the motor. Crap! I just fried a perfectly good speed controller! Anybody ever done this and is there a way to repair it or is it pretty much going to cost more than the speed controller is worth? |
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09-30-2009, 08:47 PM | #2 |
Custom Carbon Fiber Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Connecticut :(
Posts: 4,501
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ive popped them in the past, on OLD Novaks like first generation mid 80's ones, and the ESC was fine. cant say yes or no but did you try the truck after removing the shotky? |
09-30-2009, 09:00 PM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 499
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I was too scared to... It popped once and I immediately shut if off and disconnected the battery. I figured it was toasted so I just pulled the ESC. It was direct soldered to the motor with only an inch and a half of lead between them so I just cut the leads off the motor. It's also in a stock TLT chassis so I couldn't get to the diode either. I need to pull the motor to get it off. I probably won't use it anyway. No need for a 17 turn in a crawler unless I put it in my WK tranny rig with the 4:1 gear reduction box. I need to test it out on another motor I guess. I'm afraid it will take something else wtih it if I try it again. My daugher cooked a Futaba MC230 when her steering servo let go so I am a little timid about plugging it back in. I did try just plugging a battery in and turning it on. The little red light just blinked, which probalby just means it's telling me it's not plugged into a receiver.
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09-30-2009, 09:21 PM | #4 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicago/Bloomington
Posts: 1,505
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Take the motor out and remove the diode (what's left of it). Rewire it and try it out. Odds are that only the diode blew out which is fine because you can't use reverse with a schotky diode (the current only flow one way, the diode acts as a valve). I've seen it happen quite often back a few years ago, someone forgets and POP there goes the diode. Of course orange ESCs to have a bad habit of catching on fire. |
09-30-2009, 09:58 PM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 499
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Yeah, guess it couldn't hurt. If it's gone, it's gone. I'll try it on one of my other motors and see what it does. It shouldn't hurt the transmitter if it's fried should it? Don't need to cook that while I'm at it...
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10-02-2009, 09:48 PM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 499
| Well, I hooked it up to a 75t Axiom that I had and what do you know, the little fella still worked. Amazing based on the fireworks show it put on when it blew the diode! |
10-02-2009, 10:12 PM | #7 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Phoenix
Posts: 573
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Yep, Shotkey diodes on a reversing esc = fireworks, diodes only work in one direction reverse the voltage and boom, the esc should be ok |
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