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Old 11-14-2009, 05:58 PM   #1
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Default Novak Goat Issue

Hey guys, I have a Novak Goat in my Timberwolfd, my son was driving it the other night and he came in and told me the battery was dead. I gave it throttle and it didnt make a noise or even move but the steering worked. I turned the wheels about 10 times and it seems fine but it still wouldnt drive. I shut off the switch and turned it back on and then it worked perfectly. Battery was fully charged so that wasnt the issue. Only time it has happened, but I have not driven it since. Any ideas?
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:38 PM   #2
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i can't explain it, but mine has done that several times. i ended up blaming heat and added the fan.
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:17 PM   #3
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Did that solve the issue? i think I am going to install me telemetry temp from my DX3S to it and see if thats an issue. Maybe I dont have my mesh right on the R2.
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:44 PM   #4
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i think it did, i've had so many issue's with my goat it's hard to remember what fixed what.
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:13 PM   #5
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Really, thats not good. Care to share?
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:31 PM   #6
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glitching, shutting down, heat, turning into a sport ESC with no drag and a double tap for reverse, taking off full throttle at random and not having neutral at neutral no matter how many times i did the one touch.

since i added the fan, a CC BEC and got a 2.4 radio i've only had glitching issue's once, the full throttle deal once and a odd deal where it would cut out under full throttle at the last comp i went to. AM was a nightmare, really undriveable (for comps anyways). and i hate how the dragbrake works, it needs to be stronger at part throttle and ramp up slower.


i now remember the worst it got with the issue your having now was when i switched from hammers to rovers without gearing down, going 3 teeth down on the pinion helped and the fan cured, a strong setting on the drag brake will cause major heat if you let the rig set still also.
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indiana mudcat View Post
and i hate how the dragbrake works, it needs to be stronger at part throttle and ramp up slower.
What Dragbrake? Novak's have Hold Brakes, not Drag Brakes, either off or on, no inbetween. ;)
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:26 PM   #8
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What Dragbrake? Novak's have Hold Brakes, not Drag Brakes, either off or on, no inbetween. ;)
yes, your correct. it's supposed to be progressive but isn't very. there is a slight amount of drag, i found that out when it reverted to sport programming.
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:32 PM   #9
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I have had this problem also,I think it is some sort of "over volt" problem.
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:38 PM   #10
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I have had this problem also,I think it is some sort of "over volt" problem.
except for the first week or two on 6 cell 1800 nicad mine's always been on 2s.
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:49 PM   #11
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I thought this because i have had a "stall" when i first turn mine on a few times,But after the first amp draw it works fine.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:22 AM   #12
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I've thermalled my 3S Goat at 159 degrees. Turned it off for a few then back on and was good to go.


Quote:
Originally Posted by indiana mudcat View Post
yes, your correct. it's supposed to be progressive but isn't very.
Like Tanis said, it's a hold brake, not a progressive drag brake. So off or on, all or nothing, no ramping up to hold. I remember when the Rooster Crawler came out and it was a love/hate thing. Like the Losi worm gears, all or nothing.

In Sport mode is was likely just the natural drag of the motor and gear reduction of the drivetrain.
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:18 AM   #13
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Wow, a lot of good info for me here. I will look into a fan but I want to see what my temps read when I go crawl. Thanks for the input.
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:35 PM   #14
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I've thermalled my 3S Goat at 159 degrees. Turned it off for a few then back on and was good to go.




Like Tanis said, it's a hold brake, not a progressive drag brake. So off or on, all or nothing, no ramping up to hold. I remember when the Rooster Crawler came out and it was a love/hate thing. Like the Losi worm gears, all or nothing.

In Sport mode is was likely just the natural drag of the motor and gear reduction of the drivetrain.
we're actually agreeing a little here for once about the goat. novak says there's a ramp to it (progressivly ramps up so the rig doesn't flip, i think is thier words), the losi worm gears keep the rig from coasting at part throttle, so even though it's all/nothing it's better.

when it went in sport mode it flew downhill, thats how i figued out there was a slight drag in crawler mode.

if they add ramp and drag adjustments when they add the novalink to the 3s unit it will perform well IMO.
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indiana mudcat View Post
if they add ramp and drag adjustments when they add the novalink to the 3s unit it will perform well IMO.
Yah except for the fact that you will have to buy a new esc..Since no previous models will be made compatible.Only the new esc's that are engineered to do so will be compatible..

I would get yourself a Mamba Max Pro..Has alot less isues,and comes already compatible with Castle Link so you can tune your esc,plus no need for a bec..
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:10 PM   #16
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I keep hearing that and I may go that way when I build my Bruiser.
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Old 11-16-2009, 12:11 AM   #17
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Hey guys. What gearing are we usin on our Goats. Im usin 20/87 (pinion/spur) is that right? I use a fan during the day. 14/87 got hot on me. Does this sound right?
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Old 11-16-2009, 02:23 PM   #18
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16/87 thermals on mine pretty quick, i run 13/87. 18.5 on 2s
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Old 11-16-2009, 07:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepial View Post
Yah except for the fact that you will have to buy a new esc..Since no previous models will be made compatible.Only the new esc's that are engineered to do so will be compatible..

I would get yourself a Mamba Max Pro..Has alot less isues,and comes already compatible with Castle Link so you can tune your esc,plus no need for a bec..

Our upcoming M2 Dual 3S brush controller will be the first Novak esc released with the PC interface. It can also be set up for single brush motor operation.

Our Kinetic 2S Racing controller will be released next; then we will re-design the other controllers that we plan to continue offering. We are also finishing up our Kinetic 4S; wonder if Crawler specific BL controllers will even be necessary?

Kinetic programming features:

Multiple adjustable parameters via on-board or optional PC interface: Minimum Brake, Drag Brake, Minimum Drive, Dynamic Timing Advance™, Electronic Power Control™, Dead Band, Throttle Curve, Brake Curve, Brake Frequency, Brake End Point, Drive Frequency, Reverse, Motor Rotation, Battery Type Selection, Starting Line Mode, Motor Temperature, Voltage Cut-Off (via NovaLink) and Profile Selection


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Old 11-17-2009, 09:16 PM   #20
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Ya, I saw that over at RCP. 3s, nice.
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