Mamba Max Pro- brushed- which wires?

[indiana mudcat]

Just put a MMP in a LNC with a 55t Tekin handwound, programmed the ESC to lastest firmware and set settings via castleink, bound the ESC to the TX and no motor action. The leds flash to show F/R/N but the motor doesn't drive at all hooked to black and red (A and C), which I'm pretty sure is what the manual said. My goat used A and B for brushed, making me think I need Red and White? Any input? I know the motor is fine, it was already in the truck and ran when I hooked the battery to it, tried a fresh pack also.

[Biscuit]

My buddies truck was doing the same thing. Hooked it to the computer and realized that he had it in "Brushed-High power" mode Instead of just the regular brushed mode.

You might want to check and make sure your isnt set like that also...at least it was a quick and easy fix on his truck.
Good-luck!!!!

[ultimate_monkey]

the mmpro uses the red and black, you are correct, x2 on checking what motor settings its set too. also things like LVC and such, via castel link its a really simple set up process for the esc,

[indiana mudcat]

Kinda strange, I rechecked all the settings and everything was what I wanted, BEC 6.0, Auto LVC at 3.4, brushed reversing, 0 brake, 0 drag and 100% reverse. Tried again and still nothing, unplugged the motor from the ESC (deans), checked for voltage from the ESC and got 12 volts, plugged the motor back in and the motor worked. Drove around the room fine and then I flipped it on my incline board and it quit, wiggled the wires coming from the ESC and it came back and never quit again. I hope somethings not loose but driving several minutes and moving the wires around it never quit again. I'll test it more tommorrow before I give it back to the owner.

[ultimate_monkey]

umm u have the LVC at 3.4? you know that the MM pro is cut off at battery voltage no cell voltage right? im asuming u wanted 3.4v per cell so u would want it at 6.8 volt cut off for 2s, 10.2 for 3s, or do u have it set to auto lipo? in that case ur ok

[indiana mudcat]

Ya it's on auto detect, gonna be running some with 2,3 and 4s packs.

[Blood_Clod]

Originally Posted by indiana mudcat

Kinda strange, I rechecked all the settings and everything was what I wanted, BEC 6.0, Auto LVC at 3.4, brushed reversing, 0 brake, 0 drag and 100% reverse. Tried again and still nothing, unplugged the motor from the ESC (deans), checked for voltage from the ESC and got 12 volts, plugged the motor back in and the motor worked. Drove around the room fine and then I flipped it on my incline board and it quit, wiggled the wires coming from the ESC and it came back and never quit again. I hope somethings not loose but driving several minutes and moving the wires around it never quit again. I'll test it more tommorrow before I give it back to the owner.

Did you check to see if one of your brushes on your motor is hung up or just wore out. Try pluggin everything on and give it throttle and give you truck a push (turn the motor over) and if it powers up then dies again your brushes are toast.

FYI, you would be fine with Auto-lipo set at 3.0volt/cell in your crawler. 3.4v/cell is a bit conservitive.

[indiana mudcat]

I bumped a 2s lipo pack straight to the motor and it ran, also tried turning the driveshafts while holding the throttle (worms), so the brushes were fine, the motor has only saw about a dozen courses. On the cutoff I feel 3.0 is pretty risky, if the pack gets off balance it hurts the lowest cell and only get worse every run after, the truck belongs to a 12 year old and I'd rather be on the safe side than cause his dad to buy packs more often.

I wired two 1650 30/50c 2s packs in series to make a 4s pack and ran the entire pack outside on my rockpile just now without issue, still have no clue what the problem was but seems good now. Hopefully it last for 6 courses and a finals tommorrow without issue.



Edit: I didn't realize that setting the auto to 3.4 per would actually kick in at 3.9 until I went to charge the packs, I reset it for 3.0

[igbandy]

Sounds like a dry solder joint on one of your deans connectors.

[indiana mudcat]

Maybe I should look at the joint coming from the ESC when I have the truck again, the one on the motor was already there and fine. I've been soldering for 20 years and with my new 60 watt iron I've been putting better joints than ever down lately, but I've screwed up before and will screw up again.

When we got to the comp Saturday morning I took the motor out of the truck to change the pinion from a 20 to a 16, put the motor back in and no workie. I wiggled the wires and nothing, unplugged the deans to the motor and plugged it back in and it worked. It ran fine on 4s for 9 courses and a finals course after that, so I'm still a little confused. It's cool when a 12 year old driving a sportsman truck makes the finals with the dig trucks though.

[CentralCoaster]

Originally Posted by indiana mudcat

Edit: I didn't realize that setting the auto to 3.4 per would actually kick in at 3.9 until I went to charge the packs, I reset it for 3.0

The ESC would have cut out when it saw 3.4V at the pack under load. On your charger with nothing connected, sure it probably read 3.9V.

I would not recommend 3.0 cutoff, especially for cheaper lipos. If you sense the lipo batteries getting soft, then you've overdischarged them. What's happening is the internal resistance in at least one of the cells is increasing, so the current is decreasing, and the pack is starting to heat up. The packs now have such insane capacity, that it doesn't make sense to try and get that last little drop of energy out of them at the risk of damaging the cells. 3.2V is a good middle ground. As the packs age, you can bump that up a little higher.

Also I've had issues with some of the imitation Deans connectors not making good contact and cutting out. It defies logic, as beefy as they are.

[Blood_Clod]

Originally Posted by indiana mudcat

I bumped a 2s lipo pack straight to the motor and it ran, also tried turning the driveshafts while holding the throttle (worms), so the brushes were fine, the motor has only saw about a dozen courses. On the cutoff I feel 3.0 is pretty risky, if the pack gets off balance it hurts the lowest cell and only get worse every run after, the truck belongs to a 12 year old and I'd rather be on the safe side than cause his dad to buy packs more often.

I wired two 1650 30/50c 2s packs in series to make a 4s pack and ran the entire pack outside on my rockpile just now without issue, still have no clue what the problem was but seems good now. Hopefully it last for 6 courses and a finals tommorrow without issue.



Edit: I didn't realize that setting the auto to 3.4 per would actually kick in at 3.9 until I went to charge the packs, I reset it for 3.0

Understandable...

Long shot, but what kind of servos are you running? I've had multiple occasions where my servo was just starting to crap out on me and cause my throttle to do weird thing. When you truck was running, when it quit can you recall if the servo has acted quirky?