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09-09-2010, 01:55 PM
| #1 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Lincolnton
Posts: 12
|  Please help burning servos
Ok, yesterday I put the axial bta steering on my ax10 and started running it and about 10 minutes later the steering servo burned up. It didnt strip any gears inside or on the arm, it just got HOT and quit working. I figured it was just old and time to go out since Ive run it for a long time on that servo. Then today I went and got a new one that was rated for higher torque and put it on. All was well for about 20 minutes, guess what happened. It got HOT and quit working. I have no idea what is wrong as I have not changed ANYTHING electrical and I dont want to buy another new servo just to burn it up also. thank you
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09-09-2010, 02:12 PM
| #2 |
| Quarry Creeper  Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: waterford
Posts: 243
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short answer: you probably smoked the new servo if it stoped working. so you need to get another servo, or send yours back in for a warranty and pick your self up a BEC. I suggest getting a Castle. Long answer: Recivers do not put out the kinda power we need for the kind of servos we use. So basicly you are causing the servos to "stall" when under load. This casues the heating issue. And the heating casue the servo to let out the magic smoke that makes electrical things work. But you LHS should be able to send it back as a warranty item. The BEC (battery eliminating circuit) will take power strait from the battery and send it strait to the servo. Last edited by xzk7nr; 09-09-2010 at 02:25 PM. |
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09-09-2010, 02:20 PM
| #3 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Ogden
Posts: 93
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What kind of radio and servo's are you running? I know its crazy but I burnt up a Hitec 7955 servo and my replacement 7954SH kept getting just as hot, so my runtimes went to crap because I had to always shut it down to let it cool down. Then I talked to the guy that runs our local track and he said because I was running a FM Radio they don't work as well on digital servos, they don't center right and they get hot for whatever reason. So i threw a cheap 2 ch. 2.4 losi radio in my rig and sure as shootin my servo hasn't got hot since. Just an Idea if it means anything.  |
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09-09-2010, 02:21 PM
| #4 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Ogden
Posts: 93
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I doubt a bec is gonna help, that sends more power servo, and if anything is just heating up a servo more. I run a castle bec and that sure didn't help my situation any.
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09-09-2010, 02:26 PM
| #5 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stowe
Posts: 3,987
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check your endpoint adjustment. If it is too far that is why you are killing it.
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09-09-2010, 02:35 PM
| #6 | |
| Rock Crawler  Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Lititz
Posts: 787
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09-09-2010, 02:45 PM
| #7 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,236
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09-09-2010, 03:43 PM
| #8 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: 20 miles southeeast of downtown Sacramento
Posts: 2,373
| Quote:
 Oh, and check for binding!
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09-10-2010, 10:40 AM
| #9 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Lincolnton
Posts: 12
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Well thank you for all the answers. Ok, I am running a futaba 3pm 2.4ghz radio and receiver, 55 turn novak, rooster crawler esc, and the first servo I had on it was a jrsport st126 hi torque. It worked great. Then the second one was a jr z650 I believe thats the name. It was rated at 142 oz/in vs. the st126's 126 oz/in. SO, I went and bought another st126 and it worked fine all evening yesterday but felt a little warm if you touched the top of it on the steering arm side, but other than the heat it did fine. Also, I noticed alot of you said check endpoint adjustment. What is this and how does it adjust? Thank you.
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09-10-2010, 11:25 AM
| #10 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goin broke losing weight.....
Posts: 2,262
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Go to epa adjustment screen on ur radio, turn wheel to full lock in one direction. If servo is making noise, press (-) until it stops. Repeat for other direction. Whether your steering or servo bottoms out, you want to back off from this point a little. If anything, you could really up your servo torque and this would help alot. You really want atleast 250 - 300 ozs of torque if you can afford it.
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09-10-2010, 11:25 AM
| #11 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,236
| Quote:
Here is how to do it with your radio (page 30-33) http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/3pm-2_4ghz-manual.pdf To set mine I usually start at a low value like 25% and work my way toward 100%. As soon as I see that it can no longer turn any farther I take away a couple % just so I dont burn up servos. This should stop your servo from working too hard and stop all that heat from building up. Hope that helps, SMR 510RR | |
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09-10-2010, 11:49 AM
| #12 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Lincolnton
Posts: 12
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Thank you, I'm 99.9% sure that this was the problem because when I put the bta kit on the truck it gained a good bit of steering angle and I dont have it with me at the moment but I'm pretty positive it was doing what you said at full steer making noise like it's still trying to turn. So I will be doing the adjustment when I get home and we'll see how it goes. Also, I'm sure that it is on another thread but while were here, what servo would you recommend and about what can I expect to pay for it.
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09-10-2010, 02:16 PM
| #13 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,236
| Quote:
Here is probably one of the best bang for the buck servos: Hobbico CS170 333 on/in @6.0v http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNRN6 And you will want to get a BEC to power it: Castle Creation 10amp BEC http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSWL3&P=ML And then you will be ready to go! | |
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