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Old 11-21-2010, 07:27 PM   #1
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Default Need Help with adapting.......

ok, so, I've got a super class crawler built from an AX10, I've beefed the driveline already to run off of a 10T cobalt puller but, well, to be honest, I'm hitting the wall where it just doesn't quite have the umph that I want it to....

potential solution.....
I've got a mamba monster max and the HPI Tork 2200kv brushless motor......it's certainly got enough grunt to handle being a monster of a crawler. I'm running a 2S 6000mah battery so, I'm not worried about the drain on it. The problem is...how to adapt the big @$$ motor to fit the AX10 tranny. Body width won't be an issue as I'm getting ready to rebuild the whole thing from scratch and it's custom bodiless so, I'm not so worried about fitting, I'll make that happen one way or another....

how do you adapt the transmission to take another size spur gear (particularly a different tooth pitch, probably need Mod 1, though Mod 0.8 would work if we can find a way to make it happen easily)

beyond that it's motor/transmission mount to make that spur fit too....


yes, I realize this may be a tough one to pull off, but, I have a strong hunch that the 2200kv motor will have WAY more than enough drag brake to stop a crawler perfectly, and that setup has very very fine low end throttle control and tons of torque...(hopefully not so much that I destroy diff gears and CVD Shafts, but, moving to Super300's isn't happening any time soon)
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Old 11-21-2010, 07:40 PM   #2
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scratch the last part, no need to adapt to other pitch/pinion setups, an aluminum spur/slipper setup that's 48P would be nice, RC4WD makes a 15T 48P 5mm pinion, which, I think 15T is what my existing pinion is so, no gearing change so far....looking like it might work!
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:45 PM   #3
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Here is a aluminum spur,

http://www.toadztoyz.com/Associated/...-p8406451.html

What size wheels and tires are you running? Also get a video of it running after, it'll fly!!!!
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:52 PM   #4
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ok, so, I've got a super class crawler built from an AX10, I've beefed the driveline already to run off of a 10T cobalt puller but, well, to be honest, I'm hitting the wall where it just doesn't quite have the umph that I want it to....
What is your final drive ratio and voltage?


I ran a 10t puller at 38:1 final on a 3 cell in my last super. Pretty zippy and you had to be careful when bound up cause it'd shred gears. The car was only 6 pounds though.

Spur gears are the best fuse in a super class shafty. A dime a dozen and simple to replace. If you beef up the spur, you'll start busting tranny internals and axle internals....which are more expensive and harder to repair on course.

Last edited by Reflection; 11-21-2010 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:47 PM   #5
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What size wheels and tires are you running? Also get a video of it running after, it'll fly!!!!
right now, they're proline 40 series wheels narrowed to 1.5" with moabXL's on em and custom foam.....

as soon as I find some 17mm adapters/wideners that actually work on my rig, I'll be dropping down to 1/8 scale buggy wheels with MT sized Badlands most likely, the 40 series MoabXL's are simply way too large, they're too tall, not sticky enough, and get into my suspension too much when turning..... (I **LOST** a ton of turning radius even with 4WS and dig because of the size of those stupid tires)

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What is your final drive ratio and voltage?
I ran a 10t puller at 38:1 final on a 3 cell in my last super. Pretty zippy and you had to be careful when bound up cause it'd shred gears. The car was only 6 pounds though.
Spur gears are the best fuse in a super class shafty. A dime a dozen and simple to replace. If you beef up the spur, you'll start busting tranny internals and axle internals....which are more expensive and harder to repair on course.
uh, right now, running an 84t spur with 15T pinion iirc....what that translates to be as final drive, I don't rightly recall.......as far as voltage, just 2S Lipo. It's not speed I'm after though, the mamba max in the rig now doesn't play nicely all the time so I'm looking at replacing it with the monster max because I already have it, and, I shouldn't ever strain that beast. With that in mind, I have a motor that has more torque than the 10T puller ever thought about having and it's a strong enough motor that I don't need a high powered drag brake setting, the magnets on the motor will ensure the crawler isn't moving if the throttle isn't running, and, with the current weight of my rig, and the size of the tires, the 10T with mamba max, and drag brake turned all the way up, the vehicle has to be held at throttle on an incline to keep it from trying to roll off.....(unintentional reverse penalties REALLY suck)
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:49 AM   #6
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oh yeah, here's a vid of it as it sits right now, I've got some tweaking yet to do, not quite sure how I'm going to pull it off but, I want the front suspension to nearly mirror the rear, as for some strange reason, my rear axle has a ton of steering before the tires touch it, and the front is fairly useless when it comes to steering....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP8vevb5KZA
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:06 AM   #7
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What's the wheel base on it? Whats the width? Maybe you should try some wheel wideners so the tires don't get into the shocks. Was that running the puller or th mmm? It also looks like you may need some super 300's soon.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:18 AM   #8
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uh, I think WB is 17 or 17.5, width is stupidly wide, and I've already got wideners on it....

as far as motor, that's with the puller (still has PLENTY of go)

and no, no super300's yet, that was crappy MIP CVD's, which even the guy that was supposedly the owner said "yeah, they sucked, that's why we pulled them off the market after 6 months" I broke 3 out of 4 cvd's in the span of about 15 minutes in the front yard on those rocks right there.....stock dogbones have held up with the current setup, though, I've got axial CVD's on the front now....stock axial bones on the back, and they're handling fine.....
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:30 AM   #9
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I have a 10t puller on mine I run on 4s. On 2s its just weak. I run a 10tooth pinion with a 87tooth spur. With the 4s voltage I put a cheap heatsink and fan on the motor to keep it cool. Seems to work ok. With 13 tooth pinion sometimes I would stall out the motor. Even with the 10tooth I can stall it but thats in a total bind and I think the axles are on the verge of breaking. Ive chewed up a couple of spur gears too with the 10tooth so I set the mesh a little on the tight side. I also found my endbell on the motor was loose and moving around, so my timing was off. Did you set the timing on the puller? I haven't tried mine on the 4s with the timing right, but im expecting cooler temps on the 4s-maybel I wont even need the fan. Hope this helps
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:32 AM   #10
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I have a 10t puller on mine I run on 4s. On 2s its just weak. I run a 10tooth pinion with a 87tooth spur. With the 4s voltage I put a cheap heatsink and fan on the motor to keep it cool. Seems to work ok. With 13 tooth pinion sometimes I would stall out the motor. Even with the 10tooth I can stall it but thats in a total bind and I think the axles are on the verge of breaking. Ive chewed up a couple of spur gears too with the 10tooth so I set the mesh a little on the tight side. I also found my endbell on the motor was loose and moving around, so my timing was off. Did you set the timing on the puller? I haven't tried mine on the 4s with the timing right, but im expecting cooler temps on the 4s-maybel I wont even need the fan. Hope this helps

uhh......holmes says not to run anything above 3S "lightly" 2S is what the motor is made for......

I'm not looking at going to the motor for more "lets move" torque but greater stopping power and drag brake...
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:50 AM   #11
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Got it ok. Maybe start a thread in the superclass section and someone will be able to tell you their. Hope you get it figured out
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:27 PM   #12
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Dig would help it tremendously....

I ran 18/81 spur/pinion gears,axial tranny with 3.3:1 ratio in my axles if that'll help out with figuring your final. I was at 38:1 final.
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Old 11-23-2010, 12:31 PM   #13
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it's already got a VP dig in it......and if I can get that Robinson Racing 93T pinion on it, I'll have 93/15 for a 6.2:1 ratio with the 15T pinion, though, I think I'm going to have to cut a custom motor mount plate because I have a hunch the stock one isn't going to clear a 93/15 combo, and I'm really not sure that Tork motor will fit without going that large....but, the mount holes line up perfectly.....I'll know as soon as my pinion gets here.....
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:39 PM   #14
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as a side thought, if you were suggesting the dig for helping keep it still when not in the throttle.....the problem is, on an incline, the 10T motor only moves the rig forward above about half throttle, and requires that half throttle in the direction of the incline to keep the crawler from moving down it, so, if I want it to not roll backwards going uphill I have to keep throttle above 50% forward, if I want to control the descent, I'm dealing with up to 50% reverse.....
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Old 11-24-2010, 05:57 AM   #15
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as a side thought, if you were suggesting the dig for helping keep it still when not in the throttle.....
No, suggested it to help with climbing up that rock with the little undercut that kept flipping you over.


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the 10T motor only moves the rig forward above about half throttle
That's strange, I can breathe on my throttle and the pullers I have will creep as slow as you wish. Not physically breathe.... You get the gist though. I can just barely touch the throttle and the truck will crawl forward or reverse, either direction. Changing your throttle and brake curves in the ESC, I would say could make a huge difference.
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:25 AM   #16
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No, suggested it to help with climbing up that rock with the little undercut that kept flipping you over.
tires need weight added (currently have none in them) and they're the older MT compound, not very soft or sticky, so, they need to be soaked so they'll turn flexible on me......what was the deal you're supposed to soak them with again? (also the foam job I've got in em sucks lol)


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That's strange, I can breathe on my throttle and the pullers I have will creep as slow as you wish. Not physically breathe.... You get the gist though. I can just barely touch the throttle and the truck will crawl forward or reverse, either direction. Changing your throttle and brake curves in the ESC, I would say could make a huge difference.

you missed the rest of the part there, on an incline, or decline, I have to use 50% of the throttle in the uphill direction to maintain position.....the puller plus drag brake on the esc aren't strong enough to hold the crawler (mostly because of the tires and current gearing) also if you're running a MOA rig with pullers, obviously you'll have better luck holding it still with the pullers....you've got 2 of em and they're right on the axle :P
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Old 11-24-2010, 02:23 PM   #17
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you missed the rest of the part there, on an incline, or decline, I have to use 50% of the throttle in the uphill direction to maintain position.....the puller plus drag brake on the esc aren't strong enough to hold the crawler (mostly because of the tires and current gearing) also if you're running a MOA rig with pullers, obviously you'll have better luck holding it still with the pullers....you've got 2 of em and they're right on the axle :P
No, I got everything. Up hill, down hill, in a rut, bound up tighter than dicks hat band....just a touch of the throttle and the puller would start. Incline, I'd just touch the throttle and it'd hold the truck. If it was bound up tight, chances are, it'd clean the spur gear of it's teeth. Anyone thats run with me knows I used to carry a pocket full of spur gears with me.

No MOA supers for me. This is my old super I'm talking about if you wanna check it out. BLACK 14r
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Old 11-24-2010, 02:41 PM   #18
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Sounds like the motor may need some maintenence. How long has the puller been running?

The Tork motor will have very bad low speed drivability because it is sensorless. When you get bound up it will just snap the wheels into rotation, likely to break driveline pretty easily.
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:53 PM   #19
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well, I finally got around to finishing this up and well...JRH was dead on, from zero throttle to moving it'd goose itself into motion.

the deal breaker however, was that the tork has so much power, that the slipper clutch would spin even when cranked all of the way. couldn't even get enough bite to get climbing, and once you were headed upward, you quickly lost bite because the slipper just started screaming, even with a brand new slipper installed.

as far as how much time the 10T puller has on it, I honestly don't know, I bought it used. I've had it for about 18 months.....what suggestions for that motor?
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