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Thread: New MMP 1c and some low end cogging

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Old 02-25-2011, 09:28 AM   #1
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Default New MMP 1c and some low end cogging

Finally got my Ballistic 18.5 motor back from Novak and a new Goat 3s, thanks Novak . So i went ahead and wired up my Ballistic to my new MMP 1c.

First off, i found out that even running the CC BEC, i wasn't getting any power to the ESC with the red wire pulled. So i plugged the red wire back into the ESC and whallahh, power! That is running a 2S battery, haven't put a 3S in yet.

I don't have the CC link yet (on it's way), so my LHS went ahead and real quick between customers hooked it up and put the settings at forward 100% reverse 100%. I think that's it.

Now, at real low speed, i'm getting some cogging. The Goat 3s (when it worked right) never did that. I can say that the low end is much smoother starting with the CC than the Goat, but it does have a little cogging every once in a while.

Any suggestions?
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:33 AM   #2
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Yeah....no need to pull the red wire on an ESC without a built in BEC.

Maybe try a bit of Expo on your Rx to help out that low end cog.

I just my MMP1C in and really like the free Castle Link coupon! Gonna wire it up tonight!

Last edited by JeremyH; 02-25-2011 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:41 AM   #3
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Yep, i'll be using the coupon to get my free link! It's actually kind of funny because if you read through the manual there is a place where it says the MMP comes with the Castle Link.... but it actually doesn't you have to order it.

I have tried some adjustments on the Rx, i'll keep working through it.
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:05 AM   #4
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wired my buddies MMP + 18.5Goat last week and had same problem.

youll need the link and software to change it but theres a setting called 'startup power' or 'startup' .... Ill be honest I cant remember the exact term.

he had the same thing on his goat so I changed that setting to a higher one, his cog disappeared.

you need to increase to amount of power the motor gets from the esc at first throttle. its like what we do with the Tekin RS and the minimum drive setting.

hope that helps ......
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:40 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concretejungle View Post
It's actually kind of funny because if you read through the manual there is a place where it says the MMP comes with the Castle Link.... but it actually doesn't you have to order it.
I am sure that they just used the same manual and box as the old MMPs, and just put a sticker on the box. The old MMPs had a built in castle link.
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:40 AM   #6
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Thanks!!
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:49 AM   #7
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Yep, just increase the start power and you should get rid of that cogging. The Novak Ballistic motors tend to cog a little more than others in my opinion, probably because of the increased rotor size.
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Old 02-25-2011, 11:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyH View Post
I am sure that they just used the same manual and box as the old MMPs, and just put a sticker on the box. The old MMPs had a built in castle link.
You are right cause the box came as the MMP box and then had a sticker on it! When i first pulled out the box i thought "oh crap they sent the wrong thing", but then i saw the sticker.
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:19 PM   #9
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Robbob is right, you've got to set the start power on "high" and the throttle curve to start at 10%. At least that how I've got my MMP set, I do run 4s and a 21.5 so your throttle curve my be different. I tried throttle setting from 5-20% and 10 seams to be the smoothest. Use the CHEAT mode also.
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:28 PM   #10
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I moved this over to the Electronics Forum, thinking more than just Losi drivers would like to know this information.
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:32 PM   #11
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Well my first impressions are not very good. I have a lot of low end cogging! I don't have the CC link yet, but my LHS did; so i had him hook it up. We set (i think, he didn't act really sure of what he was doing) the throttle curve to start at 10%. We kept it linear. Also have the start and reverse power on high.

I didn't even run one 3s 1300 mah pack and the motor was getting really warm. Also, if i would climb and obstacle, it would cog and bind going up and almost lurch once you got on top.

The Goat 3s was WAAAAAAYY smoother than this when it worked! I guess i really need to tune the MMP better?

I figured since this was on a LCC it should be in the LCC section. My bad.
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Old 02-25-2011, 03:34 PM   #12
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Oh, i figured i would put a few pictures of it up just for those looking. She's a beaut'
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Old 02-25-2011, 05:11 PM   #13
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Do you have the newest firmware installed that helped cogging and do you have it set on sensor only mode?
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Old 02-25-2011, 05:20 PM   #14
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Pretty sure when the LHS plugged it in it updated the firmware. I can't be 100% yet because i dont have my own link to double check.

I am also pretty sure it's in sensor mode since that is the default setting.
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Old 02-25-2011, 05:25 PM   #15
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Have you tried a different motor or smaller pinion?
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Old 02-25-2011, 05:52 PM   #16
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Whats The Cheat mode all about?
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:08 PM   #17
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Its a boost setting
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:06 PM   #18
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I have not. The guy at my LHS asked the same question. I'm running a 13T which was perfect for the Goat. Think i should go smaller?
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:20 PM   #19
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Maybe try a 12 but I really don't think it'll take care of the cogging. Try recalibrating the esc/transmitter.
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:05 PM   #20
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OK, figured it out! Duhhhhhhhhh today when we were setting it up with the CClink at the LHS, the sensor wire got unseated. Just noticed it and seated it completely. Now it's like a tractor!!
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