10-26-2011, 03:54 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: arcadia
Posts: 240
| Cleaning motors
What does everyone use for motor cleaner? Is carb cleaner ok,brake clean, whats the difference b/w them if there is one? My excuse for lhs does not carry nothing along these lines. Don't want to hurt my hhmtm. |
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10-26-2011, 03:56 PM | #2 |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
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A complete teardown and warm water and dish soap with a tooth brush. I used motor spray in the past but compared to the aforementioned, no comparison. |
10-26-2011, 04:07 PM | #3 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: arcadia
Posts: 240
| Quote:
How do I know if I need new brushes? Is there a length spec or something? | |
10-26-2011, 04:11 PM | #4 |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
Posts: 18,928
| Probably, but I don't know it. I never go past a third missing for mine, or half missing for other people's that I would work on. It's not the brush that's the problem, but the change in spring tension, as it gets less and less as the brush wears down, which can change the drag brake performance, among other things.
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10-26-2011, 05:04 PM | #5 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA
Posts: 8,314
| Quote:
When the brush wears: 1-Brush/spring tension drops (thus mechanical drag brake drops) 2-The angle of the brush changes, thus the timing of the motor changes. 3-ESC current to the motor is based on side contact of the brush to the brush hood......short brushes means less contact area thus less ampacity. How short is too short....depends. I would look at an assembled motor and see how much space is between the brush spring and the bottom of the brush hood slot. When you get close to ~1/16th" clearance, it's about time to change brushes. | |
10-26-2011, 05:14 PM | #6 |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
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10-26-2011, 05:18 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA
Posts: 8,314
| Bite me...... Ampacity - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Now, go infract yourself, again....... PS: I work in the UPS battery related industry, I'm among the last guys to call out on some of this......Not picking/boasting, just saying..... All in jest, except for the ampacity bit.......... |
10-26-2011, 05:18 PM | #8 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: arcadia
Posts: 240
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Ok I'm following ya so far.... Now before I take this booger apart any tips or tricks on disassembly and reassembly? Sorry for being such a noob, I just don't want to mess up my motor as I do not have the money for a new one. Thanks for all the help. |
10-26-2011, 05:26 PM | #9 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA
Posts: 8,314
| Quote:
Yes, make a mark so you align the endbell to the motor can (thus the magnets) later on. This maintains your current motor timing. There are spacers/washers on the armature (the spiney thing inside the motor) on each end. Some "may" get grabbed by the magnets. Try to keep track of which ones are on each end of the arm (Arm = armature......I'm lazy, hate to type too much......) Try to find a local that deals with brushed motors, they can be a great resource. | |
10-26-2011, 05:30 PM | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
Posts: 2,303
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I am really close to having a full guide on rebuild.....gonna need an editor to make it sound all nice. (anyone who wants to help and has experience, PM me) To answer some of your question, carb cleaner is BAD news for our little motors. If you are stuck with only an auto part store, look for the CRC contact cleaner....if they don't have that, non-chlorinated brake cleaner can work... Or do a search for how to use mineral spirits.... Soap and water works great, specifically lysol bathroom cleaner. Every motor that comes in for a rebuild to me gets clean like this Lysol and Water... Compressed Air Ultrasonic Cleaner (except armature) Compressed Air Mineral Spirit spray Compressed Air Brush Length I usually don't like them to lose 20-25% of their length.... Later EddieO Last edited by EddieO; 10-26-2011 at 05:38 PM. |
10-26-2011, 05:42 PM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
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10-26-2011, 05:59 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: arcadia
Posts: 240
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Well I found one of the wires coming off the brush to be very frayed,ended up breaking it. What kind of brush do I need? I have a 22 turn Holmes mini torque master. It seems you guys rebuild these,how much is going rate? Does it look like it needs turned? |
10-26-2011, 06:10 PM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16,952
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10-26-2011, 06:25 PM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: arcadia
Posts: 240
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With brushes? Is trueing the comm part of that or extra? |
10-26-2011, 06:55 PM | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: I miss Rowdy
Posts: 2,238
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Just send that little guy in to Holmes Hobbies. John does rebuilding. He will cut the comm, install new brushes, tweak brush hoods and whatever else needs to be done. Its not that expensive either. |
10-26-2011, 07:53 PM | #16 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA
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EddieO, maybe I can help out. diggindeep, it costs me ~$2 to refurbish my motors. Then again, I already own a comm lathe, motor cleaners, etc. The shunt (the braided wire from the motor to the brush) carries very little current, most is from the brush/brush hood contact area. I wouldn't worry too much, it still works. |
10-26-2011, 08:10 PM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: arcadia
Posts: 240
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Gonna go to Holmes.
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