RCCrawler Forums

Got Rocks? · 06-19-2006, 12:06 AM

ok its a newbish question but is my motor supposed to be sparking inside and my 55 has like 0 power with a 1500mah pack and 87spur and 15t pinion so what is going on?

Trikster · 06-19-2006, 12:12 AM

Possibly need to clean the com and/or brushes. Is there any other arching someplace else? When I raced touring cars, I had an older LRP ESC get hot enough to slightly melt the solder at the contact point and arc it across to the adjacent solder point. The ESC still worked, but the amp draw was a lot higher, it and the motor got really hot and the battery either heated up a ton (at times) and lacked punch.

Got Rocks? · 06-19-2006, 12:15 AM

seems to be arching at the top i have never noticed it before and i drive in the dark all the time when i first got the motor it made a click noisewas gona take it back but hobbyshop closed down not too long after

i will try cleaning it what would ya suggest to use to clean it?

TLTCrawlin · 06-19-2006, 12:28 AM

Like I said on MSN earlier, CUT the comm by a lathe at the LHS/rc race track, and get new brushes while your in the motor working mode!!!

Trikster · 06-19-2006, 01:25 AM

To do a basic clean (ClodCrawlin has the better clean with the cut; you don't neccessarily have to replace the brushes unless they are burnt or scorched, by not changing them, the brushes have less time needed to conform to the new Com shape) you need electric motor cleaner or denatured alcohol, bearing or bushing oil (depends on what the motor has, don't use bearing oil on a bushing and vice versa) and the above mentioned eraser. Cut the eraser to match the brush square hole and while it is wet, manually spin the motor with the eraser pushing against the com. I usually keep the pinion on to help grip the armeture to rotate it. Do this until either the com is nice and shiny again or the eraser comes out clean. Usually you will have one and the other.

If you decide to cut the com, make sure you have someone who really knows what they are doing as i have seen a lot of hacks out there cut way to much off a com. Easiest way I have seen to keep cutting to a minimum is to use a sharpie marker on the com first. This totally blackens the com. Then when you start cutting, you can see exactly the area you have cut so far. Another nice thing is if your com is slightly out of round, this technique will help you see where the low spots are so you can adjust your cutting depth accordingly. As a side effect, the sharpie ink will act as a lubricant to the cutting tool (to an extent, working in the pits between heats when you don't have a ton of time) so it doesn't heat up.

Hope this is helpful. Following the above procedure I had one Stock motor last an entire season on the same armeture and brushes. I put over 50 runs on the motor before retiring it. The armeture was still OK (but the com was getting small) but the brushes and magnets were gone. I used a drop of oil on each bushing every other run during practice and every run during heats and a drop of Tribo com drops every third run or so. Still do and I rarely have to buy motors.

BrandonW · 06-19-2006, 10:40 AM

save yourself the hassle of cutting and cleaning just buy a new motor they are 20 bucks.

Got Rocks? · 06-19-2006, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noob_superman

save yourself the hassle of cutting and cleaning just buy a new motor they are 20 bucks.

im gona tear it apart first then if it still dont work ill get another

EeePee · 06-19-2006, 02:23 PM

I dip my motors while running at a low speed in a cup of soapy water for a few minutes. Then dry it. Then lube the bearings. Then comm stick the comm, and brushes. Then go beat on it. Seems to help.

Check out my little video. Smoking like crazy, and I'm flooring it the whole time. That motor came back to full power afterwards.

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=74110

06-19-2006, 12:06 AM	#1
Got Rocks? RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Provo Posts: 1,868	55t motor promblems ok its a newbish question but is my motor supposed to be sparking inside and my 55 has like 0 power with a 1500mah pack and 87spur and 15t pinion so what is going on?

06-19-2006, 02:23 PM	#8
EeePee MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 18,928	I dip my motors while running at a low speed in a cup of soapy water for a few minutes. Then dry it. Then lube the bearings. Then comm stick the comm, and brushes. Then go beat on it. Seems to help. Check out my little video. Smoking like crazy, and I'm flooring it the whole time. That motor came back to full power afterwards. http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=74110 Last edited by EeePee; 06-19-2006 at 02:27 PM.

06-19-2006, 12:12 AM	#2
Trikster RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: Roseville Posts: 1,469	Possibly need to clean the com and/or brushes. Is there any other arching someplace else? When I raced touring cars, I had an older LRP ESC get hot enough to slightly melt the solder at the contact point and arc it across to the adjacent solder point. The ESC still worked, but the amp draw was a lot higher, it and the motor got really hot and the battery either heated up a ton (at times) and lacked punch.

06-19-2006, 12:15 AM	#3
Got Rocks? RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Provo Posts: 1,868	seems to be arching at the top i have never noticed it before and i drive in the dark all the time when i first got the motor it made a click noisewas gona take it back but hobbyshop closed down not too long after i will try cleaning it what would ya suggest to use to clean it?

06-19-2006, 12:28 AM	#4
TLTCrawlin I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Eastern WA Posts: 2,489	Like I said on MSN earlier, CUT the comm by a lathe at the LHS/rc race track, and get new brushes while your in the motor working mode!!!

06-19-2006, 01:25 AM	#5
Trikster RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: Roseville Posts: 1,469	To do a basic clean (ClodCrawlin has the better clean with the cut; you don't neccessarily have to replace the brushes unless they are burnt or scorched, by not changing them, the brushes have less time needed to conform to the new Com shape) you need electric motor cleaner or denatured alcohol, bearing or bushing oil (depends on what the motor has, don't use bearing oil on a bushing and vice versa) and the above mentioned eraser. Cut the eraser to match the brush square hole and while it is wet, manually spin the motor with the eraser pushing against the com. I usually keep the pinion on to help grip the armeture to rotate it. Do this until either the com is nice and shiny again or the eraser comes out clean. Usually you will have one and the other. If you decide to cut the com, make sure you have someone who really knows what they are doing as i have seen a lot of hacks out there cut way to much off a com. Easiest way I have seen to keep cutting to a minimum is to use a sharpie marker on the com first. This totally blackens the com. Then when you start cutting, you can see exactly the area you have cut so far. Another nice thing is if your com is slightly out of round, this technique will help you see where the low spots are so you can adjust your cutting depth accordingly. As a side effect, the sharpie ink will act as a lubricant to the cutting tool (to an extent, working in the pits between heats when you don't have a ton of time) so it doesn't heat up. Hope this is helpful. Following the above procedure I had one Stock motor last an entire season on the same armeture and brushes. I put over 50 runs on the motor before retiring it. The armeture was still OK (but the com was getting small) but the brushes and magnets were gone. I used a drop of oil on each bushing every other run during practice and every run during heats and a drop of Tribo com drops every third run or so. Still do and I rarely have to buy motors.

06-19-2006, 10:40 AM	#6
BrandonW RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: USA Posts: 1,043	save yourself the hassle of cutting and cleaning just buy a new motor they are 20 bucks.

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