Burning up MOtors HELP

[Pegasix]

the rig.
scx10 based with
Axial wraith axles stock gears with aluminum bolt ons and a locker.
scx10 trans with an 89 tooth spur
12T pinion
MIP shafts
2.2 TSL swampers
running 4 wheel steer with dual savox sc-1267SG servos.
Futaba 4PL
and some cheap glitch buster on the Batt of the RX
and an axial AE2


the problem.

the truck is Glitchy i understand that its due to the dual servos

but every time i go out i get maybe an hour out of the rig before i start to smell the smoke being let out of the motor.
i have killed an axial 55t a novak 55t and now today an integy 55T motor

i want to upgrade the motor and esc to eliminate this problem every one says holmes hobbies but there sold out of the Holmes 35t TorqueMaster Pro and Holmes BRXL

if anyone can enlighten me on why i keep burning up motors / over heating ESC's i would appreciate it as awell as a good alternative to the HH stuff as i cant locate it online. maybe a castle product better then the AE2?????
i have Lots of Room to put anything under my hilux cab

***NOTE THIS IS A ROCK CRAWLER ONLY NO TRAIL RUNS NO WATER ON THE ROCKS ONLY***

[jvella]

Are you using tamiya connectors or deans? Deans connectors are much more prefered

[Pegasix]

ive got deans on esc and batt. i am running 2S 4400MAH lipos

[Kratos]

Binding? Getting in and out of really tight jams can torch a motor,

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Kratos

Binding? Getting in and out of really tight jams can torch a motor,

+1.

1-Binding in the drivetrain?
2-Gear mesh (motor to spur) too tight?

I don't really know what is good gearing, is it overgeared? Does the ESC get hot as well?

[Pegasix]

the drive train spins freely there is no binding there

as for binding up the truck in a tight spot yesterdays motor failed before i got it into the tight stuff. my 100% stock scx10 did the same run with ease

as for gear mesh it actually has a bit more play then id like. and YES the ESC gets hot aswell.



this is where it failed it was climbing up to the rocks in the center

[Draggermirage]

Timing on the motors?

Make sure it at least has advanced timing for the rotation you're using if not zeroed out.

Other than that, make sure that the motor leads (tabs, wires, brush braids, etc) are not touching the chassis anywhere.

Marcus

[EddieO]

Since you've fried 3 different brands of motors......especially something as tame as a 55t motor, I am gonna venture to say something is wrong in the drivetrain. There is not much that could be wrong with an ESC that could cause this.

That really just leaves the drivetrain. It could be something as simple as gear mesh or much more complicated like a bind some where in the tranny or axle.

There is always the weird scenario of something shorting the endbell like a link or something. Make sure at full extension, nothing is coming in contact with the endbell.

Later EddieO

[Pegasix]

ESC is still Crazy hot. and the motor is heating up.


there was a slight bit more tension in the trans then i wanted but i cleared that up as my MIP shafts were rubbing the spur gear cover so i cut that out it all spins freely now the motor has 4 locations for wires the 2 non used terminals 1 was actually touching a screw in the frame. so that has been clearanced no more issues there the rear of the motor is not touching anything and there is by no means anyway that the links can hit the rear of the motor.

but its still getting HOT and both diffs spinn freely with no issues. there was a slight bind in the drive shafts at FULL extension so i tossed on a shorter set of shocks to act as a limiting strap to help with this and no there is no drive shaft bind but the damn motor is getting HOT

89 spur / 20 pinion is what i used today il try my 89 and 14 and see if that does anything

if anyone has more suggestions please make them

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Identity_Crisis

ESC is still Crazy hot and the motor is heating up.

There was a slight bit more tension in the trans then I wanted, but I cleared that up as my MIP shafts were rubbing the spur gear cover. I cut that out, it all spins freely now.
The motor has 4 locations for wires, the 2 non used terminals 1 was actually touching a screw in the frame. That has been clearanced, no more issues there.
The rear of the motor is not touching anything and there is by no means anyway that the links can hit the rear of the motor.

It's still getting HOT and both diffs spin freely with no issues. There was a slight bind in the drive shafts at FULL extension so I tossed on a shorter set of shocks to act as a limiting strap to help with this and no, there is no drive shaft bind but the damn motor is getting HOT

89 spur / 20 pinion is what I used today I'll try my 89 and 14 and see if that does anything if anyone has more suggestions please make them

STOP!!!! in your 1st post you stated you had a 89T spur 12T pinion, now you're using a higher tooth count on the pinion... this is overgearing!!
With the work you did, try the original 89/12 combination again!

Either go to a larger spur, or a smaller pinion.....if the rig is too slow, either up the pack voltage (assuming the ESC can handle it) or get a faster motor (40-45 turn).

[ik632]

Also make sure to check your gear mesh. Easiest way is to stick a piece of paper in there and then push the motor until it crushes the paper. Then tighten down the screws. I then check to make sure there's just a little play back and forth.

[jvella]

Are you using OD gears?

[onebigyota]

my friend just bought a scx10 rtr and the motor in that is over heating. The front drive shaft is binding really bad

[TrickyRicky]

Your tires are to flat causing way to much drag I once did the same thing and no gearing fixed it. plus it wont side hill that flat.

[Pegasix]

ya i tossed on the 89/20 just to see if it made a difference. and it didn't. the 89/12 is back on the rig

as for axle gearing its stock wraith gears in them as for to slow the 89/12 and a 55T was no issues on speed more then enough speed if you ask me for my crawling environment.

and the wheels are air filled now. the tire fold is no longer there

[ik632]

Don't use the 20t pinion any more. The 12t pinion is the one you want to stick with. If you don't have a thermometer the rule of thumb is that you should be able to stick your finger on the motor and count to 1,2,3 and not be burnt, if you pull away sooner then it's too hot. I'm sure someone has a more scientific way to estimate temp, but this is what I've done for years.

89/12 should be pretty good though. If you pull the motor and spin the tires you should feel no resistance at all. I still think it's a gear mesh issue because you can be too tight when you install the motor. You need to tighten the screws holding the motor, then check the mesh a second time, it changes as you tighten the screws.

Also, what's your driving style? Are you giving it full throttle the entire time and going from forward to reverse a ton? If you drive it hard, it will heat the motor up much more.

Another thing, do you try to turn your wheels all the way and then go? On my Wraith I have the regular dog bones in front and if I turn full lock, it binds a ton and the motor gets very upset. Try turning down your steering EPA.

[Pegasix]

my driving style is is by no means forward to revers and only full throttle if its needed where i crawl there is so much rock its more a slow technical pace but there is lots of Full lock steering.

i removed the motor and spun the wheels everything spins freely untill i max the steering. i turned down the EPA on the front and rear steering i can no be at full lock and nothing binds. i spin freely 89/12 is what i have waiting to go back on just waiting for my crawlmaster pro to show up now from holmes hobbies match that with the BRXL i picked up and hopefully all will be well again


time will tell once i get it back together and parts arrive. im sick of breaking and cutting the days short


my localness and my 12x14 crawl course in the basment

the outdoor stuff is less then 10min from my door

quarry this is only 1 of about 15 sections like this.




and the creek bed

[isawul00k]

I have a wraith and am having the same issue. i have used my current setup on alot of rigs and its fine.

is the gear ratio different in the ax10 vs wraith.

89/14, 27T DW KCS Motor, Sidewinder ESC

smoke my motor last weekend.

[transambill]

Originally Posted by Identity_Crisis

the rig.
scx10 based with
Axial wraith axles stock gears with aluminum bolt ons and a locker.
scx10 trans with an 89 tooth spur
12T pinion
MIP shafts
2.2 TSL swampers
running 4 wheel steer with dual savox sc-1267SG servos.
Futaba 4PL
and some cheap glitch buster on the Batt of the RX
and an axial AE2


the problem.

the truck is Glitchy i understand that its due to the dual servos

Couple questions, what's a glitch buster?
Are you running any kind of external bec? Both servos running power thru the rx?
I'm running a very simular set up and no glitching.
4WS with Hitec 7955 in the rear and 7954 in front, castle bec running the front servo and the HH BR-XL's internal bec on the rear.
4PL, MIP's, 2.2 TSL's. Running 32p 60 spur 12 pinion.
Never burnt up a motor but on a new build watch it closely and if any of the electronics start getting warm too early, stop and find out why. In my wraith I started with the HH 13t CM motor and it would get very warm quickly. The 4:1 gearing where it performed the best ran to hot and the 13t had to much speed for my driveing style. Went to the 16t team CM pro and on the wraith HH recommends a 5-5:5:1 ratio, stock there 4:1. I would try running in the 5:1 area and check temps.
Would also consider stepping up to 3s lipo's.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by transambill

Couple questions, what's a glitch buster?

A glitch buster is typically a large capacitor to help deal with peak loads. Not the most elegant way to do things, but it can help.