Review: MORE LED module for Vanquish Rigid Industries LED light bars

[JasonInAugusta]

Since I won the MORE giveaway in the General Scale forum, I figured the least I could do was a write-up that will provide some good info for those that are interested.

If you're in the dark and don't know what I'm talking about, go here and have a look in the Vendor's Forum: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vendo...ore-light.html

Today the LED module arrived. When asked what size I wanted, I chose the 5" since that's the only Vanquish bar I have, and it's mounted on my 1.9 Wroncho hybrid.



The LED module came in a small USPS box and was well packed in bubble wrap with a couple of sets of MORE decals. There was NO movement in the box.


I removed the bubble wrap and I found not one, but TWO LED modules. A 5" as well as a 6"! Also included was a syringe with thermal compound that is used to help transfer heat from the LED module to the finned aluminum Vanquish housing. When it comes time to apply the thermal compound the red cap gets removed and the purple precision applicator is installed. The channel in the VP housing is small and the precision applicator is very useful.


I did a quick (about 10 seconds) test to make sure the MORE LED module was 100% before I started work. With the MORE module connected to the adjustable output on the power supply I found the module would come on and produce good, usable light at 5.5V. So, while the module is rated for 3S Li-Po, you could under-power these units and still have plenty of light output.

The MORE module is on the hood, the Vanquish Rigid Industries LED bar is mounted up top. The 5" Vanquish LED module has rated output of 75 lumen, the 5" MORE LED module has a rated output of 625 lumens. That's not a typo. Six hundred and twenty-five.


Let's get started. Below is the full text of the MORE Emitter Module instructions. I've highlighted a couple of key areas.

Throughout my installation images and walk-through I'm going to give a number of links to some Wiki pages where you can get some detailed info on what, exactly you're dealing with here. I want people to understand that these ARE NOT your average LED assemblies and there are steps that need to be taken that wouldn't be required with a "normal" LED strip. Installation and fitment is important to ensure the LEDs have a long service life, as is the understanding that a Vanquish Rigid Industries light bar with the MORE emitter module conversion can and will burn you.

WARNING: Under normal operation the Emitter and Housing will run in excess of 150°F and potentially cause burns, keep away from children.


1. Remove the 4 SHCS fasteners on both end caps using a 1.3mm/0.050” hex tool.

2. Modify both end caps using a small jeweler’s file or a Dremel with a thin cut-off disc. Remove material identified in RED, down to the surface identified in YELLOW (Refer to Figure A). Refer to Figure B to see what the completed material removal should look like.

Figure A


Figure B


3. Test fit the Emitter module into the extrusion by carefully sliding it into the machined slot in the housing. There should be some resistance as a tight fit is preferred. If the Emitter module will not slide in without force, remove the SHCS fasteners on one side of the housing and again test the fit.

4. Verify the modifications performed in step 1. With the Emitter module in the extrusion, fasten both end caps. The module should slide into the end caps with the PCB sitting under the edge (traces should not be touching the aluminum cap). If the end caps do not seat fully against the housing, verify the modification performed in step 1 was performed correctly.

5. Remove the module and fasten the end cap opposite to the wire inlet, generously apply heat sink compound to the Emitter module slot (in housing) sides and bottom surfaces and inside the end caps where the module contacts.

NOTE: The heat sink compound is required, if it is not used the Emitters will overheat and burn-out.

6. Feed the wires through the wire side end cap and loosely fasten to the housing. If it was necessary to remove one side if the fasteners (step 3) reinstall them now, and tighten the end cap fasteners.

NOTE: The Module is designed to operate using a 3S LiPo battery, exceeding 12.6V will cause the EMITTERS to overheat.

NOTE: The Module consumes much more current than standard LED’s, care must be taken to ensure that LiPo’s are not over discharged as damage to the battery will occur.

So, with the instructions in hand as a guide, I got started. I included plenty of pics of the process. Should be easy to follow along.

Remove the LED bar from your rig


Remove the 4 SHCS fasteners on both end caps using a 1.3mm/0.050” hex tool. Remove the end caps.


Slide the stock Vanquish LED module out of the housing.


With the end caps removed, test fit the MORE LED module into the Vanquish housing. The test fit is required and it will be normal to have to do a little work to make the MORE module slide into the Vanquish housing. The LEDs (MORE refers to them as emitters, but "LEDs" is faster to type. ) are Light Emitting Diodes. If you're not familiar with what a LED is or how it works, Wikipedia has a good bit of info. The reason you should pay attention to the test fit, and the reason a tight (not gorilla) fit is preferred is because LEDs are semiconductor devices and heat is a semiconductor's worst enemy. Since the Vanquish Rigid Industries LED bar is made from extruded aluminum, it's perfect for a high-performance LED module.

Why? Because in normal operation high-performance LEDs get hot. Without a good way to transfer the heat generated by the LEDs away from the LEDs they will die. It won't be a spectacular, hot, fiery death but it will be hot. And will be death to the LEDs. Not good. So a heat sink is used to transfer heat from semiconductors (remember, LEDs are a semiconductor). The Rigid Industries LED light bars used on 1:1 vehicles have the same finned aluminum housing as found on the scale Vanquish units. On the 1:1 light bars the finned housing is pulling heat from the LED assemblies and transferring it to the air. On the small Vanquish Rigid Industries LED bar there's not much heat to worry about. The 5" Vanquish LED module has a rated output of 75 lumens. While bright, the LEDs don't get hot enough to actually make use of the functional heat sink provided by the extruded aluminum housing. The MORE LED module will put the functional heat sink design of the Vanquish housing to use and a good, tight fit between the LED module and the housing will help transfer heat from the LED module to the Vanquish housing.

[JasonInAugusta]

When I did my test fit the MORE module wouldn't go into the Vanquish housing from either end. It hit the first set of screws and stopped there. Instead of removing all of the screws on either the top or bottom of the housing, I decided to break out a sanding pad and lightly sand each side of the LED module. I probably went though 10 or more attempts at lightly sanding the LED module and test fitting it into the housing until it slid in with some force but not enough to warrant hitting it with a BFH. Just firm, even pressure is all it should take. No need to tap it on the workbench or anything like that.


Finally I was to a point where it took a good bit of pressure to get the module into the Vanquish housing. If you do like l did and lightly sand the top and bottom edges of the MORE module, be sure to clean any filings/shavings from the module. Compressed air will do. No compressor? Blow on it. That'll do as well.


Happy with the fit of the MORE module in the main extruded housing, I turned my attention to the two end caps. This is Step 2 in the MORE instructions.
I used a thin cut-off wheel in the Dremel to modify the end caps. Not the thick, reinforced cut-off wheel, but the thin, usually useless pieces of crap that mount on the mandrel with a flat head screw and break into a dozen pieces if you look at them wrong.

The item you need is on the right in this image.


The thin cutoff wheel and a small file worked fine for cutting the two main portions marked in red in the first post, but for the small portion of the flange around the mounting screw hole that need to be removed, I used a small Dremel engraving bit. I think it's a No. 107 bit. Anyway, follow MORE's instructions for the end caps and test fit the end cap without the wire inlet. If it fits flush against the main portion of the Vanquish housing and fits over the MORE module you're done with that cap. Repeat the process for the end cap with the wire inlet.

With the MORE LED module in the Vanquish housing, tighten the screws on both end caps to verify that everything fits properly. If either cap doesn't fully seat, work on that cap and try again.

Disassemble the entire unit and blow any dirt or debris from the pieces. Use the included precision applicator with the thermal compound and apply the compound into the slots you cut into both end caps.


Also apply the thermal compound into the top and bottom channels of the main extruded housing as well as the flat portions of the housing. Basically any surface where the module will contact the housing is where you want thermal compound. After I applied the thermal compound I slid the module in and out a couple of times to more evenly spread the compound.


To see how well the thermal compound is spread between the LED module and the Vanquish housing, take a look at both the Vanquish housing (above) and the back side of the MORE module.


When you've thoroughly covered the contact areas between the Vanquish housing and the MORE module with thermal compound, install the two end caps.

TIP: If you plan to run your wiring along the A-pillar, put a piece of 1/8" heat shrink on the wires and shrink it down BEFORE you install the end cap with the wire inlet. This really hides the wiring along the A-Pillar and is much cleaner looking than trying to just slide heat shrink up to the end cap.

Installed on the vehicle. Notice how the heat shrink hides the cabling along the A-pillar. Also notice how symmetrical the MORE module is with the Vanquish LED Bar. Each LED is centered on screws in the housing. Way cool.

[JasonInAugusta]

With everything assembled I headed for the back yard.

I used clear packing tape to stick the stock Vanquish LED strip in place on the light bar and powered the strip off a freshly charged 3S pack. After taking the shot with the stock Vanquish LED strip I pulled it off and shot the MORE module.

Distance from the LED bar to the Ultra 4 (and the fence) in these photos was measured at 36 feet. I shot the images with my Canon 7D in manual mode and didn't worry too much about getting the settings perfect, but instead focused the camera on the Ultra 4 on the other side of the yard. The exact same camera settings were used for both photos.

Stock 75 lumen Vanquish LED strip



625 lumen MORE module. Yeah, I need to mow.



Saying these are bright is an understatement. They're the brightest LED lighting made for our crawlers. This 5" bar has an output of 625 lumens. That's 125 lumens per inch.

Think about that. A 1" MORE module will have an output of 125 lumens.

The ENTIRE 6" Vanquish LED strip has an output of 90 lumens. The 5" strip that I replaced has 75 lumens. (15 lumens per inch with the stock Vanquish LED strips)

Now, as I mentioned earlier, high-output LEDs will create heat. A lot of heat. When it comes to high-output LEDS CREE is THE LED manufacturer. It is CREE LEDs that are used in the MORE modules, which pretty much makes these units the Bugatti Veyron of LED bars.

How so?

It's a little-known fact that the engine in the Bugatti Veyron actually produces more than 1.000hp. Much more. It actually produces 3,000hp, but 2,000 of those 3,000 horsepower are generated as heat and the first time the engine was dyno tested it almost burnt down the building housing the dyno.

Now, after you've most likely spent 45 minutes watching that entire Bugatti video (admit it) you're probably thinking you're not going to burn down a building with a MORE-equipped light bar, and you won't - but will find that it gets hot. Very hot. For some of us, this might pose a problem.

After I had finished assembly and mounted the completed LED bar on my Wroncho, I let it sit, powered by a 12V power supply, for 30 minutes.

After those 30 minutes I got out my temp gun and took some measurements. I found the actual LED bar to be about 180 degrees. The back side of the Vanquish housing (the heat sink) was in the mid to high 170s. The ambient air temp was 86 degrees and there was no air movement over the LED bar.

If you haven't figured out where I'm going with this, think about how you usually pick up your crawler. Most of us reach down and grab them without really thinking about where, exactly, we're grabbing.

But now you should. 180 degrees, remember?

This is usually how I pick up my Wraith-based Ultra 4s and the 1.9 Wroncho. Usually. Probably not after today.



Conclusion up to this point?

If you already have a Vanquish Rigid Industries LED bar and want more light on your rig, this is the absolute best way to go. The MORE modules take advantage of the design of the Vanquish LED bar and put it to excellent use to provide the absolute best lighting system on the market. When I say system, I mean it. The way the MORE module is designed to integrate into and make use of the Vanquish housing is what allows the performance these things have. With the stock LED strips included with the Vanquish bars heat really isn't a concern and the cool finned housing is more of a cosmetic item than a functional part of a unit. The MORE module changes that and it will change the way you view night crawling from this point forward.

If you plan on installing these, you need to absolutely pay attention to the instructions. Heat transfer from the module to the Vanquish housing is important. If your module fits loosely and is free to slide around in the housing with the end caps off, you're not going to be able to efficiently transfer heat from the module to the housing - even with thermal compound slathered on. Premature failure will result.

Make sure your MORE module is a tight press fit into the channel on the housing, use thermal compound, and you should be good to go. Other than that, use caution (and make sure your children use caution) when handling the vehicle after you've been powering the MORE-equipped LED bar.

Also, I had someone ask if that 180 degree temp would transfer through the light bar mounts and melt the plastic. No, it won't. I've previously used a heat gun on these cages and it takes much higher heat than 180 degrees to deform the plastic.

I'll update as I get more time in on this unit.

[Charlie-III]

Nice write-up & tips.

"Frikkin bright" is almost an understatement!

I'm not a scaler, but these lights almost make me want something to use them for.
Do you know if you can get the VP housing by itself? (Not likely & you probably wouldn't know).

BTW, is that a "purchased" rack for your Kobalt set, or home made?? Looks nice.

[JasonInAugusta]

I know that complete housings with MORE modules has been discussed. Rumor for right now, though.

I made that rack for the file set.

[MORE]

Wow, great write-up!

When you install the 6" module , when test fitting remove one side (at a time) of the SHCS (Socket Head Cap Screws) on the housing. Since the channel in the housing was cut to expose the threads, the same exposed threads will secure the aluminum back plate of the module. When reinstalling the SHCS they will "thread" into the edge and hold the module securely, no sanding required.

[MORE]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Nice write-up & tips.

Yeah, I have to thank Jason for this great write-up! *

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

"Frikkin bright" is almost an understatement!

Company motto?

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

I'm not a scaler, but these lights almost make me want something to use them for.

This and a 3S pack on a mountain bike...

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Do you know if you can get the VP housing by itself? (Not likely & you probably wouldn't know).

Vanquish Products does not supply the Rigid industry light bar housing as a separate item, you must purchase the complete assembly. I am working on supplying completed units, stay tuned for "more" information.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by MORE

Company motto?

If you want to, go ahead, it's not copyrighted.

Of course, if I buy a set, a discount would be great!

[wrx-n-ktm]

I am just hoping for a complete M.O.R.E. unit! I don't have the vanquish one yet so I'd me more inclined to just get a complete unit.

[Jayzrc]

Amazing! Thanks for the how-to JIA. A complete unit in a few different sizes for rock lights etc. would be great!

[JasonInAugusta]

Originally Posted by wrx-n-ktm

I am just hoping for a complete M.O.R.E. unit! I don't have the vanquish one yet so I'd me more inclined to just get a complete unit.

Originally Posted by Jayzrc

Amazing! Thanks for the how-to JIA. A complete unit in a few different sizes for rock lights etc. would be great!

See below. Some truth to the rumor.

Originally Posted by MORE

Vanquish Products does not supply the Rigid industry light bar housing as a separate item, you must purchase the complete assembly. I am working on supplying completed units, stay tuned for "more" information.

[aqwik69]

I just purchased a 5" vanquish yesterday. Is there an option for us "lazy" guys to send our vanquish light bar to MORE for installation? Thanks

[MORE]

Originally Posted by aqwik69

I just purchased a 5" vanquish yesterday. Is there an option for us "lazy" guys to send our vanquish light bar to MORE for installation? Thanks

Absolutely yes.

I will install the module (for anybody) at no additional cost, and my turn-around time usually runs less than 48 hours.

[aqwik69]

Originally Posted by MORE

Absolutely yes.

I will install the module (for anybody) at no additional cost, and my turn-around time usually runs less than 48 hours.

PM sent

[nrbenz]

What is the cost of replacement LED strip? If you are willing to do the conversion at no charge that sounds hard to pass up.

[aqwik69]

Originally Posted by nrbenz

What is the cost of replacement LED strip? If you are willing to do the conversion at no charge that sounds hard to pass up.

His prices are all listed in his post in the vendor section.

[MORE]

Originally Posted by nrbenz

What is the cost of replacement LED strip? If you are willing to do the conversion at no charge that sounds hard to pass up.

This is far from a LED strip...

Originally Posted by aqwik69

His prices are all listed in his post in the vendor section.

Thanks for the assist.

[Antisimplistic]

Awesome writeup as always, Jason. Definitely will be ordering a few! I might run them on 2S just to avoid an Indiana Jones style burn in on the palm of my hand!

They do look a lot better than the stock LED arrays.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Wow, that's some light! Makes me want to build a new bike just to put a light on it.

[LIKES2CRAWL]

Could we get a comparison shot of it powered by a 2S and some lumen results and temps?