Quick help calibrating dual BR mini's with my spektrum reciever please...

[Master Basher]

I just got my smashed BR mini's from HH. The instructions on the Holmes site say NOT to hook up a battery to the esc battery input, it will mess up the other esc not plugged in... so how to I put power on my receiver? Just plug in a battery pack or some power to one of the other channels on my receiver?

Any one with experience please chime in so I don't mess up this brand new stuff.

Thanks.

[Master Basher]

There is no kind of sense to these instructions:
2.3 Connecting to the receiver
Connect the receiver lead to the throttle channel on your receiver. Do not connect a battery or
external BEC to the receiver unless the red wire is removed from the ESC’s receiver lead. Be
sure to insert plug with correct polarity.

Won't cut it... red wire removed esc don't get any power to do anything

3.1 Calibrating the ESC to YOUR transmitter
Note: When running two ESCs, they CANNOT have the battery power wires connected during
calibration or programming. It will cause problems with the second ESC.
) Remove pinion from motor to prevent accidents
2) Plug in battery
3) Hold full throttle on transmitter before ESC arms
4) ESC will beep and begin flashing red rapidly to indicate storage of full forward throttle
position
5) Hold full reverse on transmitter until beeping changes
6) ESC will beep rapidly with no lights to indicate storage of full reverse throttle position
7) Position throttle in neutral position
After about two seconds, ESC will store neutral position

I tried using a y harness with both esc's plugged into the throttle channel and a battery plugged into the esc, that way will get me a calibration of sorts... but the motors will turn without throttle input, any direction they decide to at the moment, and if I plug in either esc by itself, and plug in a battery to the receiver, because the instructions say you can't plug a battery into the esc, it won't even try to enter calibration.

Do I need to take my above calibration and just adjust both trims to get the motors not to turn with no throttle input? I'm really kind of surprised how much movement I get with no throttle input. It really seems like a mess trying to get these programmed while they are together. Any connection with one receiver plug causes the LED lights to be on on the other esc also. They simply don't want to be isolated.

JHolmes, any advice please?

Right at this moment, both esc's indicate green when going forward, red when reverse, no LED at neutral, but either motor will just go in whatever direction, at whatever time it wants when no transmitter input is applied. My dead band setting is default 1000 ms, and my arm time is 3 seconds, and my tx is a spectrum dx4s and my rx is a SR410.

If everything is turned on and nothing is turning, no LED's are illuminated, I can take my hand and turn one of the axles and it will remain turning, under power, and then the other axle will start turning under power as well. No LED is on either esc. I will have to feather the trigger back and forth gently to get both motors to stop turning. It takes a while, but I can usually get them both to stop.

Okay, so I took the Holmes Hold off and put on passive drag brake at 40% and that seems to have solved that problem for now.

Maybe this conversation with myself will help someone in the future. :-)

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

There is no kind of sense to these instructions:
2.3 Connecting to the receiver
Connect the receiver lead to the throttle channel on your receiver. Do not connect a battery or
external BEC to the receiver unless the red wire is removed from the ESC’s receiver lead. Be
sure to insert plug with correct polarity.

Won't cut it... red wire removed esc don't get any power to do anything

3.1 Calibrating the ESC to YOUR transmitter
Note: When running two ESCs, they CANNOT have the battery power wires connected during
calibration or programming. It will cause problems with the second ESC.
) Remove pinion from motor to prevent accidents
2) Plug in battery
3) Hold full throttle on transmitter before ESC arms
4) ESC will beep and begin flashing red rapidly to indicate storage of full forward throttle
position
5) Hold full reverse on transmitter until beeping changes
6) ESC will beep rapidly with no lights to indicate storage of full reverse throttle position
7) Position throttle in neutral position
After about two seconds, ESC will store neutral position

I tried using a y harness with both esc's plugged into the throttle channel and a battery plugged into the esc, that way will get me a calibration of sorts... but the motors will turn without throttle input, any direction they decide to at the moment, and if I plug in either esc by itself, and plug in a battery to the receiver, because the instructions say you can't plug a battery into the esc, it won't even try to enter calibration.

Do I need to take my above calibration and just adjust both trims to get the motors not to turn with no throttle input? I'm really kind of surprised how much movement I get with no throttle input. It really seems like a mess trying to get these programmed while they are together. Any connection with one receiver plug causes the LED lights to be on on the other esc also. They simply don't want to be isolated.

JHolmes, any advice please?

Right at this moment, both esc's indicate green when going forward, red when reverse, no LED at neutral, but either motor will just go in whatever direction, at whatever time it wants when no transmitter input is applied. My dead band setting is default 1000 ms, and my arm time is 3 seconds, and my tx is a spectrum dx4s and my rx is a SR410.

If everything is turned on and nothing is turning, no LED's are illuminated, I can take my hand and turn one of the axles and it will remain turning, under power, and then the other axle will start turning under power as well. No LED is on either esc. I will have to feather the trigger back and forth gently to get both motors to stop turning. It takes a while, but I can usually get them both to stop.

Okay, so I took the Holmes Hold off and put on passive drag brake at 40% and that seems to have solved that problem for now.

Maybe this conversation with myself will help someone in the future. :-)

Quick recap. To get this to work, I had to calibrate both ESC's together at the same time using a y-connector to the receiver, or each plug to it's own channel on the receiver. The latter is more difficult because it requires your radio already be set up correctly for two esc's. I was NOT able to calibrate each esc independently regardless of how I tried.