AM32 based mini ESC's

[Ninja77]

The rise of this technology is in full swing and the development is coming along quickly as I can read on different forums and web bases.
The commercial manufacturing of AM32 based ESC's are also up and running and available for sale on various outlets and makes the installation and programming a breeze compared from where it started a few years ago. No more flashing from BLHELI to AM32. No more soldering little tabs to access chips.
Plug in a USB-C and select your custom setting.

Now we need to get the settings language understandable or clarified so we can figure what every setting does and the inrunner/outrunner motor reactions to some different setups and settings. A learning curve for me as I am on my first outrunner dedicated ESC, a Rhino 80A on 2.01 firmware.

[JatoTheRipper]

You just explained two of the major benefits of open-source software - fast development of a good product.

AM32 sounds like Linux. Sure, it's powerful, but user-friendliness is wanting. At this point, I have no personal experience with AM32, but I am sure there are plenty of videos and lots of documentation out there to help you. I'll be watching this thread to learn myself.

[Gramps]

Guess I'm really behind the curve, I just heard about AM32 and ESCape32 when checking out some esc on DinkyRC. I'm an open source fan and will be trying one of these when I need a esc for a build.

[diezel666]

@jato - Being an Engineer and Linux System admin, I totally agree with you!!


I've played with quite a few of the AM32 ESC's as of late. While not Micro, RhinoESC has one of the best 2 on the market that I've found for the price, a 40a and 80a. The 40a does not have a BEC, which basically throws it out the window since adding a BEC to almost what I would consider a mid sized ESC makes it really lack. The 80a is absolutely small compared to other ESC's of that amperage range. Making it idea for a 1/10 crawler. The ESC config software for Rhino's and AM32's have made huge leaps in making these much more user friendly.

With that said, I've been experimenting with the DYS Aria 40a, coupled with a Castle Creations 10a BEC. This little combo is really hard to beat for 1/10 if size and weight is an absolute consideration. I'm really tempted to start pre-packaging and selling a DYS/Castle BEC combo. Sadly, the way I want to do it limits making the Castle BEC adjustable in an easy manner. But for size and weight, nothing will touch it.


A very brief walkthrough of the AM32 ESC Config Tool and Settings:



High Energy Failures on Youtube, goes over a few of the AM32 topics really well, I suggest giving their videos a look over.
https://www.youtube.com/@highenergyfailures/videos

I've tried to reduce some of the tech jargon on many of the line items here, the above videos talk about some of them in much greater detail.



Setting Check Boxes:

Reverse Rotation: This switches terminal 1/A or 3/C with each other basically. Meaning once the ESC and motor are installed together, if pressing forward on your remote sends you into reverse, check this box to revese the ESC's motor control).
(advise setting this as needed, super handy if you don't want to re-solder leads, connectors etc for the motor).


Complementary PWM: If this is off, the motor is able to Freewheel. Setting this on, the motor will actively brake when the throttle is decreased, in accordance to the level set in the Running Brake Level slider/box.
(advise to set this to on, which allows gradual reduction in motor speed instead of freewheeling).


Variable PWM: This allows the ESC to adjust the PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) of the drive signal sent to the motor automatically.
(advise to set this to on).


Bi-Directional: Forward and Reverse, instead of Forward only as a drone would use.
(advise to set this to on, since you'll likely want Reverse).


Stuck Rotor Protection: Will cut power to the motor if the ESC senses the motor is stalled physically, within preset values contained with the ESC. Generally under 10% throttle.
(advise leaving this off, as it may accidentally trigger during low throttle).


Brake On Stop: Work like Hill Hold in a modern vehicle. Applies a percentage of power to the motor, controlled by setting slider/box: Stopped Brake Level.
(advise setting this to on, because who doesn't want Hill Hold).


Stall Protection: Keeps the motor moving in the event of an increase in load @ steady ESC input vs motor RPM.
(advise keeping this on as we're crawling and will see increased load that could be seen as a stall and the ESC will work to maintain RPM).


Sinusoidal Startup: This setting basically forces the ESC and motor to work at lower speeds, where the Back EMF of the motor is likely unable to be read and used.
(advise this being set to on as well).


30 ms Telemetry: Enables a Telemetry output on the serial line every 30ms.
(advise setting this only if your setup can handle it).


Use Hall Sensor: This setting is deprecated, do not use. Additional hardware is needed that (at the time of this writing, all AM32 ESC's do not have).
(This would make the ESC function as a traditional Brushless Sensored ESC).




Silder settings:


Timing Advance: Works just like in a combustion engine. The advance of timing allows the ESC to set the trigger of the next pulse to rotate the motor when it comes into alignment of the magnetic pole.
(suggest leaving this at 15* unless you're really getting into the nitty gritty of tuning for a specific motor and setup and trying to control temperature of the motor - certain motors are better than others with this).


Motor KV: Self explanatory. You want this to match your motor KV size as much as possible. This will bias the AM32 firm/software to bias Maximum Accerlation, Ramp up Power, Low RPM throttle protection (like BL_Heli), which AM32 rolls into one setting.
(advice to set this to match your motor as closely as possbible, setting it lower than the KV of your motor reduces limits and may actually give your curent motor more "punch").


Motor Poles: The ESC needs to know how many poles (magnets) the motor has. RPM calculations within the ESC need to know this. Sine mode relies on this as it's a Brute Force method from the ESC to maintain a targeted RPM regardless of load or motor back EMF.
(advise setting this to match the number of magnets in your motor).


Startup Power: Sets a floor of the Lowest value that will move the motor if stopped, plus a small boost.
(advise leaving this at 100, unless you have a magnetically strong motor that needs a higher level to get the motor spinning and have smooth throttle response).


PWM Frequency: Is exactly as states, it's the frequency in khz of which switching of the Pulse Width Modulation will start. There is mostly no need to adjust this frequency.
(advise leaving this at 24, and using Variable PWM which assists in lower the chance of motor cogging, unless having weird motor issues then try 48 or higher).


Beep Volume: Self explanatory. The ESC sends a pulse to the motor to make it sound like a beep or chime during power up, cell confirmation, and programming mode functions.
(advise to leave this at the stock setting of 5, unless you have hearing issues or commonly operate your crawler in high noise environments).


Stopped Brake Level: This is only live if the "Brake on Stop" box is checked. The level of force (drag brake style) is adjustable from 0-10. 0 = 10% which will feel almost like freewheeling, 10 is Maximum force of the ESC, tying output mosfets together to "short" the motor and apply the electricity generated by the spinning motor against itself basically.
(advise setting this to your level of need, and trying to keep this as low as needed to reduce jerkiness of the throttle).


Sine Startup Range: The number value here is % of throttle input that the ESC will provide sine mode output to the motor.
(advice this setting to be what you need, while keeping an eye on ESC and Motor temp as this is hard on both).


Sine Mode Power: This is the max amount of power a motor will receive from the ESC in Sine Mode. Again this is a brute force mode which could cause ESC or Motor failure.
(advise setting this reasonably to what you need not what you want).


Running Brake Level: This only works with Complementary PWM enabled, and if enabled this applies a percentage of power from the ESC to actively apply braking effort to the motor.
(advise setting this as needed, personally I keep this low to reduce sudden hard stops while manipulating throttle in tough spots).

[cooper_xl]

It is a win-win situation for manufacturers..the worst part from doing ESCs is handled by volunteers and they update the firmware weekly

[cooper_xl]

Originally Posted by diezel666

@jato - Being an Engineer and Linux System admin, I totally agree with you!!

Thanks for the thorough explanation!

[diezel666]

Originally Posted by cooper_xl

Thanks for the thorough explanation!

Thanks, and you're welcome. Hopefully it helps people out.

Feel free to ask questions!


I've dove in eyeballs deep into the AM32 world, including reflashing BL_Heli ESC's and testing them for crawling. So far I've learned quite a lot, and learned that not every 32 bit MCU ESC is made equal, that's for sure! Just because you can put AM32 on it, doesn't mean it works well at all.

[cooper_xl]

I first got an HakRC 45a ESC mated to a 3530 1000kv and that was a letdown. First, the work to flash AM32, then the low rpms were not what I was expecting. Seeing your explanation, I wonder if was the Stall Protection that made those glitches ...

Now, I have a have another ESC, already with AM32 and a USB dongle that should make life easier. I just need to solder a capacitor and the rest of the wires. This will be running a 9imod 3542 1400kv

[diezel666]

Originally Posted by cooper_xl

I first got an HakRC 45a ESC mated to a 3530 1000kv and that was a letdown. First, the work to flash AM32, then the low rpms were not what I was expecting. Seeing your explanation, I wonder if was the Stall Protection that made those glitches ...

Now, I have a have another ESC, already with AM32 and a USB dongle that should make life easier. I just need to solder a capacitor and the rest of the wires. This will be running a 9imod 3542 1400kv

That is highly possible.

I will also attempt to preface this carefully. I've got 10 different brushless motors from 1400kv up to 3300kv, that I test all my ESC's on in varying rigs. Including one that has a 9imod 1800kv motor.

You really do get what you pay for here. I have 4 different 1800kv motors including a 9imod one, and it's the mediocre motor that I beat up cause I just don't care if I nuke it. Yet, I feel it's better quality and gives more feed back than my BadAss 2315-1800kv or my PropDrive 28-36 1800kv, which allows me to more accurately judge the ESC's performance before placing in a better rig and really giving it a go.

That said, on all my rigs that I run routinely, I run Holmes Hobbies Team Spec motors in them.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by diezel666

@jato - Being an Engineer and Linux System admin, I totally agree with you!!

Awesome little guide you just wrote there!

[cooper_xl]

Originally Posted by diezel666

You really do get what you pay for here. I have 4 different 1800kv motors including a 9imod one, and it's the mediocre motor that I beat up cause I just don't care if I nuke it.

oh....more and more I'm convinced that all the money I've poured into 2x ESC, 2x motors, stm32 programmer, arduino... I've could had bought a Fusion SE

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by diezel666

That is highly possible.

I will also attempt to preface this carefully. I've got 10 different brushless motors from 1400kv up to 3300kv, that I test all my ESC's on in varying rigs. Including one that has a 9imod 1800kv motor.

You really do get what you pay for here. I have 4 different 1800kv motors including a 9imod one, and it's the mediocre motor that I beat up cause I just don't care if I nuke it. Yet, I feel it's better quality and gives more feed back than my BadAss 2315-1800kv or my PropDrive 28-36 1800kv, which allows me to more accurately judge the ESC's performance before placing in a better rig and really giving it a go.

That said, on all my rigs that I run routinely, I run Holmes Hobbies Team Spec motors in them.

I have the holms outrunners 9imod outrunners injora outrunners rhino outrunners dys outrunners and several unbranded models I can't tell the difference between one or the other all running the same escs there all about equal



I will say this the dys model the magnets came loose and I had to reepoxy them back in and i dident notice any performance loss and I'm still running it but it was what $5 maybe $10 and i had to modify the shaft but what ever

and and and there aren't enuff ands on this post so I'll just and a few more and done

[diezel666]

Originally Posted by cooper_xl

oh....more and more I'm convinced that all the money I've poured into 2x ESC, 2x motors, stm32 programmer, arduino... I've could had bought a Fusion SE

No lie there! I had half of the programming items I needed laying around. I actually got into this by accident when a great friend of mine approached me, as he was working with one person who was doing all this, and just dropped off the earth.
Leaving him with a pile of parts that didn't work. So I took on the project. A few weeks later, bang, here we are...

I mentioned earlier I'm a Linux Admin, well, that's just the tip of the iceberg really. I'm now a professional White Hat for a living, with a vast background as a Black/Grey Hat (feel free to ask or google if you dare)....
Also being a retired from industry Heavy Equipment and Auto Tech who specialized in Electrical and On-Board systems, and an electronics hobbyist... Jumping directly into hacking devices and firmware really is second nature to me.

Originally Posted by ferp420

I have the holms outrunners 9imod outrunners injora outrunners rhino outrunners dys outrunners and several unbranded models I can't tell the difference between one or the other all running the same escs there all about equal

You're entirely not wrong. For most people many motors will all "feel" the same.
It's when you really start messing with sine mode, very lower power, measuring amperage, looking at EMF feedback, measuring temperatures of the ESC and Motors that you'll notice differences in them, some times major differences.

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by diezel666

You're entirely not wrong. For most people many motors will all "feel" the same.
It's when you really start messing with sine mode, very lower power, measuring amperage, looking at EMF feedback, measuring temperatures of the ESC and Motors that you'll notice differences in them, some times major differences.

yup you lost me at sine

[themountain]

Originally Posted by ferp420

... I can't tell the difference between one or the other...

That is just sad

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by themountain

That is just sad

why are you sad ?

[diezel666]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Awesome little guide you just wrote there!

Thanks man, appreciate that my effort is appreciated.

Originally Posted by ferp420

why are you sad ?

I'm not too sure I can agree with that either. The beauty of life, and most things we do, is there is no real "TRVE" one way to do things.

I don't R/C like most of my friends do. That doesn't make them bad at it, or anything else, nor me better than them.

[ferp420]

I can't get past the sign waving lol