I got a good deal on a GK RTR. Now what?

[smc-93]

As mentioned, I grabbed a GK RTR from AMain for $100 USD off. I always wanted to but a GK and now was the time to do it but I bought it without much research on kit vs. RTR and without a plan for it's future. I don't want to start a build thread as it'll remain mostly stock (maybe). I'm probably only going to upgrade wheels, tires and electronics over time.

I have a Knightrunner and have some experience with the platform but I'm not rough on it and so haven't experienced the limits of what the chassis can handle. The GK is going to be a used as a bouncer/hammer buggy and will need to withstand more abuse. All of this leaves me with a few questions for the more experienced Enduro (and variants)

(1) What are some of the key components I might be missing out on with the RTR version?

(2) What are some the common failure points on the Enduro platform when they are abused on the rocks?

(3)Is there any "kit" parts I need (strongly recommended) to buy and use in place of RTR parts, like the metal "kit" vs. plastic RTR panhard mounts?

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[Phyro]

You might swap to metal pivot balls on the links. The metal panhard mount would also be advised.

As for more optional parts, the SSD C-Hubs haven’t let me down at all, and they have taken quite a few falls to concrete.


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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by Phyro

You might swap to metal pivot balls on the links. The metal panhard mount would also be advised.

As for more optional parts, the SSD C-Hubs haven’t let me down at all, and they have taken quite a few falls to concrete.


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That's exactly the kind of information I'm looking for. I didn't even know the RTR had plastic pivot balls. (I probably should have known based on the KR) Thank you.

I've now added c-hubs, GK kit panhard and steel pivot balls to to the future shopping list. Going to give the STRC brass c-hubs a try as I may want to outboard the shocks a bit.

How are the RTR shocks compared to the kit shocks? Is there any significant differences in performance or is it just a visual difference? Aluminum vs. "brass" appearance.

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[Phyro]

Originally Posted by smc-93

That's exactly the kind of information I'm looking for. I didn't even know the RTR had plastic pivot balls. (I probably should have known based on the KR) Thank you.

I've now added c-hubs, GK kit panhard and steel pivot balls to to the future shopping list. Going to give the STRC brass c-hubs a try as I may want to outboard the shocks a bit.

How are the RTR shocks compared to the kit shocks? Is there any significant differences in performance or is it just a visual difference? Aluminum vs. "brass" appearance.

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The difference is the shock bodies only. I have had both types. Didn’t see much leakage from either one. Kinda hard to tell the difference between the two on the trails or course. The bronze ones are hard anodized. So they should wear better in theory.


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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by Phyro

The difference is the shock bodies only. I have had both types. Didn’t see much leakage from either one. Kinda hard to tell the difference between the two on the trails or course. The bronze ones are hard anodized. So they should wear better in theory.


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Okay. Good to know. I appreciate it

Sounds like the only reason I'd need to consider the kit shock bodies then is if I started noticing damage to the shock bodies themselves. At which point I'd probably go for a well know, high reputation upgrade anyway.

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[Phyro]

Originally Posted by smc-93

Okay. Good to know. I appreciate it

Sounds like the only reason I'd need to consider the kit shock bodies then is if I started noticing damage to the shock bodies themselves. At which point I'd probably go for a well know, high reputation upgrade anyway.

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I just changed my bronze shocks out for some Dravtechs. It wasn’t due to the shocks being bad. I just wanted longer rear shocks, but wanted them to match.


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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by Phyro

I just changed my bronze shocks out for some Dravtechs. It wasn’t due to the shocks being bad. I just wanted longer rear shocks, but wanted them to match.


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I did the opposite on my KR. I have the OEM shocks on the front and PL Pro-Scale 70mm on the rear to fit under a drop bed.

The OEM rear shocks I removed from my KR didn't feel bad but they didn't really feel great either, kind of spongey. I wasn't sure what kind of reputation they had. Or the difference between the aluminum vs. bronze bodies obviously.

I might swap out the GK shocks for 100mm-110mm shocks in the future but I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing any issues with the OEM shocks until then.

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[HumboldtEF]

I havent had any breakages but I made a bit of a U4/Bouncer with the GK. I think a sway bar in the rear is a must whenever you have trailing arms, it flops around a lot without one and handles speed much better (with one).

I also added the IFS kit and used the knight customs IFS lowering kit. The IFS is terrible for crawling but awesome for speed, this thing soaks up bumps and boulders like its nothing. I cant believe how seldom I roll this thing too, its been kind of shocking. Though I'm almost always trailing on dirt (loose surface), it'll definitely be rolling easier on pavement or grippy rocks.

[durok]

The Element shocks are among the very best, in my experience - whether they be the stock Sendero RTR models or the slightly upgraded FT versions.

Basically, I don't ever worry about TRX-4 or Element shocks, but upgrade whatever others I get.

If I ever get the SSD Trail King, I doubt I will swap those out either.

Much can be done with shock oil, springs, and sometimes swapping different O-rings and using Associated Electronics Factory Team Green Slime on them.

[B-MOW71]

I agree with durok 100%. Both the Traxxas and Element shocks are some of the best to be included in RTR’s & kits.

I just built these Element shocks that came in my Gatekeeper Builders Kit. These shocks are super smooth and show no signs of fluid seepage.




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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I havent had any breakages but I made a bit of a U4/Bouncer with the GK. I think a sway bar in the rear is a must whenever you have trailing arms, it flops around a lot without one and handles speed much better (with one).

I also added the IFS kit and used the knight customs IFS lowering kit. The IFS is terrible for crawling but awesome for speed, this thing soaks up bumps and boulders like its nothing. I cant believe how seldom I roll this thing too, its been kind of shocking. Though I'm almost always trailing on dirt (loose surface), it'll definitely be rolling easier on pavement or grippy rocks.

I am going to keep the sway bar installed as the GK might also become a formula off-road, sand drag kind of build instead of another crawler or bouncer just for the sake of doing something different.

I was thinking about an IFS kit as well (for the same reason) but can't seem to find the full kit in stock anymore.

Originally Posted by durok

The Element shocks are among the very best, in my experience - whether they be the stock Sendero RTR models or the slightly upgraded FT versions.

Basically, I don't ever worry about TRX-4 or Element shocks, but upgrade whatever others I get.

If I ever get the SSD Trail King, I doubt I will swap those out either.

Much can be done with shock oil, springs, and sometimes swapping different O-rings and using Associated Electronics Factory Team Green Slime on them.

If I do change the shocks it's highly likely I'd go for the TRX "lift kit" shocks. I don't see any reason to go shorter. Longer and angled should offer more flexibility (literally and figuratively) if I stick with the crawler/bouncer route.

If I go down with the U4, desert racing road it sounds like I can probably stick with the RTR shocks, tuned and adjusted for speed.

SSD TK shocks feel great. Just want to throw that in there. I love the way my TK rides and the way it carries a hard body JK

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

I agree with durok 100%. Both the Traxxas and Element shocks are some of the best to be included in RTR’s & kits.

I just built these Element shocks that came in my Gatekeeper Builders Kit. These shocks are super smooth and show no signs of fluid seepage.
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That's good to hear. It sounds like there's no reason I NEED to change the RTR shock. That should save me a few bucks is I stick with the crawler/bouncer style of rig.

[MarkS]

I also just bought a GK RTR, taking advantage of the sale. I have a question about the Panhard mount. Mine is metal. Have they started shipping these with the upgraded mount or is there still a difference between this metal mount and the one that comes in the kit?

[smc-93]

Originally Posted by MarkS

I also just bought a GK RTR, taking advantage of the sale. I have a question about the Panhard mount. Mine is metal. Have they started shipping these with the upgraded mount or is there still a difference between this metal mount and the one that comes in the kit?

I'm new to the GK myself so any information I can offer is tentative.

The panhard should be in two pieces, one metal plate that attaches to the chassis and one plastic piece that mounts the panhard to that metal plate.

I haven't had the chance to look super close but I don't think the link mount should be metal on the RTR. Maybe you got lucky and got a "kit" panhard (both metal chassis mount and link mount). Although you should have an extra link mount (plastic half) in your parts bag.

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[MarkS]

And indeed, the other piece is plastic. I just checked. Thank you for the explanation

It’s going to be fun figuring out what upgrades to get for this guy.

[smc-93]

As much as I said I was going to keep my GK mostly stock, of coarse, I can't.

I want it to stand out from every other GK and so it's going to become a (RC4WD) Blazer "trophy truck" style, weekend "screw around at the dunes" type build.

I'm thinking something like this. https://images.app.goo.gl/dHPGpvZtMGpSjhRn6 but with the "open", racing style of this. https://images.app.goo.gl/Z1RLZXHGExzEgWvi7

Maybe IFS, Element style or twin I-beam. Bought an Axial Bronco cage and F100 cage, going to have to decide which I like better. I'm still trying to work out how/where to cut the body for the look/fit I'm after. My brother is working on designing a set of widebody flares as well.
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