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Thread: Robb's OCM CR-101

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Old 02-10-2008, 01:09 PM   #1
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Default Robb's OCM CR-101

Specs:

-OCM CRL-101 "Newage" base
: axles
: links
: shocks
: beadlocks

-SW2 Chassis
-Losi Rock Claw tires
-Axiom 35T motors
-CC Sidewinder ESC
-Hitec 5645MG Steering Servo
-CC BEC
-"Rizzo" Style DIG
-Vislero 2100 MAH 3S Batt

Got it out running this morning, and impressed so far. The Sidewinder is glitching, it is way too fast right now, and LOTS of tuning is needed, but happy so far.

Feel free to ask any questions..............







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Old 02-10-2008, 01:30 PM   #2
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Nice. Looking good. How does it preform?
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Old 02-10-2008, 01:38 PM   #3
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I like the wheels. You shoulda brought it to Hobby Town yesterday, dislikes be damned.
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Old 02-10-2008, 11:44 PM   #4
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Whats the width on those axles? They look really wide
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Old 02-11-2008, 02:19 AM   #5
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wow that looks good! i see it already is getting some rock rash

edit: by the way, this kit is an amazing deal! I would expect it to be more like $500. aluminum beadlocks are like $100, the aluminum axles are like $140 a piece (thats how much the raptors cost). that is almost $400 right there and then you've got other goodies like aluminum shocks, and powder coated links with steel ball ends. maybe if i can break down my shafty superiority complex i might just have to spend my george bush money on one of these kits.

Last edited by RCMFMaxxMan; 02-11-2008 at 02:39 AM.
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Old 02-11-2008, 06:30 AM   #6
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So the real down side of the kit is just the chassis? Ohter then that it looks like an awesome kit, and for that price can't beat it.
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Old 03-13-2008, 02:52 PM   #7
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Very interested in this chassis, especially with what I've been seeing clod axles go for these days :(

-Ari
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:00 PM   #8
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Nice ride Robb, we gonna see some action videos of it. You know how we like videos:-P.........lol.
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:11 PM   #9
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It looks to me like you could raise the chassis quite a bit and keep the center of gravity low, or does raising the chassis still make that much of a difference even though you have no tranny or motor in it? :?
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Old 03-14-2008, 02:49 AM   #10
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so wheres some purchasing info on this pacage, its looking great, i would love a dule motor 2.2
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Old 03-14-2008, 05:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JUSTGOINGSLOW View Post
So the real down side of the kit is just the chassis? Ohter then that it looks like an awesome kit, and for that price can't beat it.
How is an SW2 a bad thing?Next time I decide to build something new I might think about these axles.
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Old 03-14-2008, 05:56 AM   #12
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I was talking about the stock kit chassis. Thats why Robb went to a SW2.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:18 PM   #13
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I end up changing the design of this whole thing every couple of weeks or so, and I suck at updating this thread, so here is how it sits tonight.

I hooked up a three position front DIG switch in it yesterday (not in pics), and it seems to work okay, just needs some tweeking.

Ran the backbone chassis for the first time today, and so far kinda like it. Not sure if I will stick with it for the long haul, but I will try it for awhile.

Today was also my first time EVER running an RC with a stick radio (DX7), and wow, that is going to take some getting used to!!!

No action pics of course. I just never think about taking a camera when it is just me out running.



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Old 05-26-2008, 08:25 PM   #14
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Man you guys really need to stop posting these OCM pics!!!!

How do you have the controls on the DX-7 hooked up?
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:41 PM   #15
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How do you like your chassis design? Cool looking rig
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666 View Post
How do you have the controls on the DX-7 hooked up?
Right now, and not final by any means, I have the left stick running the ESC vertically and the DIG switch horizontally. I moved the horizontal self-centering spring over the left stick, and adjusted the rudder curve so that it only acts near the end of it's throw (kinda replicating a double throw switch). Then the right stick (no matter it's vertical location) operates the steering horizontally.

I am not a big fan of the DIG switch setup, but my DX7 is the park flyer version with the AR6000, so it doesn't have the three position Flap switch................in fact, it has no controllable double throw switches, which sucks for what I need it for.:-( I am hoping I can tension the horizontal left stick enough that I don't accidentally throw the DIG switch, which I tend to do at this moment.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:44 PM   #17
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You can mix 2 channels and make them work like a 3 position switch you know?
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Old 05-26-2008, 09:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666 View Post
You can mix 2 channels and make them work like a 3 position switch you know?
PLEASE PLEASE SCHOOL ME!!!!

I have flown 1:1 small aircraft, and they are easier to understand than this damn 108 page DX7 manual!! The manual (and I guess for good reason) was written for experienced RC flyers, and since I haven't even held a stick radio since my dad flew up until I was maybe 10, it is WAY above my head!

I just thought that mixing was two-to-three channels acting together to a certain point, like in a 1:1 you would use elevator and aileron and a little rudder at the same time to turn. I had no idea that I could use mixing in a way to act as a switch! I am very interested and eager to learn!




I like the chassis pretty well so far, but need to make a real change to the rear links. I need to fab a second mounting point to the rear axle without the links for two reasons; 1) the way I have it set up right now, the only torsion of the chassis is happening between where the front and rear links mount. This is giving about 25-30* or so of artic, which is okay, but I could use a hair more. This is also stressing the backbone at that one point instead of spreading the load. 2) it isn't helping getting over tall obstacles as well as a mount that isn't in the way as much. The high belly clearance is nice, but getting rid of those links in the back would help even more.
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Old 05-26-2008, 09:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666 View Post
You can mix 2 channels and make them work like a 3 position switch you know?
Will this work for the DX6?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robb View Post
PLEASE PLEASE SCHOOL ME!!!!
X2
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Old 05-26-2008, 10:05 PM   #20
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OK, I have a DX6i, I have no clue if this is the same for the 6 or 7, but, this is how I got a 3 position setting on a single channel in airplane mode:

Go to the "mix 1" function under the "adjust list"
There you will find only one field with 2 options, one is INH, the other is ACT. It's factory set to INH, set it to ACT.
A number of new fields will now show up. I mixed FLAP and GEAR
I set the SW field to ELE D/R

I now have the Gear and ELEV D/R switches mixed to one channel (gear, or channel 5). Set the RATE D and U to the appropriate places, then trim the EPA's to the appropriate position. This can be used as a 4 position switch if you set it up right, and if you can find a use for it.

You can also set the MIX 2 in the same way, which I fully intend to do for front and rear dig with brake when my enroute comes in next week. I would generally advise using different switches and channel for mix 2

Last edited by chrisjlittle; 05-26-2008 at 10:12 PM.
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