RCCrawler Forums

swell searcher

Hey Robb, Can you post pics of your dig setup (4wd, free, locked)? I suck at understanding wiring diagrams.

Brandon

Im working on a diagram now for someone else, I will post it up here as well

EDIT: Added diagram. I think this is correct, if its not let me know I will fix it.

Red wires: Positive
White wires: Negative.

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rockbound

here are pics of mine if that helps you.





mine are set up to free wheel though, they do not dead short the motors.

Brandon

For Front/Rear dig use Badd's diagram

Note: Removing either red 16ga wire will eliminate the locked axle and allow them to freewheel.

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Brandon

Here is something I am working on...

This wiring diagram allows you to have front and rear dig, as well as a third switch to disable the lock on the rear axle and allow it to freewheel.

This is only possible with a 4ch transmitter though

Or in my case I will be simply installing a 2 position switch on the chassis that I can manually use before I start a course if I feel that free wheel or dig will be more beneficial.

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Brandon

Here is Bonus Lines micro servo and radio shack switch setup for a better idea of what I posted in the diagrams above.

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BoNuS LiNe

i followed badd's wiring diagram , works great

dezfan

It's awesome to see how far this has come from the OG D.U.D. set I built using some crap I had lying around the shop!

By Berg is only waiting on a few components. When everything comes together, I'll be using this DIG set up as well.

Thanks for all the diagrams for the duel set ups!

Robb

Lots of great info here!!!


This is how mine is set up based on the diagram above. This pic shows the switch positions in relation to the diagram:



Randy, I doubt actual pics of my setup would do you any good, because all the wires are wrapped and heatshrinked, etc. I even took a look at it and it made no sense to me! This is the overall wiring for it though, hope it helps.



The great thing I love about this fully electrical DIG is that it can be bypassed if a problem occurs. It isn't shown in this pic, but there is enough length in the wiring to the rear motor that if any problem occurs with the servo or the switches, the deans plugs to-n-from the switches can be plugged into each other, bypassing the DIG altogether, and allowing me to continue to run.

rockbound

great idea on the bypass.

swell searcher

thanks guys... that helps alot...

Chargerguy

Dangit Robb, that is exactly how I am mounting my switches. I posted a pic of the part numbers in some thread here and got shot down for the roller switches meh, anyway I havent figured out how to make the roller trigger wheel for the servo, any info on that youd like to share ole buddy ole pal?

it looks like you just ground dibbits in a round servo horn?...

Mic

Now I need a 4 ch with 2 3p switches for ch3 and 4 I do not know how I lived without dig.

Robb

Yep, I use a simple ol' Hitec round plastic horn, cut into a single quadrant, then slappily ground some grooves in it. The grooves have been more properly done since those pics, and probably still need some more work.

Roller switches work great in this scenario. Only problem with them, is that only work one way and will not work if you try to close them with a single horn from the opposite direction that the switch wants to close. Yea, that is confusing. Pretty much, if you use a horn to "slide" the roller from one side, it will only work one way. Because of the play in the arm of the switch, it is impossible (and I hate to make definite statements like that, but the bends I have put in those switch arms should show proof of it) to accurately open and close the switch if you try to slide the horn in from the opposite side................it will just push the ball and arm out instead of in. Yea, this is hard to explain, but hopefully the pic below will show what I am trying to say.

A wide-a$$ horn that keeps the arm from fully extending will eliminate the play of the arm, and allow the switches to operate correctly depending whether they are riding on the base of the horn, or in a groove on the horn. Base of horn = closed, groove = open.

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rockbound

that is why i use the ones with just the arm no roller.

Robb

Using a servo horn that would hit a switch in the direction shown above.....................how would a switch without a roller even work?



And with or without a roller, the same problem would exist.



and bending the arm doesn't count as an answer

rockbound

yeah i guess your right, after looking at the pic again, my horn runs perpendicular to the switches not parallel. it throws against the switch not along it.

swell searcher

is the front motor on the left and rear motor on the right?

wrightcs77

I like the pic on the bottom shown in the thread
dig setup and wiring?

here is the pic


but the switches look to be activated in the exact way that Robb is saying they will not work (If I am viewing it right.....which would not surprise me if I am not). Just curious, as I like the idea of having everything in one small box.

Robb

Both motors have the same potential in that diagram. Front or rear makes no difference.