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Thread: Widemouth Berg II, getting picky now

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Old 08-23-2008, 08:01 PM   #1
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Default Widemouth Berg II, getting picky now

I've been running my Reign Widemouth Chaos Berg for a while now and have been super happy with it. I knew it could be better though, especially in the center of gravity area. It was also bothering me that it seemed kind of sloppily done.

Plus my kid has been getting pretty good and after seeing how much better he drove my berg I decided it was time to pass my first one onto him and start over.

Here's the specs
Widemouth Chassis, ano black
DNA wheels with Panther Cougar tires
HPI Shocks
Tekin FXR ESC
Hitec TG servo
Castle BEC
JP's RC's Warrior Motors
Dual dig switch

Goals

Get COG much lower
Figure out steering so that I don't snag anymore Panther tires and can use a standard steering linkage
Mount servo lower
Get more articulation than my last rig
Make it clean

First pic, much more to come


Last edited by Just Zach; 08-24-2008 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:54 PM   #2
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Dam Zach I feel like I just got held back in 6th grade I haven't built one shaftless rig yet and your on your second one already. Maybe bowling is my thing.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:10 PM   #3
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I know, I have problems but I'm alright with it.

First thing was steering. I wanted the servo lower so I took a little bit from Kaetwo and added a bit of my own. The plate is an Axial battery tray. I cut it up and drilled and tapped the axle tube. Its really thick so it works well. I extended it out a bit to hit the hole on the top of the axle for more strength.

Then I took a Reign Servo Crown and used that to secure and protect the servo. I bolted directly to the arm and the crown pinches everything down and in place. Overall it dropped things about 1/4". Not a ton but everything makes a difference.

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Old 08-23-2008, 10:17 PM   #4
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Next I wanted to attack the problem of the tires getting caught and torn on the knuckles. I've heard of things like vasoline and such but I hate to get anything on the tires that would reduce traction. So I cut about 1/4" off the knuckle arms, drilled and tapped new holes, and used the angled rod ends from and Axial to push the steering link back out so it would clear the gear box.

Everything worked out perfectly, I doubt there is any way that the tires could grab now and the steering gets full throw with both wheels unlike my old setup.

Oh yeah, upper steering link will be replaced, its all I could do for now.




Last edited by Just Zach; 08-23-2008 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:22 PM   #5
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Next was to get the dig switch mounted. While I was screwing the Dig-a-ma-jig together I noticed that I could screw two longer screws from the links into it and it would hold it really well. Easy and very strong mount. I also bullet plugged everything so I am going to make a spare just in case something fries.

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Old 08-23-2008, 10:27 PM   #6
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My little quick and dirty electronics tray. Just a piece of angled aluminum ground down to clear the axle tube and mounted into the gear case. It was supposed to be a battery tray but it stuck up just a little too high so it turned into an electronics tray. Forward and low though



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Old 08-23-2008, 10:31 PM   #7
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I forgot about links, it worked out really easy. I used the stock links from the Enroute kit for the lower with Traxxas rod ends. Ends up perfectly at a hair under 12.5" Then the upper links I picked up a set of 55mm Axial Links for the front upper and 60mm for the rear to clock the motor up some.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:47 PM   #8
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I know its kind of hard to see but the battery is mounted underneith the front upper links. Its a Maxamps 1550 3s, it just barely fits there but it keep the weight very low and as forward as possible.

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Old 08-23-2008, 10:49 PM   #9
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This won't be the body I run, just a test fit so I haven't cut the body posts yet. Looks pretty good though.

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Old 08-23-2008, 11:01 PM   #10
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looks very well thought out and you did everything so clean. i really like how you mounted the servo. lets see some action shots.
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:05 PM   #11
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Thanks, action shots coming tomorrow. I'm going to go run in on my test course in the morning.
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:20 PM   #12
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so zach which HPI shocks are those?
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselfuel View Post
so zach which HPI shocks are those?
These are the shocks. Dual balls, the assembly is better than anything I have ever tried. There is even a flat on the shaft for assembly.

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/87252/
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Old 08-24-2008, 06:30 AM   #14
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Ok, since I can't sleep anymore, here are some action shots.

This is my front yard crawler course, and its not easy!



A couple of articulation shots





And the cliffhanger, I've only made it 4 times now, but I made it the first time with this one









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Old 08-24-2008, 07:56 AM   #15
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You could of just run an F1 spoiler and your center of gravity would have been about 2" underground.
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Old 08-24-2008, 07:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankyRizzo View Post
You could of just run an F1 spoiler and your center of gravity would have been about 2" underground.
That's it! I'm switching to 17t motors and I've got a spoiler from a bug laying around
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Old 08-24-2008, 08:45 AM   #17
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Man the new rig sure covers all the issues, love the Dig-m-a-jig it's so clean. The XC-1 is a very good body choice. I hope the new rig delivers great results for you.
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Old 08-24-2008, 10:01 AM   #18
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rig looks good. I like the idea of using bullet connectors and making a spare Im gonna have to do that when i get my new chassis in for a rebuild
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Old 08-24-2008, 10:02 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yukon635 View Post
rig looks good. I like the idea of using bullet connectors and making a spare Im gonna have to do that when i get my new chassis in for a rebuild
I don't know why because I haven't had any problems but I worry about it frying.
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:41 PM   #20
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I got what will most likely be my Nationals body. I'm pretty much ready to go and luckily this one just feels like an upgraded version of may last one so there isn't much to get use to.







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