Clocking vs. low CG?

[dpdsurf]

Has anyone found that clocking their axles affected their low CG performance? Or is it not significant enough of a change and the clearance is the better trade off?

[Rockcrawler]

I personally am going to clock just the rear. I dont see the front as being a problem with hang ups.

[-WHEELMAN-]

Originally Posted by Rockcrawler

I personally am going to clock just the rear. I dont see the front as being a problem with hang ups.

ME TOO!

[wrightcs77]

I have 2 Bergs and have tried back to back testing. I ran one day with no clock axles and the next day ran clocked axles. I personally liked the clocked axles better. I could go the same places and lines with the unclocked axle, but it often required more wheelspeed due to the front motor catching. I found no loss in performance due to the raised CG. The terrain I run on is notorious for having lots of "steps", edges and little ridges that like to catch on pumpkins and motors.

[redbaron]

I clocked both the front and the rear of mine, and love it. I've got a new set and those will be getting clocked as well!

[Scottmisfits]

I plan on clocking my front but not the rear. I'm just going to use longer links for the rear.

[JIA's Dad]

Originally Posted by redbaron

I clocked both the front and the rear of mine, and love it. I've got a new set and those will be getting clocked as well!

And you drive it like you love it. Hope that new chassis works out.

[hitman46mod]

Clocking on a berg axle should not make that much of a difference in CG. Unless you go to far. I think anywhere even with the lower links would be fine. Clocking a shafty axle will cause torque twist. If your pinion angle is to far out of plain it will bind. You want your drive shaft connaection to be as strait as possible. Just my .02

[redbaron]

Originally Posted by hitman46mod

Clocking on a berg axle should not make that much of a difference in CG. Unless you go to far. I think anywhere even with the lower links would be fine.

That's basically what I did. I clocked mine 18*, which made it just a hair higher than my lower links. This has worked well. I beat the hell out of my motors so bad before I clocked them, that almost every other time out, I was cutting a motor brush wire in two. We run a lot of rip-rap style/size rock, so they got hit alot.

[kblackwell71]

I clocked my rear axle to keep the motor above the lower links, didn't afftect my CG much. Just keeps my rear motor from hanging up. I wouldn't clock my front axle unless i had a high clearance steering setup.

thanks

[slip408]

Originally Posted by kblackwell71

I clocked my rear axle to keep the motor above the lower links, didn't afftect my CG much. Just keeps my rear motor from hanging up. I wouldn't clock my front axle unless i had a high clearance steering setup.

thanks

Your not clocking the whole axle in the front just the motor casing (pre-drilling holes), axle shaft stays the same without the steering changing in angle...my steering is still the same...you don't need high clearance steering.

[Da Hermit]

If you are running the stock servo mount, this will limit the clocking mod. to when you contact the steering servo. Its enough to help from getting hung up to soon or too long. (IMO) The Rear I just used longer top links.
Its a winning set-up.

-Jerome

[GX10Scorpian]

yes actually i found when i clocked my diffs the pumpkin would start getting hung up so i switched back also i found when you clock the front you lose steering cuz your turning into the ground

[Tanis]

I actually rotated my front motor down, to gain some caster and to lower the CG even more in the front. The benefit of the lower CG made up for the few times the front motor held me back. I did have to be pickier about line choice.
Rear I used longer upper links to rotate up a smidge.

[dpdsurf]

Originally Posted by GX10Scorpian

yes actually i found when i clocked my diffs the pumpkin would start getting hung up so i switched back also i found when you clock the front you lose steering cuz your turning into the ground

When I refer to clocking it is assumed that the front axle tubes would be ground and redrilled to eliminate the negative caster angle issue.

Although caster is obviously a non-issue for the rear, I still feel too much clocking by simply lengthening the top links raises the lower links and creates an asymetrical shock angle compared to the front. So I would prefer to redrill the rear just like the front.

Thanks for all your input. I guess I will be taking on the axle modifications shortly.

[redbaron]

Originally Posted by dpdsurf

Although caster is obviously a non-issue for the rear, I still feel too much clocking by simply lengthening the top links raises the lower links and creates an asymetrical shock angle compared to the front. So I would prefer to redrill the rear just like the front.

Thats exactly why I took the time to redrill the housing and clock both axles the same way!