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Old 12-07-2008, 11:57 AM   #1
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Default Steering Angle Question(s)

This is a two part question.

1) What is the stock steering angle and do I need to improve upon it to be competitive? And if so, what is the recommended way to do that, keeping cost in mind as a limiting factor?

2) Also, I want to run the HB Rover Crawler tire which is claimed to be 5.5" tall. Has anyone run this tire on a Berg? Are there any interference issues or anything else that I should expect?

I am trying to go cheap initially so I am thinking about running the below and everything else will be stock.
TCS Berg Chassis Kit ($14.99)
TCS High clearance links ($10.99)
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Old 12-07-2008, 04:40 PM   #2
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The turning is great in stock form.

Mine turns to the point where the tires rub the shocks/links. It is nothing to worry about...obviously the extra turning is well worth a little rubbing.
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Old 12-07-2008, 07:27 PM   #3
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In stock form they turn to the point were one side of the dogbone pin comes out of the cup on the stub shaft...

Be easy on the throttle when your bound up and at full steering lock.
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:20 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigels_world View Post
In stock form they turn to the point were one side of the dogbone pin comes out of the cup on the stub shaft...

Be easy on the throttle when your bound up and at full steering lock.
If you put in Fuel tube in the output shafts, this prevents them from coming out. The amount you need does make it harder to steer easy, but thats what the 8711 is for. Good steering and no wear/failure doing this so far on mine.
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:23 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binaryterror View Post
If you put in Fuel tube in the output shafts, this prevents them from coming out. The amount you need does make it harder to steer easy, but thats what the 8711 is for. Good steering and no wear/failure doing this so far on mine.
How many mm thick is the spacer you cut from the tubing? I am using about 4mm now.
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Old 12-08-2008, 08:05 AM   #6
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The tires on 1" Eritex Berg offset wheels (great wheels by the way) No problems so far




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Old 12-08-2008, 10:03 AM   #7
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Thanks everyone!
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchester View Post
How many mm thick is the spacer you cut from the tubing? I am using about 4mm now.
I'm guessing originally at 6mm, but if you look now it's worn down to fit perfect. Like I said its tight in the beginning, real tight, but it's worn in quickly with the servo I use.
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Old 12-08-2008, 06:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binaryterror View Post
If you put in Fuel tube in the output shafts, this prevents them from coming out. The amount you need does make it harder to steer easy, but thats what the 8711 is for. Good steering and no wear/failure doing this so far on mine.

I use 2 o-rings in each stub shaft. My inner axles have no play. I does have some drag from them as you stated. I use an Airtronics 94780 on 7 volts so drag is of no concern. One thing to make clear... The failure depicted above is from the stub shaft cup turning off of one side of the dog bone at full lock(shown below). Retaining the inners will in no way prevent this.

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Old 12-08-2008, 07:07 PM   #10
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With only 2 O-rings the inner axle on mine still moved when the axle would rotate and steered. That's why I went with the fuel tube.
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:46 PM   #11
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wonder when someones gonna make a cv for the berg, thats the ticket
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Old 12-08-2008, 08:10 PM   #12
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Where exactly are you putting the o-rings/fuel tube?? Im in the process of build a Berg based rig and want to make sure i do this right...
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Old 12-08-2008, 08:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Where exactly are you putting the o-rings/fuel tube?? Im in the process of build a Berg based rig and want to make sure i do this right...

In the stub shaft where the dog bone goes.
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Old 12-08-2008, 08:38 PM   #14
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Thats what i thought...but what keeps the o-rings from comming out through the slots in the drive cup??
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:28 PM   #15
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hope this helps...

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Old 12-09-2008, 06:35 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HauntFreaks.com View Post
hope this helps...

Good sketch, or put the o-rings as shown in place of the Tube, same idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trugg View Post
Thats what i thought...but what keeps the o-rings from comming out through the slots in the drive cup??
One local uses 3 o-rings to do the same. Insert one in down like it might slide out, but then 2 over it into the cup and seems to hold in well and hold the 2 o-rings in a more original shape. Then just install the knuckle again.

Nothing is written as right or wrong here, something needs to be in there to help, be it 2 o-rings, 3 o-rings, fuel tube...your choice on the item, just needs to be a rubbery type material.
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Old 12-09-2008, 07:55 AM   #17
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Mine came with o rings in them and I took them out. I do not understand what they do. They physicaly keep the wheels from turning to far by putting everything in a bind? I just used my servo and set the endpoints to keep it from over extending the dogbone.
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:07 AM   #18
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The o-rings stop the inner axle from being able to float out of the inner slot in the center gear. This causes broken or worn axle shafts.

Put them back in they are to make the axle shafts last.
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