03-16-2009, 07:47 AM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: olney
Posts: 57
| kwal's SWX Berg
I just finished My Berg yesterday and since this is the first non kit crawler I've done I'm looking for some critique. Here's what I got: CC Sidewinder CC BEC Manly dig switches Hitec 55 dig servo Hitec 645 steering servo integy 55t lathe motors ckrc 1500mah lipo Proline Eight shooter wheels (they're a temporary until i figure what I want) Proline Chisel Tires Right side Left side Flex shot Yes I know my wiring is a rat's nest |
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03-16-2009, 08:05 AM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Maryland
Posts: 319
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I would ditch the 645 servo for a monster one. Won't know how you lived without it. You could also raise the upper links on the rear higher in the chassis. Looks good.
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03-16-2009, 03:20 PM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Sykesville MD
Posts: 437
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Whats up with your wiring it looks like a rat's nest. |
03-16-2009, 05:34 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Route One
Posts: 465
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alot of nice parts just wondering how your shocks work? it might help if you got some shorter ones or limit the travel on those with some gas line or xomething I am sure you are ready to get down to the tuning and wiring its a joke |
03-16-2009, 07:13 PM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: other side of the track,the bad side
Posts: 241
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You definatly need some shrink wrap on you deans solder joints. when that lipo shorts you will weld something you don't want welded |
03-17-2009, 07:24 AM | #6 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: olney
Posts: 57
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Jamison I moved the links up and it pushed the wb to 12 5/8 in and clocked the axle, but was able to shorten the upper links to fix it Rock Solo I thought about doing that but my belly height is 2 3/4 in right now and I don't think I want it lower. I'll let you know how the shocks work, but from just running it around my house I think I might need some softer springs. Rock Addict The deans that aren't shrink wrapped go to the motors, the battery ones are, but you are right I need to get some kind of insulator on there to protect the esc. |
03-17-2009, 09:35 AM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Maryland
Posts: 319
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Look into slash rear springs. I think they are pretty nice. I just cut mine down last night a hair for a lower ride height. I like the progressive nature of them though. Another thing to look into is since you have a long bolt for the upper links. Go ahead and put a spacer in there for the links to take up the extra length. Will help the way the suspension cycles as well. And look good while doing it. |
03-17-2009, 09:52 AM | #8 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: olney
Posts: 57
| Quote:
The reason I put a long bolt in there is so I can try different setups but if I space out the upper links right now I'll move the wb to more then 12 1/2 in and clock the axle to much, right now I'm looking into getting a shorter upper link to fix this problem, but I forgot to measure the overall link length last night so it's not going to happen today. Thanks to everybody for the help. | |
03-17-2009, 10:28 AM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Maryland
Posts: 319
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I am referring to the axle mount. The bolt in the front on shot. Just widen them out a little. Should not change the wheelbase. |
03-18-2009, 07:22 AM | #10 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: olney
Posts: 57
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I took it to Carderock park yesterday to see what it'll do. The suspension worked well, but I couldn't tell too much since everything was damp and I had no traction. Jamison I did put some spacers in the front upper link mounts and it moved the wheelbase to 12 1/2, since the link is at less of an angle it's going to go move it out, so I put a smaller link on it which moved it to 12 7/16. When I assembled the rear I spaced the rear lowers at the axle in, I thought it was too much of an angle stock, once I removed the spacer and added the spacers to the upper link mount it moved the wheelbase to 12 1/4 right where I wanted it so I can make adjustments and not worry about having a to long wheelbase |
03-18-2009, 12:32 PM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: behind the wheel of a monster truck...
Posts: 2,878
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I was wondering how you like those Pro Line wheels?Do they make the rig to wide in your opinion?What is the quality like?I was thinking of using them on my berg for a cheaper alternative.
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03-18-2009, 01:23 PM | #12 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: olney
Posts: 57
| The width is just under 11 in wide, don't know what you're shooting for in your rig, but I think that it's a tad too wide. I'm just using them until i figure what wheels I want to run, leaning towards Mayhem wheels right now.
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03-18-2009, 03:40 PM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Route One
Posts: 465
| I think if you got shorter shocks you would be able to position your shocks more upright (not too much) and I think this will the suspension actuate a bit smoother without raising your ride height. The red springs are a bit stiff but some people use 'em. I like wheely king springs because every hobby shop sell HPI and they are short money... and a bunch of different spring rates. oh, and get to the wiring before you burn it to the ground |
03-18-2009, 04:14 PM | #14 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: olney
Posts: 57
| Quote:
I need to rethink my electronics I tried something and it didn't work. Other then the deans to the motors (I already took care of it last night) there is no chance of shorting the battery since the connections are insulated | |
03-19-2009, 05:02 AM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Route One
Posts: 465
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i ma sure you arent offended by my bad sense of humor feel frre to throw some my way dude, its all good fun. hurry up with the body and the action shots |
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