High clearence steering link ?.

[rchippie]

I just got a KK 3.5 complete chassis kit . It has his H/C FR link . I understand i have to MOD the FR knuckles to use his link . Can somone please tell how far back i am supposed to move the link or point me in the direction were i cand find the info on how to complete this mod ?. Thank you

[BigB_117]

Search around here on the berg forum for some other KK builds to be sure, but I think you drill and tap new holes 1/4" back towards the axle.

Are you using Fubar rear lockouts? Put them on the front while you measure, they hold the knuckles in place nicely.

[Kamikaze]

Put the stock tie rod on the bottom to hold it straight, pit the new one on top, move it back till its in the middle of both arms. Drill away!

[jeepcj578]

Originally Posted by BigB_117

Search around here on the berg forum for some other KK builds to be sure, but I think you drill and tap new holes 1/4" back towards the axle.

Are you using Fubar rear lockouts? Put them on the front while you measure, they hold the knuckles in place nicely.

i think you are right on the 1/4 in
the lockout method is a great way to make sure its straight

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by BigB_117

Search around here on the berg forum for some other KK builds to be sure, but I think you drill and tap new holes 1/4" back towards the axle.

Are you using Fubar rear lockouts? Put them on the front while you measure, they hold the knuckles in place nicely.

No im not using fubar lockouts . But i can take the stock lock out bars & mount them underneath on the DR to keep the knuckles in postion. When you say a 1/4 inch back is that from the center of the hole or the back edge of the hole ?. I dont have the stock tie rod .

[BigB_117]

Originally Posted by rchippie

No im not using fubar lockouts . But i can take the stock lock out bars & mount them underneath on the DR to keep the knuckles in postion. When you say a 1/4 inch back is that from the center of the hole or the back edge of the hole ?.

That would work too. Hold it up like Kamikaze said to be sure. He designed the thing so I'm pretty sure he knows best

[rchippie]

Okay i have the knuckles marked but want to double check something before i drill . there is almost 1/8 of a inch of space between the back of the link & the diff case . Is that enough space ?.

[Kamikaze]

Does it look like this?

[rchippie]

I dont have the servo plate on there . But the space between the link & diff case looks pretty darn close . there is 7/16 of a inch of space between the back of the link & axel tube .

[Kamikaze]

It will be, thats why the crooke is in there, to clear the gear case. When you move the hole back and out it changes the pivot point, changing the ackerman, and not making the tie rod move back as much. If its .25" back from the stock hole it will work.

[rchippie]

what i have marked from the center of the stock hole is closer to .37 inches .


Thank you guys for all the help .

[Kamikaze]

Originally Posted by rchippie

what i have marked from the center of the stock hole is closer to .37 inches .

What rod ends are you using? Pics would also be helpful.

[rchippie]

Im using revo rod ends . I all ready drilled it . I sent pics to your email .

[bajajam]

so what was the final measurement? also what rod ends? just curious because i'm getting ready to start my build.

[ittybitty]

revo or tmaxx...whats the answer...havent seen it anywhere else yet???

[Kamikaze]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHGB7&P=ML

[ittybitty]

thanks Jeff...gonna be puttin mine together next week after my parts come in...ive already got the upper and lower links as well as the dig tray bolted up...im dyin waiting on parts!