Harvo's Dlux BAM BAM Axle Special Ops Rebuild

[Harvo]

Erik sent me a message a few weeks ago to see what I was up to. Pretty cool... nice guy, I buy a lot of stuff from him... really swell of him to check up on me. Said I had been a little quiet and wanted to know how the crawling was going.

Apparently... he had a hidden agenda -

[klabeaume]

Looks promising, subscribed

[DeadlySwan]

That is pretty freakin sick. Looks good man.

[stubs179]

Awesome!

[Krawler Konceptz]

Now that is how you start a new build/rebuild thread yes those Dlux axles are awesome and watching the updates.

Rob

[Harvo]

I had actually planned on leaving the Berg alone because it was doing so well for me this season, but when Erik mentioned something about helping him with a project, there was no was I was going to say no.

Things that are changing in this edition of the Special Op's Dlux...

Most noticably... I'm going from 4lbs 1oz to 3lbs 10oz or so.
I can't be exact because of an unexpected motor issue. I couldn't mount the Conflux motors because the mounting holes in the cases are for standard 4 mounting hole motors. The Conflux are smaller and have only 2 holes. I couldn't get the pinion close enough to the gear, so I put in some Brood 40T I had while Erik is making the changes to the case. Just an extension of the adjuster slot is all it needs I think.

Another change is the rear axles. I'm going from RC Axlemasters 6mm axles to Dlux fatty (but ultra light) rear 8mm axles. The lockers that came with the axles are smaller than my RC Bros as well.

Obviously the biggest change is the axle cases. I had Dlux tubes on my Berg Cases, now I have the Carbon fiber and Delrin cases that are much slimmer where it counts and lighter as well. The mesh of the gears is spot on. The new cases sound much better than my aluminum cases. I was able to move my servo back and will be able to change tie rods to one with much more clearance. I set the caster exactly where I want it but haven't secured it yet, as I want to make sure.

The link mounts are totally different than what I have had before. Not what I would call sexy... but definitely phallic . They give much more adjustability than I had before in the front and the rear, however the special ops chassis design limits me to the bottom 2 holes on the front mount.

Assembly of the cases and axles wasn't too bad. I looked at his pics in the original thread and matched what I saw. I ended up assembling the first one 4 times from having to go back in for something I forgot. Pinion depth and mesh is set while the case is apart. There is an upper mount screw that goes through from inside too. Figured that out the 3rd time I assembled it . All in all though, I can do it very quickly now. It is much faster to get apart than an XR10 axle.

All I'm waiting for now are 8mm hubs and I'll be shooting video.

Another change is my knuckle weight system. I had Big Ron's under the knuckle weights. They worked great but took up a lot of space. They actually limited my steering a bit.

What I have now are Klabeaume under the knuckle weights. Much slimmer and sleeker. I haven't assembled them yet but I will have some pics of those soon.

Issues:

Last comp I was upside down trying to right the truck. In the process it cut out once or twice then came back. I think maybe the FXR button hit a crossbrace in the chaos... but I'm troubleshooting that.

Erik built in his battery mount to the new front case. It's a great mount that I used for a season or two. I had to switch because my ops doesn't offer enough space between the uppers and lowers to fit a battery and flex. The issue is that the tab on the case for the battery mount touches my chassis just before full flex to that side. I will likely cut of the little corner of it to remedy that... while leaving the rest so I can use the mount as designed if I switch to a different set up.

I am really anxious to get these new cases on the rocks. Erik asked me to run the crap out of them and that is what I intend to do. I will be practicing a lot for ECC and these axles will be on the Ops for that event.

[DickyT]

Sexy! Looking forward to watching it come together.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by Harvo

Apparently... he had a hidden agenda -

A fantastic driver who does the best build threads and has great attention to detail? No brainer!

Originally Posted by Harvo

Most noticably... I'm going from 4lbs 1oz to 3lbs 10oz or so.

With no weight? I find that hard to believe.

Originally Posted by Harvo

The link mounts are totally different than what I have had before. Not what I would call sexy... but definitely phallic

I knew that wouldnt take long They were not built with that intention but I rolled with them anyhow.

Originally Posted by Harvo

Erik built in his battery mount to the new front case. It's a great mount that I used for a season or two. I had to switch because my ops doesn't offer enough space between the uppers and lowers to fit a battery and flex. The issue is that the tab on the case for the battery mount touches my chassis just before full flex to that side. I will likely cut of the little corner of it to remedy that... while leaving the rest so I can use the mount as designed if I switch to a different set up.

Yep. The mounts are there if you can use them and need them, if not, they are simple to chop off.

[TSK]

Can't wait for my set to arrive! They say "lucky I live Hawaii" but I will have t odisagree on this one...

And thanks for the great little video. I was hoping to see one on your Sudu, but these axles are way cooler than any sporty build.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by Harvo

So is 3lbs4oz with or without weights on the front? I'm impressed fo sho. Mine isn't going to get anywhere near that. (not sure why)...

But I'm at 4lbs and about 10oz with superlight motors CF wheels, shaved claws, drilled gears, Ti links, smashed FXRs, and axial knuckles. That is with knuckle weight though.

The only other place I think I could lose weight is by gluing my tires and losing the inner rings.

What else you got?

Like I said in your thread, I find it hard to believe that you could be that much. Stubs and I are pretty close to each other. About 1.5oz off and I think we have a decent idea of where that extra fat of his is...

Delrin hubs in the rear will lose .5oz off a typical hex/hub setup. With your AL ones that you will have, they will be heavier until I get you some parts.

I am also wondering if the Bully universal setup is lighter? Again, stubs is running the Delrin hubs in the front (-.5oz) and I am guessing they Bully uni shafts could be as much as 1oz lighter? I will try and get weights on this.

Just the above could be 2oz off your car, another thing I saw in your build is the wire your using? Is it somewhat heavy? I know Stubs and I are running 20g with much success. Maybe thats worth an ounce or so?

I think the FXR are heavier? I would like to check those weights too.

Your ops is light, right? Approx 2oz?

[OTHGbronco82]

Damn it. Now I have to spend more money.

[TSK]

I did lose about 40g going from full Ti links (hodgepodge of AL and steel balls) to a full AL link setup with AL balls.

Are you running SS or Al hardware?

Also, 18awg at a minimum on the wires.

4lbs 10oz just seem ridiculously heavy. My truck was at 4lbs 8oz with just turned down back tubes, SS hardware, Shaved sedonas and motors with AL endbells.

[Farmer]

Damnit Harvo, you guys are killing me!!!!! Looks great man, and they couldn't have went to a better guy Can't wait to fondle these at ECC, watch out
Later,
Farmer

[stubs179]

What does one of your wheel/tire/foam setups weigh?

[Harvo]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

4lbs 10oz just seem ridiculously heavy. My truck was at 4lbs 8oz with just turned down back tubes, SS hardware, Shaved sedonas and motors with AL endbells.

Whoa there now.... I never said it was 4lbs 10oz. I said it WAS 4 lb 1 oz and now it's 3 lbs 10 oz. Three Ten or so.

EVERYTHING is light and small. Wire is 16 and 18. The Tekins are decased and the brass posts are removed. Hardware is steel.

Like I said... there aren't 5 more ounces to shave anywhere to get to Stubs weight. Maybe 2. Maybe 3 if I drop more knuckle weight.

[stubs179]

Originally Posted by Harvo

Whoa there now.... I never said it was 4lbs 10oz. I said it WAS 4 lb 1 oz and now it's 3 lbs 10 oz. Three Ten or so.

EVERYTHING is light and small. Wire is 16 and 18. The Tekins are decased and the brass posts are removed. Hardware is steel.

Like I said... there aren't 5 more ounces to shave anywhere to get to Stubs weight. Maybe 2. Maybe 3 if I drop more knuckle weight.

Haha!!

In my thread, the one Erik quoted in here, it says 4lb 10oz. I was wondering how it was that heavy? I don't think I could get mine that heavy if I tried. 3lb 10oz makes a lot more sense.

[Harvo]

Erik, what do your rear axles weigh? I know the axle masters are pigs in comparison, so i should be able to drop the difference off the knuckle weights up front. I haven't done that yet.

[stubs179]

Just threw a pair on the scale for ya. 0.6oz!

Wow

[ittybitty]

You've got aluminum bodied shocks...aluminum preload adjuster nuts...and you said you're running steel hardware right...do you have steel everywhere still? I looked through your old thread and it looked like you still have it everywhere...if so that's a pretty sizable chunk of weight. What about your rod ends...aluminum or steel balls? Obviously you're running SLW hubs...they haven't been lightened at all yet either and they appear to be 725 or larger...of course DLux delrin hubs wouldn't require this. Steering...are you still running the 3/16" Chaotic tie rod? Drop that for aluminum now that you can use a straight one...or go with 1/8" Ti What about your rear lower links...are they the larger links that Nick was building or are they 3/16"?

Didn't stubs thread say he wasn't running knuckle weight at first? I know it's hard to get out of your head...but remember knuckle weights are not "required". You just have to work on moving your balance point as far forward as you want by moving other items around.


Erik...I cussed myself recently for deciding to build an XR and having 2 comp rigs...now you're going to make me "have to have" 3 of them

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by ittybitty

You've got aluminum bodied shocks...aluminum preload adjuster nuts...and you said you're running steel hardware right...do you have steel everywhere still?


Erik...I cussed myself recently for deciding to build an XR and having 2 comp rigs...now you're going to make me "have to have" 3 of them

You wont have to have 3. Just 1

Yeah, those AL SCX shocks can be deceiving. When I was debating Big bore vs. SCX in another thread we figured out that an AL SCX turns out heavier than a modded Big bore.

If you still have steel in the chassis, that is a decent amount. About .5oz

AL 3.2oz


Steel 3.7oz


I also weighed some wire for you. 3' is about what I have in my car so that is what I weighed. I dont have any 16g sitting around, just 20 and 18

20g 6g



18g 11g



I also found that a 300 CVD is really close to a Bully Uni so we can rule that one out.