how to widen the SCX10 rear difff without modification

[rustneversleeps]

I'm in the process of building Foff But i came to a road block.My AR60 a.k.a wraith front end diff is 135mm wider then my 80mm wide which is SCX10 diff about 55mm difference i thought they were the same width..DUH
That's 27 1/2 per side in the rear diff shorter.not sure if this would work out, but will see further up the build .Ill try to get pics to show you what i mean..
I like to know if they make kits to widen the rear diff for the SCX10 diff to almost the same width as the AR60....
All i would need is longer straight axle shaft and longer rear straight axle adapter. i would need a simple solution...and no i can't make my own. i have no torches here and if i did i would try to make them myself and this thread wouldn't exist..

[Alexander_0_1]

Did you try buying the matching rear axle.....

[rustneversleeps]

NO the look I'm going for is for an off set pumpkin out front AR60 and a center pumpkin SCX10 in the rear and the rear is narrow by 55mm....I'll figure out something .just thought maybe they have kit available to widen the rear.... i could use 12mm hex extending but this need longer shafts.

[89redranger]

Wide splined delrin tubes from Creation Fab to keep things light in the rear, XR lockouts, and 2x long side XR shafts seems to be the popular choice for a wide SCX10/AX10 axle with simple shaft choices (if you can find two sets of XR rear shafts...). Hit up CreeperBob for a set of full length Ti shafts that will work with the longer Wraith lockouts and wide tubes for a little more width yet. Other than that, start looking for either some wideners or wider SLW hubs.

[Curcal]

Al burly tubes from rcbros will help you out too.

[Alexander_0_1]

Ah, now I understand...I actually need sort of the same-thing, but I'd like more of an SCX width, I'll probably be contacting GCM shortly.

[rustneversleeps]

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

Wide splined delrin tubes from Creation Fab to keep things light in the rear, XR lockouts, and 2x long side XR shafts seems to be the popular choice for a wide SCX10/AX10 axle with simple shaft choices (if you can find two sets of XR rear shafts...). Hit up CreeperBob for a set of full length Ti shafts that will work with the longer Wraith lockouts and wide tubes for a little more width yet. Other than that, start looking for either some wideners or wider SLW hubs.

so those 2 items XR lockout x2 and XR shafts x2 will fit on the SCX10 rear diff.Do the XR lockouts have spline design like the AR60 does if so how do adapt then to SCX10 rear diff....OH My God More Mods..

[Purptr8r]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

so those 2 items XR lockout x2 and XR shafts x2 will fit on the SCX10 rear diff.Do the XR lockouts have spline design like the AR60 does if so how do adapt then to SCX10 rear diff....OH My God More Mods..

There's 2 different xr mod rears ... There's the full width and the narrow width .... The more narrow of the 2 uses wide splined tubes with short side xr axles and xr lock outs the wider version uses the long side xr shafts and wraith lockouts .... Neither of the 2 are as wide as the xr steering front conversion because of the steering components but the wider one is the closest..... You'll be hard pressed to find stock xr rear shafts because I hoard them all but creeper bob is the man to talk to about getting some ... These conversions get costly as parts get scarce luckily there's great vendors on here to get you where you need to be



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[Purptr8r]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

NO the look I'm going for is for an off set pumpkin out front AR60 and a center pumpkin SCX10 in the rear and the rear is narrow by 55mm....I'll figure out something .just thought maybe they have kit available to widen the rear.... i could use 12mm hex extending but this need longer shafts.

There's guys on here that can make you a centered ar60 and you just find shafts or have them made ... The ax10 axle isn't very " scale " looking compared to the ar60 ....



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[johnnyh66]

The cheap fix would be Junfac/Gmade wideners on the rear.

[rustneversleeps]

how about these for traxxas slash and there are 25mm wide perfict for what i need just hope they fit...
all i need is 2 for the rear....

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

how about these for traxxas slash and there are 25mm wide perfict for what i need just hope they fit...
all i need is 2 for the rear....

I believe Traxxas stub axles are different than Axial, so those may not work. I would try the Junfac wideners, which are available in two different lengths. Red is +13mm per side, and the blue are +19mm per side. I have owned both of these, and they work well with a little blue loctite in the barrel nuts. Please know though, that any time you are adding a widener you are increasing the leverage the wheel has over the part of the shaft outside the lockout bearing.

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by 89redranger

I believe Traxxas stub axles are different than Axial, so those may not work. I would try the Junfac wideners, which are available in two different lengths. Red is +13mm per side, and the blue are +19mm per side. I have owned both of these, and they work well with a little blue loctite in the barrel nuts. Please know though, that any time you are adding a widener you are increasing the leverage the wheel has over the part of the shaft outside the lockout bearing.

Never thought of that,but thanks for the tip.I'll keep that in mine.It's just a Foff build I'm doing.It won't won't competing for any trophy,it just going to be a fun mobile if it breaks just fix it no Fancy stuff here....cheers man.

[alexchen86]

I've ran junfac 13mm hub extenders on an scx10 axle just to have the axle case snap apart in addition to the plastic c hub and knuckle on lightweight 2.2 HPI wheels breaking as well the drive cup actually breaking off from the stock Axial axles. Think about it...you're extending aluminum outwards from the hexes whether cvd or dog bone and that extra leverage created by the hub extenders will obviously cause the force of any impact to go towards the plastic axle housing. Now if you ran some beef toobz it might help the plastic housing hold...I doubt you'd want to buy aluminum axle housings either since they are pretty pricey for quality ones.

FOFF rigs are not easily built without something breaking the first 5 minutes depending on terrain, electronics, gearing material, locker strength, axle strength, tranny strength, suspension link strength, motor plate and hardware....finally a chassis that's light and will take a beating.

I tried to do an Ultra4 and FOFF 1.9 lightweight custom chassis Wraith on loaded scx10 axles before realizing that the price to have one always dependable would be waaaay too expensive for me!

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by alexchen86

I've ran junfac 13mm hub extenders on an scx10 axle just to have the axle case snap apart in addition to the plastic c hub and knuckle on lightweight 2.2 HPI wheels breaking as well the drive cup actually breaking off from the stock Axial axles. Think about it...you're extending aluminum outwards from the hexes whether cvd or dog bone and that extra leverage created by the hub extenders will obviously cause the force of any impact to go towards the plastic axle housing. Now if you ran some beef toobz it might help the plastic housing hold...I doubt you'd want to buy aluminum axle housings either since they are pretty pricey for quality ones.

FOFF rigs are not easily built without something breaking the first 5 minutes depending on terrain, electronics, gearing material, locker strength, axle strength, tranny strength, suspension link strength, motor plate and hardware....finally a chassis that's light and will take a beating.

I tried to do an Ultra4 and FOFF 1.9 lightweight custom chassis Wraith on loaded scx10 axles before realizing that the price to have one always dependable would be waaaay too expensive for me!

Wow i was just going to press pay for a set of Junfac +19mm Ext's.They are even wider and maybe worse by what your saying...not only that 2.2 "what" i bought 4 Proline 2.8 sand paws and they look big.this my first Foff build and maybe once it's built i hope it looks to be scale and like you said something is bound to break for sure.It's fun and expensive,but hey.Hopefully it would be for sand only....thanks for the head up

[M1tch]

If you could get longer beef tubes made, that would help with any flex problems. The extenders look a good idea, but put a lot of stress on the wheel bearings. Not a problem if you keep an eye on them

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by M1tch

If you could get longer beef tubes made, that would help with any flex problems. The extenders look a good idea, but put a lot of stress on the wheel bearings. Not a problem if you keep an eye on them

the beef tube sounds like the right choice but wouldn't i need to replace the shaft was lengthen with the beef tub...were do i find these tube in the vendor section if so I'll check there...thank man

[johnnyh66]

I've been running the Red Junfac wideners on my foff since I built it and haven't broke anything.
It's running a CC 5700kv on 3s with 2.2 Sand Paws, open front diff, Axial universals and beef tubes in the front, mip drive shafts and RR trans gears. I go full throttle all the time, jump it, bash it and smash it.

Here it is on 2s

[alexchen86]

Originally Posted by johnnyh66

I've been running the Red Junfac wideners on my foff since I built it and haven't broke anything.
It's running a CC 5700kv on 3s with 2.2 Sand Paws, open front diff, Axial universals and beef tubes in the front, mip drive shafts and RR trans gears. I go full throttle all the time, jump it, bash it and smash it.

Here it is on 2s

I've broken the stock first gen Axial scx10 axle running those wideners when just crawling a practice rock section!! It did a little rollover being an scx10 not a comp rig of course, then the driver front tire wedged into a small rock crevice and when I tried to slowly power through it while turning out towards flatter rock that's when the axle case, drive cup, and doggie bone head snapped in addition to the knuckles and c hubs. I was just running a cheap Integy 55t on a 1500mah 30C 3s cheap lipo.

I'd say maybe bc Axial's materials were not as forgiving as they are now...but who knows? Could also have been the fact that it was winter and the temps would make plastic a tad brittle?

FOFF rigs are a blast to build since everything is completely unique from everyone else's FOFF rig. Either way beef toobz are always a good cheap way to strengthen stock axle housings...you should consider doing he XR mod while you're at it to give yourself stronger universal axles and a wider stance.