RCCrawler Forums

JakeDaSnake · 06-24-2005, 07:29 PM

Hey, I've seen some people on here and on rcmt.net that used Lexan sheeting for a chassis, and was wondering how you cut it and can you drill and sand/file it like you can metal???

Thanks, and some good shots of Twin Force 4-link systems are welcome too...

Thanks
Jake

mrmaxxman · 06-25-2005, 07:40 AM

we do some lexan jobs at my work? my first question for you is what exactly are you using it for? like body panels on a tuber? or something like that? i am guessing you are using something fairly thin? mabe .090 ? you can cut it with a metal shear if you have access to one if not the easiest way i have found to cut it is get an exacto (sharp) and just scribe a line (dont try to cut all the way thru) then carefully bend the piece and it should just snap off on that line nice and clean. ( people cut sheetrock on the same principle, if you dont want to keep any of the clearness in the lexan you can sand ,file , shape it, and drill it with no probs .

JakeDaSnake · 06-25-2005, 07:43 AM

I dont have access to a shear (wish i did, lol) but I was talkin more along the lines of 1/4 inch thick stuff for chassis plates...

Thanks
Jake

Destroyer · 06-25-2005, 08:24 AM

mmmmm....bandsaw

mrmaxxman · 06-27-2005, 03:30 PM

i agree if its that thick use a band saw, or jig saw, if you have no access to a band saw, or hack saw if thats all ya have.

TLTCrawlin · 06-27-2005, 04:30 PM

jig saw will crack it- i got .250" lexan and I use a air powered dremel kinda thing lol dont kno the name its my dads!!

rckjeep · 06-27-2005, 05:57 PM

I worked in a plastic fab shop for a while and most plasitc can be cut with wood tools. We used a table saw for most cuts. Then would use a router to make nice smooth edges then use a special jewelers torch to polish the cuts to a glass like finish(but only on acrylic would we use the torch). A band saw would be a great way but make sure you don't go slow because it will gum up on you if it sits in the same spot for too long.

janoob38 · 06-27-2005, 09:32 PM

where could i get lexan?

JohnRobHolmes · 06-27-2005, 09:39 PM

yeah, dont go slow or it will heat up and be a mess! its a ***** to get off the blade afterwards...

SVEN · 06-27-2005, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by janoob38

where could i get lexan?

www.mcmaster.com

4x4XJ · 06-27-2005, 10:22 PM

I just made a bunch of peices out of 1/4 acylic for my stick chassis and i have a few tips. If you need to drill a hole in the pieces do it before you cut the pieces out. Its real easy to crack if you have a small piece when drilling. Drill your holes in steps, as in dont just make a pilot hole and then drill a 1/2 inch hole, make the pilot hole then use a slightly larger bit, then a slightly larger bit and so on. I had a lot of trouble cut out the pieces though. A jigsaw cant cut but half an inch or so before it cracks the lexan. I used a small hand saw for alittle but if it got too hot it would melt the lexan and then when I stopped it get stuck in the plastic and the blade would snap trying to get it out. I had the best luck using my dremel with a cut-off wheel, and then using the grinding wheel to smooth up the edges. Hopes this saves you some trouble. There was a lot of curses, busted up knuckles, and wasted time learning how to work with this stuff.

SteepJeep · 06-27-2005, 11:05 PM

Do remember however, Acrylic is a much more brittle material than lexan. Acrylic sheeting will snap or shatter on impact but lexan will bend and give. Also, as mentioned above, it is very hard to drill acrylic without it cracking or snapping on you.( you really want to stay away from acrylic ) Lexan sheets can also be bought at The Home Depot. The stuff I use comes in 8 X 10 sheets that are .90 inches thick (a little less than 1/8 probably 1/16) They cost me about 3 bucks a sheet. I have never had any problems with the product.
Have fun!
-Aaron-

BUBBA069 · 06-28-2005, 06:21 AM

they also make saw blades and drill bits just for cutting plastics, but the normal stuff works just as good. practice on scrap first. the finer the saw blade the better gives a smooth edge less sanding.

for lexan you can get a pack of wet/dry sand paper and wet sand the cut edges start low and work your way up to the higher grits, 3000 will get you a nice clean look.

Rockinrockcrawler · 06-28-2005, 06:48 AM

In high school my tech teacher had a lexan bending tool that would bend it perfectly and at any angle you like. It heated the lexan in a long strip area so only that partt would bend then you take it off and bend it by hand or use a table edge or whatever as a guide. it was pretty neat but i think it is somehting he made himself.

Stingrae71 · 06-29-2005, 09:53 PM

I've done a lot of work with acrylic and lexan for computer cases and other projects. Here are some tips:

1. If you buy sheets, leave the paper on for all your work. It cuts down on the binding from melted plastic. If you sheet doesn't have paper on it, cover both sides woth low tack masking paper before cutting.
2. Cutting: Use blades made for wood (not metal) these blades have large, corse teeth to help them clear material easier. They won't clog as much. I use a jigsaw with course wood blades and I've never snapped a piece. Cut at med speed with med-high rpms and always backup before you stop the blade, otherwise your blade will be melted to the sheet.
3. Drilling: Use sharp bits (new if possible). A drill press is best because the holes will heat up and warp quickly. If you don't have one, clamp the material good and keep a steady hand. Drill at med speed and don't try to force it (it will crack for sure). If the bit starts to gum up spray it with a little WD-40, that will help it clear.

I hope this helps
Rick

spicollie · 06-30-2005, 03:53 PM

I made my chassis out of 1/4 polycarbonate.. it was cut out in a band saw and bent in a break while being heated with a torch...

BENDER · 06-30-2005, 07:58 PM

I've done some machining of acrylic, the best cutting solution I found was dishsoap (Dawn) and water. We use to drill and tap solid acrylic rod about an inch deep, without any problems. If it heats up at all, as stated above, it will shatter or spiderweb on you.

Lexan is much more forgiving.

moparguy85 · 07-15-2005, 06:56 AM

what would be a good way to widen a normal lexan body. i'm wanting to widen a jeep body that pro-line makes and just wondering what would be the best method to this?

06-24-2005, 07:29 PM	#1
JakeDaSnake Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Mobile AL Posts: 217	How to cut and work lexan sheets?? Hey, I've seen some people on here and on rcmt.net that used Lexan sheeting for a chassis, and was wondering how you cut it and can you drill and sand/file it like you can metal??? Thanks, and some good shots of Twin Force 4-link systems are welcome too... Thanks Jake

06-25-2005, 07:40 AM	#2
mrmaxxman Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: toolsa, jokelahoma Posts: 501	we do some lexan jobs at my work? my first question for you is what exactly are you using it for? like body panels on a tuber? or something like that? i am guessing you are using something fairly thin? mabe .090 ? you can cut it with a metal shear if you have access to one if not the easiest way i have found to cut it is get an exacto (sharp) and just scribe a line (dont try to cut all the way thru) then carefully bend the piece and it should just snap off on that line nice and clean. ( people cut sheetrock on the same principle, if you dont want to keep any of the clearness in the lexan you can sand ,file , shape it, and drill it with no probs .

06-25-2005, 07:43 AM	#3
JakeDaSnake Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Mobile AL Posts: 217	I dont have access to a shear (wish i did, lol) but I was talkin more along the lines of 1/4 inch thick stuff for chassis plates... Thanks Jake

06-25-2005, 08:24 AM	#4
Destroyer Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: North GA Posts: 824	mmmmm....bandsaw

06-27-2005, 03:30 PM	#5
mrmaxxman Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: toolsa, jokelahoma Posts: 501	i agree if its that thick use a band saw, or jig saw, if you have no access to a band saw, or hack saw if thats all ya have.

06-27-2005, 04:30 PM	#6
TLTCrawlin I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Eastern WA Posts: 2,489	jig saw will crack it- i got .250" lexan and I use a air powered dremel kinda thing lol dont kno the name its my dads!!

06-27-2005, 05:57 PM	#7
rckjeep I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose Posts: 5,207	I worked in a plastic fab shop for a while and most plasitc can be cut with wood tools. We used a table saw for most cuts. Then would use a router to make nice smooth edges then use a special jewelers torch to polish the cuts to a glass like finish(but only on acrylic would we use the torch). A band saw would be a great way but make sure you don't go slow because it will gum up on you if it sits in the same spot for too long.

06-27-2005, 09:32 PM	#8
janoob38 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 3	where could i get lexan?

06-27-2005, 09:39 PM	#9
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	yeah, dont go slow or it will heat up and be a mess! its a ***** to get off the blade afterwards...

06-27-2005, 10:22 PM	#11
4x4XJ Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Auburn University Posts: 75	I just made a bunch of peices out of 1/4 acylic for my stick chassis and i have a few tips. If you need to drill a hole in the pieces do it before you cut the pieces out. Its real easy to crack if you have a small piece when drilling. Drill your holes in steps, as in dont just make a pilot hole and then drill a 1/2 inch hole, make the pilot hole then use a slightly larger bit, then a slightly larger bit and so on. I had a lot of trouble cut out the pieces though. A jigsaw cant cut but half an inch or so before it cracks the lexan. I used a small hand saw for alittle but if it got too hot it would melt the lexan and then when I stopped it get stuck in the plastic and the blade would snap trying to get it out. I had the best luck using my dremel with a cut-off wheel, and then using the grinding wheel to smooth up the edges. Hopes this saves you some trouble. There was a lot of curses, busted up knuckles, and wasted time learning how to work with this stuff.

06-27-2005, 11:05 PM	#12
SteepJeep Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Houston Posts: 94	Do remember however, Acrylic is a much more brittle material than lexan. Acrylic sheeting will snap or shatter on impact but lexan will bend and give. Also, as mentioned above, it is very hard to drill acrylic without it cracking or snapping on you.( you really want to stay away from acrylic ) Lexan sheets can also be bought at The Home Depot. The stuff I use comes in 8 X 10 sheets that are .90 inches thick (a little less than 1/8 probably 1/16) They cost me about 3 bucks a sheet. I have never had any problems with the product. Have fun! -Aaron-

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06-28-2005, 06:21 AM	#13
BUBBA069 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: st. louis Posts: 115	they also make saw blades and drill bits just for cutting plastics, but the normal stuff works just as good. practice on scrap first. the finer the saw blade the better gives a smooth edge less sanding. for lexan you can get a pack of wet/dry sand paper and wet sand the cut edges start low and work your way up to the higher grits, 3000 will get you a nice clean look.

06-28-2005, 06:48 AM	#14
Rockinrockcrawler Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: lost in vintage tamiya land. Posts: 305	In high school my tech teacher had a lexan bending tool that would bend it perfectly and at any angle you like. It heated the lexan in a long strip area so only that partt would bend then you take it off and bend it by hand or use a table edge or whatever as a guide. it was pretty neat but i think it is somehting he made himself.

06-29-2005, 09:53 PM	#15
Stingrae71 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Okinawa Posts: 30	I've done a lot of work with acrylic and lexan for computer cases and other projects. Here are some tips: 1. If you buy sheets, leave the paper on for all your work. It cuts down on the binding from melted plastic. If you sheet doesn't have paper on it, cover both sides woth low tack masking paper before cutting. 2. Cutting: Use blades made for wood (not metal) these blades have large, corse teeth to help them clear material easier. They won't clog as much. I use a jigsaw with course wood blades and I've never snapped a piece. Cut at med speed with med-high rpms and always backup before you stop the blade, otherwise your blade will be melted to the sheet. 3. Drilling: Use sharp bits (new if possible). A drill press is best because the holes will heat up and warp quickly. If you don't have one, clamp the material good and keep a steady hand. Drill at med speed and don't try to force it (it will crack for sure). If the bit starts to gum up spray it with a little WD-40, that will help it clear. I hope this helps Rick

06-30-2005, 03:53 PM	#16
spicollie Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: north carolina Posts: 118	I made my chassis out of 1/4 polycarbonate.. it was cut out in a band saw and bent in a break while being heated with a torch...

06-30-2005, 07:58 PM	#17
BENDER 2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake Posts: 8,328	I've done some machining of acrylic, the best cutting solution I found was dishsoap (Dawn) and water. We use to drill and tap solid acrylic rod about an inch deep, without any problems. If it heats up at all, as stated above, it will shatter or spiderweb on you. Lexan is much more forgiving.

07-15-2005, 06:56 AM	#18
moparguy85 Newbie Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: quad-cities Posts: 2	what would be a good way to widen a normal lexan body. i'm wanting to widen a jeep body that pro-line makes and just wondering what would be the best method to this?

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Thread: How to cut and work lexan sheets??