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09-25-2005, 09:26 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Ridgeway
Posts: 14
| 1/18 jeep makeing a clicking noise in front axle
I just bought the 1/18 jeep and I was climing a pretty steep incline and my front end is now not catching. I opened it up and everything looks like it should but it just wont catch. I have a 1/6 scale jeep and I have beet the s#^% out of it, and not a thing has went wrong with it. I feel a little upset the the smaller one is doing this to me when I figured that the big one would first. If anyone has any input, pics, or any help I would really appreciate it. Thanks guys |
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09-25-2005, 09:38 PM | #2 |
Ultimate RC Decals Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 3,761
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if everything looks fine it's prolly a misalignment with the gears. there's some posts about shimming it up. i haven't had to do this with mine so i can't tell ypu exactly what to do but it's something to look into.
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09-25-2005, 09:47 PM | #3 | |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Ridgeway
Posts: 14
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09-26-2005, 06:18 AM | #4 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: east side - cincy
Posts: 113
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i had that exact problem while i was out crawling a creek bed this weekend. my front at first didnt want to catch while going in reverse - then after a while forward didnt want to catch either, so here i was stuck in a creek bed with only 2 wheel drive. so my first thought was its the gear coming off the motor, because when i picked it up the front tires pulled, just not when there was any load on them. so i stuck it in high and managed to hobble back to camp and get it loaded onto the trailer. well, i get home and procede to run the rest of the battery out in high up and down my driveway, and notice the front seems to be pulling fine now...... so i flip it over and hold one of the tires and hit the throttle - and it pulls fine now with a load, so......my next assumption is that its the high/low shifter gear by the switch. so i rip it apart and inspect that gear case and discover it is still good, the motor gear is good, and no teeth are stripped or missing, so i put i back together and think theres no reason for it to be stripping/missing and not catching. but its only doing it in low - not high. so now i think its because the gears are getting out of alignment and not catching on each other like they should. so i try to tighten it all up with some spacers and shims to no avail....... its still slipping. so i rip it apart for like the 4th time, this time i test the throttle with the cover off and see that its actually the motor itself that is slipping...... so out comes the motor.. so i tear it apart and discover that the motor has a series of gear reduction cases off of the main motor, after like the first 2 cases (its kind of like a dual/triple case setup) there is a drive gear for your high range, then like 2 more reduction cases and the final gear for your low range, well, between the last 2 cases after the high range, there is a gear that is supposed to catch and engage for the low range, its a metal piece that has 3 tabs that are bent at a 45degree angle to cath the plastic gear it is up against, well, after a load is applied that gear has eventually stripped the plastic enough to not allow it to hold. so how to fix this i bent the metal tabs from like 45degrees to close to 90 so that its not so easy for them to slip out, plus i set a few very small dabs if silicone to each tab to secure it even more.... and after i thought about i realized i could have just put a pretty descent sized drop of silicone right in the center of the gear so it would secure it nicely against the reduction unit. i got it all back together and it works great now . . . on a side not this sporatic slipping happens in the rear axle too but usually when it gets bound up - which is what probably the cause of the reduction case's plastic gear getting stripped. so i am going to perform this tab bend/glue procedure on the rear axle motor to prevent it from doing the same in the future......... |
09-26-2005, 06:30 AM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: east side - cincy
Posts: 113
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sorry for the long winded reply, but its a cheap fix that just takes a little disassembling........ and makes for a stronger than stock case. i was also thinking, if you ever taken the motor apart and know what i am talking about - dotn you think you could stack the gear redcution cases as many as you could fit in there for a lower crawl ratio..... while i had it apart i noticed that they just had them stacked in there, so if you had a spare motor with the reduction gears off of it and you could squeeze one or 2 more in there you would be crawling slower than everyone else..... i might have to go out and get another one just for parts...... |
09-26-2005, 06:56 AM | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: melb austalia
Posts: 7
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i had a similar problem with my rear diff, all i did was take the whole thing apart and put it back together making sure every time i add a piece that its working, and mine works perfectly since... cheers Dean |
09-26-2005, 07:29 AM | #7 | |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Ridgeway
Posts: 14
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09-26-2005, 08:13 AM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: east side - cincy
Posts: 113
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im not sure what size they are, they are a little bit smaller than 2.2s. i got them off an old radio shack truck i had. i couldnt find a good way to mount the wheels onto it so i took the wheel off, and glued my nylint wheels to them. they are a little more stiff than i would like, but i grooved the heck out of them and they seem to work pretty good for me. i also made a cover for them so dirt and water cant get into the tire and slosh around all the time, i just took a piece of paperboard and cut it into a circle to look like a wheel. then i just stick it on the outside lipe of the tire and it looks like a wheel with a trailready beadlock.... i have some pictures so look for them in the future when i get around to getting them up. i also have stretched it 1" since thos pics.... thanks for the complement |
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