RCCrawler Forums

acrosteve · 08-12-2009, 02:49 PM

I plan on making my own links, and I see how popular it is, but I was planning on going with stainless steel.

Definitely don't want aluminum because it is to sticky on the rocks, but is Delrin slicker than stainless?

Is it just a cost issue?

K_B · 08-12-2009, 03:43 PM

Delrin is very slippery; especially compared to aluminum or stainless. I'm pretty sure it's cheaper than stainless as well and easier to work with.

Not as strong though, which is why you see delrin links that have alot of extra beef like the Kamikaze Kustoms links or standard round links that are like 5/8" in diameter...

rob_b · 08-12-2009, 06:43 PM

5/8"

I need to see a picture of this rig. 5/16" round solid Delrin makes a great link for a 2.2

Madkoifish · 08-12-2009, 07:13 PM

Yeah, stainless hollow rod for say revo links and threaded rod is like 8$ for 12" at ace/lhc (might be cheaper on the net etc)

Cutting, bending, drilling, and then tapping solid stainless is something I wouldnt want to experience.
I'd like to find say delrin thin enough to slide over my alum links. (haven't tried the BIC pen thing though)

Almighty Malach · 08-12-2009, 07:19 PM

I prefer stainless actually. It doesn't seem to get as rough in any amount of time; I've been running the same ss links for almost a year and they haven't gotten any less slick on the rocks. The same can't be said for my delrin skidplate, I've had to sand it down a few times.

RustlerHustler · 08-12-2009, 07:19 PM

I just put a delrin skid on my stock Axial chassis and it's slick as snot. Slides 10X better than the stock plastic one.

Just got my R2J Kustoms 3/8" delrin links to use on my SWX. If they slide like the skid I will be a happy camper.

acrosteve · 08-12-2009, 08:06 PM

I was planning on using the stainless rod with the 8-32 all thread.

Cave Dave · 08-12-2009, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acrosteve

I was planning on using the stainless rod with the 8-32 all thread.

Good comprimise between "slippery" and "strong". I like my Stainless lowers,they don't flex at all. I ran some Delrin lowers for a while but they just flex WAY to much on a 2.2 for my taste.

Sydwaiz · 08-13-2009, 09:16 AM

Delrin is cheap and easy to work with. I'm making SS links. Thought about making tool steel links and having them heat treated and nitrided too.

War Pig · 08-13-2009, 09:35 AM

I run straight 1/4" Delrin lowers in front and bent 1/4" stainless lowers in back. The Delrin flexes too much in back for me. My rear links are about an inch longer than the fronts.
I also run a Lexan skid in the rear, so the links don't contact the rocks much.

Failedabortion · 08-13-2009, 02:08 PM

1/4" was fine on my comp 1.9 but I'd never run it as lowers on my 2.2

I'm running downtown's lower derlin links on my 2.2, Last links I will buy for it.

Offroader5 · 08-13-2009, 02:38 PM

It depends on the construction of the acetal link.

If you use solid acetal rod, then it needs to be a larger diameter material so it doesn't bend all over the place. This is why you see 5/16", 3/8", and even 7/16" acetal links...because they are more likely than not a solid rod. You couldn't get away with using 1/4" solid rod on any links longer than say 2 inches. It would just flex way too much. 5/16" is a MINIMUM if using solid rod.

On the other hand, if you use acetal tube, you can get away with a much smaller diameter. I use 1/4" diameter acetal tube for almost all my links. I run 8-32 or M4 all thread down the center of the tube (as a slip fit) end to end and then thread on the Revo ends. This gives me a small diameter link so it doesn't look so out of scale, but still allows for the slipperyness of the acetal as a coating. The threaded rod down the center stiffens up the smaller diameter acetal so that it's really strong.

Stainless is a bit more of a pain to work with and could be more expensive depending on where you source it. It is still a good choice for the rocks since it's a bit harder than standard mild steel and doesn't gouge much. Takes alot of abuse.

08-12-2009, 02:49 PM	#1
acrosteve Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Jackson Posts: 141	Why Delrin? I plan on making my own links, and I see how popular it is, but I was planning on going with stainless steel. Definitely don't want aluminum because it is to sticky on the rocks, but is Delrin slicker than stainless? Is it just a cost issue?

08-12-2009, 03:43 PM	#2
K_B I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 2,048	Delrin is very slippery; especially compared to aluminum or stainless. I'm pretty sure it's cheaper than stainless as well and easier to work with. Not as strong though, which is why you see delrin links that have alot of extra beef like the Kamikaze Kustoms links or standard round links that are like 5/8" in diameter...

08-12-2009, 06:43 PM	#3
rob_b I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: QC-AZ Posts: 2,352	5/8" I need to see a picture of this rig. 5/16" round solid Delrin makes a great link for a 2.2

08-12-2009, 07:13 PM	#4
Madkoifish Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Auburn Posts: 360	Yeah, stainless hollow rod for say revo links and threaded rod is like 8$ for 12" at ace/lhc (might be cheaper on the net etc) Cutting, bending, drilling, and then tapping solid stainless is something I wouldnt want to experience. I'd like to find say delrin thin enough to slide over my alum links. (haven't tried the BIC pen thing though)

08-12-2009, 07:19 PM	#5
Almighty Malach RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Crawlerado Posts: 1,411	I prefer stainless actually. It doesn't seem to get as rough in any amount of time; I've been running the same ss links for almost a year and they haven't gotten any less slick on the rocks. The same can't be said for my delrin skidplate, I've had to sand it down a few times.

08-12-2009, 07:19 PM	#6
RustlerHustler Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ukiah Posts: 370	I just put a delrin skid on my stock Axial chassis and it's slick as snot. Slides 10X better than the stock plastic one. Just got my R2J Kustoms 3/8" delrin links to use on my SWX. If they slide like the skid I will be a happy camper.

08-12-2009, 08:06 PM	#7
acrosteve Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Jackson Posts: 141	I was planning on using the stainless rod with the 8-32 all thread.

08-13-2009, 09:16 AM	#9
Sydwaiz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Torrance, CA Posts: 492	Delrin is cheap and easy to work with. I'm making SS links. Thought about making tool steel links and having them heat treated and nitrided too.

08-13-2009, 09:35 AM	#10
War Pig I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: The beautiful Pacific Northwest Posts: 6,923	I run straight 1/4" Delrin lowers in front and bent 1/4" stainless lowers in back. The Delrin flexes too much in back for me. My rear links are about an inch longer than the fronts. I also run a Lexan skid in the rear, so the links don't contact the rocks much.

08-13-2009, 02:08 PM	#11
Failedabortion Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Surprise, Az Posts: 848	1/4" was fine on my comp 1.9 but I'd never run it as lowers on my 2.2 I'm running downtown's lower derlin links on my 2.2, Last links I will buy for it.

08-13-2009, 02:38 PM	#12
Offroader5 Picky Fab'r/Acetal Junky Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Arizona Desert/AJ Posts: 3,073	It depends on the construction of the acetal link. If you use solid acetal rod, then it needs to be a larger diameter material so it doesn't bend all over the place. This is why you see 5/16", 3/8", and even 7/16" acetal links...because they are more likely than not a solid rod. You couldn't get away with using 1/4" solid rod on any links longer than say 2 inches. It would just flex way too much. 5/16" is a MINIMUM if using solid rod. On the other hand, if you use acetal tube, you can get away with a much smaller diameter. I use 1/4" diameter acetal tube for almost all my links. I run 8-32 or M4 all thread down the center of the tube (as a slip fit) end to end and then thread on the Revo ends. This gives me a small diameter link so it doesn't look so out of scale, but still allows for the slipperyness of the acetal as a coating. The threaded rod down the center stiffens up the smaller diameter acetal so that it's really strong. Stainless is a bit more of a pain to work with and could be more expensive depending on where you source it. It is still a good choice for the rocks since it's a bit harder than standard mild steel and doesn't gouge much. Takes alot of abuse.

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