RCCrawler Forums

MTUJeeper · 12-24-2005, 09:25 PM

There was someone on here who built portal axles for their nylint, but now I can't find the thread, maybe I am just dumb. I wanted to find out what they ended up doing to pull it off. Can anyone help me out? Thanks, Christian

NickRummy · 12-24-2005, 09:32 PM

pretty sure it was a 1:18 and i think they did pull it off......

yup here it is. the pics aren't showing up though because he exceeded the bandwidth

sneak peek

player · 12-24-2005, 09:44 PM

Hmm, how could we go about doing this?
Think about it, even more gearing!
Can anyone say stump pulling power? (and exploded axles)

The Lyin' King · 12-24-2005, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by player

Hmm, how could we go about doing this?
Think about it, even more gearing!
Can anyone say stump pulling power? (and exploded axles)

Not to mention "Clearance Clarence".

seanc · 12-24-2005, 10:19 PM

actually with more gearing at that end of the spectrum the strain would be lessened on the rest of the patent pending drivetrain of the nylint.

player · 12-24-2005, 11:43 PM

Heh, "Patent Pending", nice!
I bet with the increased torque, binding up the wheels would cause the wheel attachment method to strip.

Optiskate · 12-25-2005, 12:06 AM

Seems like a cool idea. You'd probably run into similar problems that you'd have with a 1:1 though. Thing would be so damn tall. Cant see the pics, so thats my guess any way. I ran in a 1:1 buggy with mog 5 tons or something like that and the axles were so heavy it had to get completely side ways to go over. It was sweet, but damn tall. If the same theories apply to RC crawling that do the 1:1's (I wouldnt know cause I drove mine for an hour in the living room before it broke), then I should be golden.

seanc · 12-25-2005, 02:16 PM

if you wanted it to ride lower, you could cut out the chassis, so the axle sat up in it more. then all you would need to figure out is shock mounts. maybe a set of shorter actual RC shocks on the arms, with some heavier valving and springs in them.

MTUJeeper · 12-25-2005, 07:24 PM

Thanks, no wonder I couldn't find it, I thought it was for a 1:6. I love portals, I want a set of Mog 404s in my Jeep, they make a D60 look tiny, lol. Hummer portal boxes are about 100 per tire, if I can figure out how to run them on the D44 (not sure what their spline count is) I would get a Chevy 44, flip it so it is high pinion driver side drop, and then flip my 9" so it is a high pinion (I know they will bolt onto a 9". Okay, I can wake up now and stop dreaming...anyhow, I would like to try and figure out how to build these for a 1:6 nylint, but there are no hobby shops up by me.

seanc · 12-25-2005, 08:11 PM

puttin hummer boxes on the end of a d-44 would be a huge waste of money, say buh-bye to your r/p and axles, and steering joints.

MTUJeeper · 12-25-2005, 09:00 PM

I know I know, but I really don't have money to spend on a 60, and if I am gonnna do a 60 with portals, I might as well get Mog 404s...guess I will have to wait until I am done with this college thing.

Mutt · 12-25-2005, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanc

puttin hummer boxes on the end of a d-44 would be a huge waste of money, say buh-bye to your r/p and axles, and steering joints.

Do you have any idea what you are talking about or are you just spilled poo from your mouth??

Portal boxes are much easier on the actual drivetrain due to the added reduction downstream of everything numbnuts.

MTUJeeper · 12-25-2005, 10:05 PM

It would be a huge waste of money though...and I don't see my balljoints loving me for it, but I really didn't want to get into an arguement about it...I was wondering what his reasoning was for my ring and pinion and axles not liking it...maybe he can elaborate.

seanc · 12-25-2005, 10:36 PM

i know what i am talking about, in fact i made that exact comment in this thread that portals are easier on the drive train. but d-44 are a waste of money to build. i have been building trucks my entire life and i run a fab buisness on the side.

when i get chance to reboot my picture server i will post up a couple of pics of what i do to chromoly axles.

MTUJeeper · 12-25-2005, 11:28 PM

Can ya explain why my r/p and axles wouldn't like it? Not that I am planning on it, just wondering. If I go portals, it will be with mogs...I mean, when you can turn so tight you have CVs on your axleshafts...ooh, think I need to go change my boxers...lol... Thanks, Christian

run2jeepn · 12-25-2005, 11:36 PM

Here is a Jeep with bolt on portals.

They make them for Dana 44's, Dana 60's on a 8in drop and a 4in drop.
WWW.TKOJEEPS.COM. I 'd love to have the 4in drop's for my Dana 44's.
The 8in drop portals cost $8000 USD. It's a little high.

MTUJeeper · 12-26-2005, 11:39 AM

Yeah, I have seen those before, although last time it was only for 60s. I am looking back on it wondering why I just didn't go with a 60 in the first place. I got 100 into an axle, 100 into new shafts, 50 into new joints, 80 into balljoints, 300 into high steer arms and stud kit, 80 for knuckles, spindles, caliper brackets, stub shafts, 50 for new bearings, 45 for brakes, and then probably 250 for tie rod and drag link for a total of 1055. Granted that is what I would pay for a 60 that probably needs a bit of work, but the extra money would be worth it. I went with the HP D44 and then put Chevy outers on for flat tops for hi-steer. I don't think I should have trouble with the 44 though, not until I get my 383 built.

seanc · 12-26-2005, 12:30 PM

thqt sounds like a pretty good deal on a 44

seeing as how it is almost brand new with high-steer. your gears will explode when you are locked up, fully wedged and when you give it gas and an axle breaks causing all the load that was on the diff to go away, then you will have a huge shock load going through the axle ending up at the r/p and it will "whip" back causing teeth to go boom.

seen it, done it.

MTUJeeper · 12-26-2005, 12:57 PM

Well, got looking into it...might have to get another 9" and build a steering 9" front axle. BLING! I could probably sell the 9" and make up the cost difference. Gotta look into it more. I live in Michigan though, so we are a lot easier on our axles than rock crawling, although I would like to try it some day.

12-24-2005, 09:25 PM	#1
MTUJeeper Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: South Range Posts: 109	Portal Axles There was someone on here who built portal axles for their nylint, but now I can't find the thread, maybe I am just dumb. I wanted to find out what they ended up doing to pull it off. Can anyone help me out? Thanks, Christian

12-24-2005, 09:32 PM	#2
NickRummy RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Akron Posts: 1,784	pretty sure it was a 1:18 and i think they did pull it off...... yup here it is. the pics aren't showing up though because he exceeded the bandwidth sneak peek

12-24-2005, 09:44 PM	#3
player Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Honolulu Posts: 109	Hmm, how could we go about doing this? Think about it, even more gearing! Can anyone say stump pulling power? (and exploded axles)

12-24-2005, 10:19 PM	#5
seanc Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Lake Stevens, Wa Posts: 13	actually with more gearing at that end of the spectrum the strain would be lessened on the rest of the patent pending drivetrain of the nylint.

12-24-2005, 11:43 PM	#6
player Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Honolulu Posts: 109	Heh, "Patent Pending", nice! I bet with the increased torque, binding up the wheels would cause the wheel attachment method to strip.

12-25-2005, 12:06 AM	#7
Optiskate Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: W. Richland Posts: 179	Seems like a cool idea. You'd probably run into similar problems that you'd have with a 1:1 though. Thing would be so damn tall. Cant see the pics, so thats my guess any way. I ran in a 1:1 buggy with mog 5 tons or something like that and the axles were so heavy it had to get completely side ways to go over. It was sweet, but damn tall. If the same theories apply to RC crawling that do the 1:1's (I wouldnt know cause I drove mine for an hour in the living room before it broke), then I should be golden.

12-25-2005, 02:16 PM	#8
seanc Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Lake Stevens, Wa Posts: 13	if you wanted it to ride lower, you could cut out the chassis, so the axle sat up in it more. then all you would need to figure out is shock mounts. maybe a set of shorter actual RC shocks on the arms, with some heavier valving and springs in them.

12-25-2005, 07:24 PM	#9
MTUJeeper Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: South Range Posts: 109	Thanks, no wonder I couldn't find it, I thought it was for a 1:6. I love portals, I want a set of Mog 404s in my Jeep, they make a D60 look tiny, lol. Hummer portal boxes are about 100 per tire, if I can figure out how to run them on the D44 (not sure what their spline count is) I would get a Chevy 44, flip it so it is high pinion driver side drop, and then flip my 9" so it is a high pinion (I know they will bolt onto a 9". Okay, I can wake up now and stop dreaming...anyhow, I would like to try and figure out how to build these for a 1:6 nylint, but there are no hobby shops up by me.

12-25-2005, 08:11 PM	#10
seanc Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Lake Stevens, Wa Posts: 13	puttin hummer boxes on the end of a d-44 would be a huge waste of money, say buh-bye to your r/p and axles, and steering joints.

12-25-2005, 09:00 PM	#11
MTUJeeper Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: South Range Posts: 109	I know I know, but I really don't have money to spend on a 60, and if I am gonnna do a 60 with portals, I might as well get Mog 404s...guess I will have to wait until I am done with this college thing.

12-25-2005, 10:05 PM	#13
MTUJeeper Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: South Range Posts: 109	It would be a huge waste of money though...and I don't see my balljoints loving me for it, but I really didn't want to get into an arguement about it...I was wondering what his reasoning was for my ring and pinion and axles not liking it...maybe he can elaborate.

Sponsored Links

12-25-2005, 10:36 PM	#14
seanc Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Lake Stevens, Wa Posts: 13	i know what i am talking about, in fact i made that exact comment in this thread that portals are easier on the drive train. but d-44 are a waste of money to build. i have been building trucks my entire life and i run a fab buisness on the side. when i get chance to reboot my picture server i will post up a couple of pics of what i do to chromoly axles.

12-25-2005, 11:28 PM	#15
MTUJeeper Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: South Range Posts: 109	Can ya explain why my r/p and axles wouldn't like it? Not that I am planning on it, just wondering. If I go portals, it will be with mogs...I mean, when you can turn so tight you have CVs on your axleshafts...ooh, think I need to go change my boxers...lol... Thanks, Christian

12-25-2005, 11:36 PM	#16
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	Here is a Jeep with bolt on portals. They make them for Dana 44's, Dana 60's on a 8in drop and a 4in drop. WWW.TKOJEEPS.COM. I 'd love to have the 4in drop's for my Dana 44's. The 8in drop portals cost $8000 USD. It's a little high.

12-26-2005, 11:39 AM	#17
MTUJeeper Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: South Range Posts: 109	Yeah, I have seen those before, although last time it was only for 60s. I am looking back on it wondering why I just didn't go with a 60 in the first place. I got 100 into an axle, 100 into new shafts, 50 into new joints, 80 into balljoints, 300 into high steer arms and stud kit, 80 for knuckles, spindles, caliper brackets, stub shafts, 50 for new bearings, 45 for brakes, and then probably 250 for tie rod and drag link for a total of 1055. Granted that is what I would pay for a 60 that probably needs a bit of work, but the extra money would be worth it. I went with the HP D44 and then put Chevy outers on for flat tops for hi-steer. I don't think I should have trouble with the 44 though, not until I get my 383 built.

12-26-2005, 12:30 PM	#18
seanc Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Lake Stevens, Wa Posts: 13	thqt sounds like a pretty good deal on a 44 seeing as how it is almost brand new with high-steer. your gears will explode when you are locked up, fully wedged and when you give it gas and an axle breaks causing all the load that was on the diff to go away, then you will have a huge shock load going through the axle ending up at the r/p and it will "whip" back causing teeth to go boom. seen it, done it.

12-26-2005, 12:57 PM	#19
MTUJeeper Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: South Range Posts: 109	Well, got looking into it...might have to get another 9" and build a steering 9" front axle. BLING! I could probably sell the 9" and make up the cost difference. Gotta look into it more. I live in Michigan though, so we are a lot easier on our axles than rock crawling, although I would like to try it some day.

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Thread: Portal Axles