RCCrawler Forums

Mutt · 12-31-2005, 08:04 AM

Someone asked for some tire photos...
From left to Right
-Narrowed Wheel, shallow lugs and sidewall lugs removed (my personal fav)
-Standard Wheel, shallow lugs and sidewall luges removed (insane sidewall flex)
-Standard Wheel, Every other entire treadbar and sidewall lug removed (Eh, its alright)
-Standard Wheel, mod of previous, every other lug again removed, way too much flex not enough tread.

I have since made aluminum skids from cut up cans glued to the plastic, its been used some

Rear Axle Cover

Rear Axle Cover Removed

First Look Inside

High/Low Range selector, notice the small spring by the pivot? This allows the gears on the selector to be pushed past the gear drum until both axles are engaged, the tension is then released and the gears re-mesh. Brilliant!

Passenger Side "Gen 2" axle shaft, wheel bearing, and drive coupler. This white coupler is a common weak point.

Driver Side axle shaft, it engages the actual driving axle by a teeny tiny pin, you see inside the shaft how it engages.

Drive Motor of course

Drive Coupler on left, HIGH/LOW Planetary, HIGH/LOW slider, Drive motor planetary

HIGH/LOW Gear assembly cover

HIGH/LOW Motor setup

This white collar drive coupler is a weak link, the "Gen 3" or upgraded chassis as people know, have metal collars. As you can see at this point my collar is already slightly deformed, you are better off filling this with JB weld and reassembling it from the get-go.

These four small balls are all that are used to connect the drive planetary to the HIGH/LOW Range planetary assembly, slap some grease on these and grease the gear boxes and things work much smoother and quieter.

A Small pin on the far right side of the metal shaft must be removed, a pair of sidecuts used to wedge and wiggle made short work of its press fit, don't loose this pin as it actually drives the driverside tire.

The inner workings of the HIGH/LOW Planetary, the blue gear is a direct drive portion while the white ball/shaft assembly gets driven further into it in LOW and then drives the small 3 gear planetary.

HIGH Range

Inside the HIGH/LOW Gearbox

LOW Range Gears

The drive motor planetary assembly

LOW Again

Steer axle cover

Steer Axle First Look

Passenger Side Knuckle

These are press fit into the knuckle bearings, the knuckle bearings are pressed in as well.

This pin must be removed from the pitman arm in order to pull the steering box

Steering box pulled from steer axle

Cover removed from steering box

As you can see, LEFT to RIGHT. Steering position sensor, Pitman arm, Spacer, Steering gearbox (3 stage planetary!), Steering motor on bottom.

Sorry, removed the drive motor cover before taking a photo of it or the planetary assembly, almost identical to the rear assembly.

1bigtracker · 12-31-2005, 08:15 AM

We need a FAQ or make this a sticky.

Stu

Mutt · 12-31-2005, 08:56 AM

I figured out, in my mind, how to use the steering assemblies triple geared planetary system to make an ultra low gearbox.

This would in theory allow for a high range lower that the current low and a low way lower that the current low range...Which is how this things should have been built in the first place.

Snow · 12-31-2005, 09:01 AM

imagine the run time on the battery alone if it works

Mutt · 12-31-2005, 09:10 AM

I lightly greased all my gearboxes with Mobil1 Synthetic Wheelbearing grease...Wow, the gearboxes are super quiet now, I also forced grease into the "wheel" bearings as these bearings are NON-SEALED units, meaning if you dive into water alot, these bearings will be ruined. So i greased the area around them as well to help prevent water intrusion and pooling. I greased any moving part, such as the knuckle's "kingpins".

I also found that leaving the "tierod" cover off is a bad thing, it allows wayyy too much deflection and leads to a bent tierod.

I have since run a screw through the front cover to keep the tierod from bowing upward.

I also did not lubricate, but cleaned the high/low motor and gear assembly. I noticed lithium grease thrown about inside the cover and on the motor pulley and belt.

Yes I am still using stock belts not o-rings with no slippage, just sanding and chemical cleaning has worked wonders.

RANOVRU · 12-31-2005, 09:35 AM

Nice pics. I pulled my rear apart this morning before work. My "t-case" gears are stripped so I'm gonna permently lock mine into low, which is 99% of what I use anyway.

Keep us updated on the gear idea you mentioned. Once I get more time to look at mine I may try to do something simular.

I was also thinking of a way to possible get rid of belt drive system and either go with some type of metal gear set-up or chain-drive deal. I'm gonna look at mine a little closer later and anything that's plastic that think I can replace with metal I'm going to.

Could you get better pics of the steering set-up...

Dana44 · 01-05-2006, 03:04 PM

how'd you remove the front pins that hold the spindles in? ( the front hubs,, the pins that hold them in)

tuck n roll · 01-06-2006, 11:52 PM

Thanks for the breakdown. It made it easy for this newbie to replace a axle pin using a piece of a allen key.

Pantera · 01-30-2006, 09:49 AM

thx for the pics man. Helped me in getting the steering servo out of the front diff assembly.

bipolarcrawler · 02-02-2006, 10:21 PM

have you tried this yet mutt?sounds like a good idea

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mutt

I figured out, in my mind, how to use the steering assemblies triple geared planetary system to make an ultra low gearbox.

This would in theory allow for a high range lower that the current low and a low way lower that the current low range...Which is how this things should have been built in the first place.

camoTJ · 02-02-2006, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mutt

I figured out, in my mind, how to use the steering assemblies triple geared planetary system to make an ultra low gearbox.

This would in theory allow for a high range lower that the current low and a low way lower that the current low range...Which is how this things should have been built in the first place.

they are geared to low already... you have no wheel speed it sucks. even lower would make them crawl worse

vlmarshall · 02-03-2006, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camoTJ

they are geared to low already... you have no wheel speed it sucks. even lower would make them crawl worse

Are you kidding? All us 1:1 guys don't spend thousands of dollars for portal axles, insanely low ring&pinion gears,and stacked T-cases, for NOTHING. Low wheel speed is CONTROL. The Nylint's a crawler, not a desert racer.

Ever tried to stop a glacier?

Oh, BTW, Mutt, THANKS for posting this thread and taking the time to shoot all those pictures, great job.

Derek · 02-18-2006, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vlmarshall

Are you kidding? All us 1:1 guys don't spend thousands of dollars for portal axles, insanely low ring&pinion gears,and stacked T-cases, for NOTHING. Low wheel speed is CONTROL. The Nylint's a crawler, not a desert racer.

Ever tried to stop a glacier?

Oh, BTW, Mutt, THANKS for posting this thread and taking the time to shoot all those pictures, great job.

i agree
the only time i wish i could get a little wheel speed is right when its about to roll, so i could save it by throwing it in reverse

Digger · 03-13-2006, 04:21 PM

Thanks for the pics. They also helped me replace a snapped drive pin on the back axle of my 1Gen rig. Although instead of the allen key, I actually used an e-clip style Tamiya Juggernaut 2 drive shaft U-joint pin I found rolling around my workbench. I just had to grind it a little shorter to fit inside the stub axle sleeve...

badger · 03-22-2006, 01:13 PM

We have to many stickies in this forum, I have un stuck this and added a link to this in the The Ultimate Nylint mod guide - Links to every modification!

scorpion1 · 06-22-2006, 03:02 PM

I have just pulled mine apart, and for the love of money I can not figure out what part of the shaft (steel) is attached to the gears. I have tried to super glue it in several differant places, with no luck. I have it setting in the shed right now because if I get it back out and try it one more time it might end up as a boat ancore. I can get a new axle for it threw nylint but there is nothing wrong with the one that I have. (other than it dont work) I have taken it apart to put the greese in the gears like posted and now I cant get it back together right. Any help would be great.
Thanks in advance
Marc

S-Dog · 06-22-2006, 06:59 PM

can you post some pics so we can tell you where your assembly problem is?

scorpion1 · 07-27-2006, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S-Dog

can you post some pics so we can tell you where your assembly problem is?

ok I have pics now and I have posted them in the other section but I will post them again here.

I need to know what gear is actually conected to the drive shaft.

I have super glued, JB Welded, and even drilled and pinned with no luck. My guess is I am doing all this to the wrong gear. I have been doing this to the out side gear on the passanger side. The very last photo will show you where I have been doing all this labor to. I am starting to thing that it might be a lost cause.

Now in this photo I am thinking that the greenish colored gear is the one that should be "glued to the axle shaft"

and as you might be ably to see, This is the one that I have been trying to get to atach to the shaft. You can kind of see the bugered up end. It is however still usable but just looks bad. Which one do you think needs to be attached to the shaft?

That is the gear I have been glueing and welding and even drilled and pinned. after all this I think its the wrong gear I should be working on.
Sorry for the bad quality of the photo.
thanks again
Marc

12-31-2005, 08:04 AM	#1
Mutt Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Evansville Posts: 137	Axle Breakdown Pics, NOT DIALUP FRIENDLY! Someone asked for some tire photos... From left to Right -Narrowed Wheel, shallow lugs and sidewall lugs removed (my personal fav) -Standard Wheel, shallow lugs and sidewall luges removed (insane sidewall flex) -Standard Wheel, Every other entire treadbar and sidewall lug removed (Eh, its alright) -Standard Wheel, mod of previous, every other lug again removed, way too much flex not enough tread. I have since made aluminum skids from cut up cans glued to the plastic, its been used some Rear Axle Cover Rear Axle Cover Removed First Look Inside High/Low Range selector, notice the small spring by the pivot? This allows the gears on the selector to be pushed past the gear drum until both axles are engaged, the tension is then released and the gears re-mesh. Brilliant! Passenger Side "Gen 2" axle shaft, wheel bearing, and drive coupler. This white coupler is a common weak point. Driver Side axle shaft, it engages the actual driving axle by a teeny tiny pin, you see inside the shaft how it engages. Drive Motor of course Drive Coupler on left, HIGH/LOW Planetary, HIGH/LOW slider, Drive motor planetary HIGH/LOW Gear assembly cover HIGH/LOW Motor setup This white collar drive coupler is a weak link, the "Gen 3" or upgraded chassis as people know, have metal collars. As you can see at this point my collar is already slightly deformed, you are better off filling this with JB weld and reassembling it from the get-go. These four small balls are all that are used to connect the drive planetary to the HIGH/LOW Range planetary assembly, slap some grease on these and grease the gear boxes and things work much smoother and quieter. A Small pin on the far right side of the metal shaft must be removed, a pair of sidecuts used to wedge and wiggle made short work of its press fit, don't loose this pin as it actually drives the driverside tire. The inner workings of the HIGH/LOW Planetary, the blue gear is a direct drive portion while the white ball/shaft assembly gets driven further into it in LOW and then drives the small 3 gear planetary. HIGH Range Inside the HIGH/LOW Gearbox LOW Range Gears The drive motor planetary assembly LOW Again Steer axle cover Steer Axle First Look Passenger Side Knuckle These are press fit into the knuckle bearings, the knuckle bearings are pressed in as well. This pin must be removed from the pitman arm in order to pull the steering box Steering box pulled from steer axle Cover removed from steering box As you can see, LEFT to RIGHT. Steering position sensor, Pitman arm, Spacer, Steering gearbox (3 stage planetary!), Steering motor on bottom. Sorry, removed the drive motor cover before taking a photo of it or the planetary assembly, almost identical to the rear assembly. Last edited by Mutt; 01-02-2006 at 04:08 PM.

12-31-2005, 09:10 AM	#5
Mutt Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Evansville Posts: 137	I lightly greased all my gearboxes with Mobil1 Synthetic Wheelbearing grease...Wow, the gearboxes are super quiet now, I also forced grease into the "wheel" bearings as these bearings are NON-SEALED units, meaning if you dive into water alot, these bearings will be ruined. So i greased the area around them as well to help prevent water intrusion and pooling. I greased any moving part, such as the knuckle's "kingpins". I also found that leaving the "tierod" cover off is a bad thing, it allows wayyy too much deflection and leads to a bent tierod. I have since run a screw through the front cover to keep the tierod from bowing upward. I also did not lubricate, but cleaned the high/low motor and gear assembly. I noticed lithium grease thrown about inside the cover and on the motor pulley and belt. Yes I am still using stock belts not o-rings with no slippage, just sanding and chemical cleaning has worked wonders. Last edited by Mutt; 12-31-2005 at 09:14 AM.

06-22-2006, 03:02 PM	#16
scorpion1 Newbie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Tucson Posts: 9	rearend problems I have just pulled mine apart, and for the love of money I can not figure out what part of the shaft (steel) is attached to the gears. I have tried to super glue it in several differant places, with no luck. I have it setting in the shed right now because if I get it back out and try it one more time it might end up as a boat ancore. I can get a new axle for it threw nylint but there is nothing wrong with the one that I have. (other than it dont work) I have taken it apart to put the greese in the gears like posted and now I cant get it back together right. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance Marc

12-31-2005, 08:15 AM	#2
1bigtracker Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VT Burlinton Posts: 118	We need a FAQ or make this a sticky. Stu

12-31-2005, 08:56 AM	#3
Mutt Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Evansville Posts: 137	I figured out, in my mind, how to use the steering assemblies triple geared planetary system to make an ultra low gearbox. This would in theory allow for a high range lower that the current low and a low way lower that the current low range...Which is how this things should have been built in the first place.

12-31-2005, 09:01 AM	#4
Snow Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Price, UT Posts: 108	imagine the run time on the battery alone if it works

12-31-2005, 09:35 AM	#6
RANOVRU Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Mechanicsville, VA Posts: 464	Nice pics. I pulled my rear apart this morning before work. My "t-case" gears are stripped so I'm gonna permently lock mine into low, which is 99% of what I use anyway. Keep us updated on the gear idea you mentioned. Once I get more time to look at mine I may try to do something simular. I was also thinking of a way to possible get rid of belt drive system and either go with some type of metal gear set-up or chain-drive deal. I'm gonna look at mine a little closer later and anything that's plastic that think I can replace with metal I'm going to. Could you get better pics of the steering set-up...

01-05-2006, 03:04 PM	#7
Dana44 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Byron Posts: 112	how'd you remove the front pins that hold the spindles in? ( the front hubs,, the pins that hold them in)

01-06-2006, 11:52 PM	#8
tuck n roll Newbie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Downey Posts: 6	Thanks for the breakdown. It made it easy for this newbie to replace a axle pin using a piece of a allen key.

01-30-2006, 09:49 AM	#9
Pantera Newbie Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Knoxville Posts: 30	thx for the pics man. Helped me in getting the steering servo out of the front diff assembly.

03-13-2006, 04:21 PM	#14
Digger Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Southwestern PA Posts: 259	Thanks for the pics. They also helped me replace a snapped drive pin on the back axle of my 1Gen rig. Although instead of the allen key, I actually used an e-clip style Tamiya Juggernaut 2 drive shaft U-joint pin I found rolling around my workbench. I just had to grind it a little shorter to fit inside the stub axle sleeve...

03-22-2006, 01:13 PM	#15
badger Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal Posts: 11,402	We have to many stickies in this forum, I have un stuck this and added a link to this in the The Ultimate Nylint mod guide - Links to every modification!

06-22-2006, 06:59 PM	#17
S-Dog Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: Burrillville, RI Posts: 778	can you post some pics so we can tell you where your assembly problem is?

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