Someone say DIY Wheel adapters?

[Mutt]

Yes, I am finally finishing/posting about the DIY wheel adapters.



From Left To Right

Narrowed 40 series velocity 23mm HD wheel with Losi LST Claw (wait these don't fit 40's?? stretchem, they do)

Stock 40 series velocity 23mm HD wheel with Losi LST Claw

Unmounted Losi LST Claw

Mounted, narrowed, cut, Nylint wheel/tire.



Narrowed nylint, losi on narrowed 40series velocity, losi on stock 40 series velocity

I plan to modify the tread of the lst similar to how we cut 1:1 boggers (no not pull the little lugs, but cut in half the large lugs so they can conform)

The wheel and tire combo seems much lighter than the factory combo, but the adapters take away a bit of that...


This is for 23mm wheels, I chose this size because of the ease to make the adapter, you'll see what i mean.

You'll need
All can be had at rural king
- 23mm wheel
- 5/8" nut
- 1/4" drive 6pt 10mm std or deep well socket
- 4x.70mmx (30mm or 50mm depending on width) bolt. Or you can do as i did, cut the head off and use it to make a stud.
- 4mm nylock nut or nut
- 4mm washer and lock washer
- fender washer to fit inside the wheel since the centers on these wheels are so open
- Vise helps
And thats it really

You'll need a dremel, drill, hammer, easier if you have a welder, if not you'll need epoxy of some kind or a good set of taps.

Take your dremel and sand down the 10mm axle slightly because the socket is a TIGHT or impossible fit, a 12point will NOT work just FYI.

Use your dremel to sand around the edges of the 5/8" nut until it drops into the wheel, good luck finding a "23mm nut or jam nut" to fit properly.

Now you can either dremel the inside threads of the nut until the socket slides freely, or just use your BFH to make it a press fit as i did.

Figure out what offset you would like and cut off the remanding socket flush because this end is going to mate flush inside the wheel.

- Now either put a tac weld or two on the nut/sock (what i did)
- Apply epoxy (jbweld or equiv) in such a way to hold them together
- Drill a hold through the nut and socket and tap it for a set screw or bolt to keep the two from turning (yeah right, i test drove with just the press fit, and yes, it took a good sized swing with my 10lb hand sledge to press the fit)

Dab a little red loctite on the bolt threads and thread it into the axle stub, cut the end off and now you've got yourself a stud.

Put your new wheel on the axle, drop on the big ole fender washer and then the small 4mm washer, and either your lock washer or nylon locking nut.

Here's the pictures in order

For the front hubs i cut just on the line where the inner hex stops, wanted to keep the scrub radius as close to factory as possible so it eased the steering.



Front wheel adapter pressed, welded, and ground




Pressing the rear wheel adapter to get the desired width


Almost the right width but not close.


This is the width i decided on for the rear


The fender washer, washer, lockwasher, and nut i am using.



As I said, you can set the width at anything you want if you wanted it silly wide


Final chosen width, just right!


Some poser shots, no foams, and NO TIRE GLUE, the things are stretched over the wheels and are AIR TIGHT, if i pull on the bead and squeeze the tire it will goosh air out and hold negative pressure, it won't spin on the beads or push off the beads, i don't think i'm going to bother to glue them on at this time until i figure out what pressure i want to run.



I was waiting to paint the wheels and adapters until i finished them all.

These things have crazy grip i can only imagine the moabs, i definately need to add bb's to these as well, many times i found myself pulling the front tires off the ground where before it would sit and spin. If there is even one tire with traction it will push, pull, or slide you along, unreal traction!!! Even turning on pavement you can hear them claw, drag, and bark.

It still steers just as it did before, just like my 1:1 with aired down tires, steer and wait on the sidewalls as you roll forward slightly.

It's just unreal the difference changing tires made.

Ask away, i know you will, and if you don't like 23mm wheels then just weld on a nut that will fit a 12 or 14mm wheel.

The 23mm is easier because you can "press" it through a 5/8" nut and drill and tap it. With a 12 or 14mm setup the only solution i can see is welding, and I know not everyone has access to a welder.

[scout21972]

This does sound really simple. Do you like the wider tires? I think they look a lot better. Post some pics please.

[adawg69]

that looks good with wider tires on it
how does it steer?

[Mutt]

Finally updated it guys.

[D.I.L.L.I.G.A.F.]

dam that mod is sik, are you gonna leave the wheels white or change them up...

[ColquittCustom405]

Looking good, even with those "Flintstone" hand of yours...Ewwweww

[Mutt]

I deal with alot of powder chemicals and such at work and its been cold and windy the past few days here so my skins a little dry.

Desk jobs won't get you calluses fawker

Gonna paint everything flat black, if you read the post you'd see I was waiting until i was done with modifications.


Oh and if anyone needs to know, front and rear axle parts can be easily swapped.

Nylint sent me a rear axle finally after i had already jbweld fixed mine long ago and i used those parts to fix my front axle.

The only difference is the hubs (DUH) and the shaft is a different lenght with a different end on one side, other than that it's totally interchangable.

[vlmarshall]

Try dyeing them. Go get some RIT dye, or similar, and give them a bath. I used to dye all my white nylon stuff on the old RC-10s, it should work on your wheels too...

Red comes out kinda pink, I used to use purple or black, and while I was at it, I'd throw in a ton of white nylon cable ties...

The nylon absorbs some water at the same time, and it makes it a little less brittle...so it's not an all 'show' mod...

[Face The Karma]

lol before u guys all run out and make adaptors for ur nylint to run different tires u might want to hear this.... i pretty much did the same mod to my 1:6 not as wide tho, anyways the down side of having "bigger/wider" tires is that its really hard in high gear(like any1 uses it) and steering is a pain and another thing is it will strip ur gears whn u get into a bind on the rocks(even just alil bind) it puts alot of stress onto them, lol i have 40s moabs on my 1:6 and took it to a get together it crawled nice, tires gripped welll but trying to turn was a b!tch and the nxt day i was just goofin off in my backyard on lil rocks and "grind" the gears stripped... just wanted to let u guys know that its a very good chance it will happen.

[Mutt]

DId you have O-Rings? Amplifies a problem nylint made a solution for, belts that can slip.

High range? HA, thats a waste on all but down hill assaults

I still run stock belts, but have reinforced a few driveline components and jb welded (not jb kwik) alot of the drivetrain. When in a substantial bind the belts with chirp and i know to back up and either hit it harder or try another line. Its a toy, pick it up. Just like in 1:1 its no fun if its always broken every trip out and you hardly get to use it.

As far as gears stripping, what "gears" in yours stripped. If you have not added additional REAL grease to your gearbox than normal usage already ate away pretty much most of the soft material in these planetary boxes.

I've run over 11 batteries through mine on my stock gen2 planetary boxes and they are still in 1 piece.

Breakage is part of wheeling, you build it, break it, upgrade it, and do it some more. But if you are not going to take the time to upgrade or improve the part that continues to break then you should downsize or try a different driving style.

As for me, I am going to wheel the hell out of it and see if the gears strip.

Don't be skeerd

[Face The Karma]

yeah i know what wheeling is about, but why waste time on a wal-mart toy? id rather do comps and such, but thats me. i wasnt trying say ur wrong for doing it, just be aware it happened to me, so when it does happens u have a clue hat might have happened then waste ur time looking for the prob.(it might not happen at all)

mine is stock O-rings, when i put different ones in it wouldnt move just chirp, then i just kinda threw it aside and worked on a spec-truck.

im building my cousin's 1:18 scorp up, gonna run a 4link and low/low gear with my old 1:6 tires on it

sorry if i offended u, was just trying to warn u and give u a heads up.