|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
06-16-2010, 12:41 AM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: northern utah
Posts: 479
| pics of homemade dig setups
Hey guys as we all know it seems you have to have dig to compete at all today, and well since I got laid off a week or so ago I've got time and not much money and so I want to build I rear did unit for my axial. So if you guys could post up pics of your setups id really appreciate it. Also I have access to lathes and mills at school if that helps... thanks guys
|
Sponsored Links | |
06-16-2010, 01:57 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: NH
Posts: 427
|
I made somewhat of a dig for one of my trucks. I say some what because its not really a dig. I had this on one of them to disconnect the front drive shaft for some 2wd action, so it doesn't lock either axle it just disconnects one but maybe it will help you with some ideas. I don't have a lathe or mill, just some brake tubing, aluminum, and brazing materials. This is based off ckrc's ft dig, heres the output for the trans: The output for the trans and the shaft it mates to the output installed in the trans all the pieces the assembled pieces dig installed Close up I put this thing thru tons of abuse, I'd get stuck in 2wd and hold the throttle pinned and dump it into 4wd and it never failed |
06-16-2010, 02:24 PM | #3 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: MUSE, PA
Posts: 1,273
|
mascman did a nice write up with pics on how to use a stock plastic TLT knuckle with max shafts. TLT Steering Knuckle as DIG Slider it works relatively well. i used this anytime i i had to put a dig on a 'Pede tranny. some notes on this method, though: basically ANY Tamiya plastic 1/10 scale front 4WD knuckle will work for this. he just used a TLT knuckle, cause that is what he had available. when i did it, i used a dark impact knuckle, got the same result. also, i would suggest finding a SOFT mini-t/rc-18t front shock spring and putting it on the AXLE side of the driveshaft between the knuckle and U-joint. this gets compressed when dig is engaged, and just a bit of a boost to help with re-engaging it. and lastly, on the TRANNY side of the driveshaft, if you use maxx shafts, the male splines are different, one side is a pair of narrow splines, the other is a pair of wider splines. i recomend shaving about a 1/2 inch of the wider splines off from the end of the shaft. it will make it so your knuckle will always re-engage. oh, and when you cut the 2 male shafts for this, the side that gets connected to the axle can just have a flat end on it, but the side that connects to the tranny should be tapered a bit. (surprisingly, a PENCIL SHARPENER makes a nice taper for this...) and trust me, this set up works. it may not have a true lock on it, but i never really had any issues with it wanting to not pivot when i would have the dig engaged. ok, phew, that was a long post. |
06-16-2010, 03:05 PM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: waterville
Posts: 525
| Dig build thread. this is the one i made. i did not use the exact materials, but it worked very well for my application and is reliable. also very cheap to do as well. |
06-17-2010, 11:51 PM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: northern utah
Posts: 479
|
hmmm ok, thanks guys! how would you make one with a lock, freewheel, and 4wd?
|
06-17-2010, 11:57 PM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,927
| With the last one it is pretty easy. The idea behind "lock" is you want something that is *STRONG* that will lock the driveshaft out. Freewheel is pretty easy, the collar slides down just enough to let the drive shaft "not engage" and 4WD is real obvious, its engaged and going |
| |