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09-13-2010, 04:40 PM
| #1 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: winchester
Posts: 19
|  ax10 slipper clutch
how to get the slipper clutch to be solid so it wont slip and is that a good idea
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09-13-2010, 05:01 PM
| #2 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: San Diego
Posts: 40
| Quote:
and bad Idea. The slipper clutch is there to slip before plastic parts twist and break. I ran mine very tight at first and had to replace a buncha parts. Loosened it up so if you lock up the back wheels and hit the throttle it will twit up, and the front end will barely come off the ground. I've not had it slip when it shouldn't have, but it does slip if I jam a tire under something and get all bound up. | |
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09-13-2010, 07:02 PM
| #3 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: East Bay
Posts: 350
| If it is your fist crawler run the slipper. As time goes on you will figure out how much bind you can put on your drive train before something brakes. At that point pick up a slipper eliminator kit. In my kids I run a slash slipper set up. It has held up a lot better then the stock set up with a 35T and a 3s lipo and only slips under crazy binds. |
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09-13-2010, 07:15 PM
| #4 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: North Idaho
Posts: 3,648
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Dunno... It really depends on your motor/ESC combo you are running. If you are running a 45-65T powered by 2S/8-cell I'd say dump the slipper altogether. If you are running BL, 35T and/or 3S, then snug the slipper down all the way... |
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09-13-2010, 07:21 PM
| #5 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: winchester
Posts: 19
|  thanks who else sells that slipper eliminator rpp is sold out
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09-13-2010, 09:21 PM
| #6 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: GILBERT
Posts: 751
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drill and tap some holes and put screws in it
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09-14-2010, 02:25 AM
| #7 |
| Rock Crawler  Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Commiskey
Posts: 585
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Buy nothing, just titen the nut down till the spring is fully compressed. Then you get to deal with driveshafts and tranny outputs. |
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