Bent rod ends for triangulated links

[WAM]

Originally Posted by corkysk8

This is a pic of the Losi 17 degree bent rod ends next to a Revo rod end. The Losi rod end is as long as a Jato rod end, so you can cut to fit it. You can see in the second pic there is plenty of material to fit 4mm or 8-32 set screws once drilled. If you use these, use a set screw all the way to the bend for increase strength.

You're right. Both the screw bore and ball bore are significantly smaller than the Revo3.3, but the body is about the same. So like you suggested, I was thinking I could drill the body enough to fit 8-32's and maybe use the Revo ball in the Losi body to allow a 3mm attachment bolt. But it looks like the Revo ball would be a little loose. Could I drill the Losi ball? The Losi ball ID measures 2.6mm. Drilling that to a 3mm clearance hole might be a push. But you say you've done it. I wonder if there are any other 3mm balls that might fit the Losi eye better. Or could I put a Revo ball in a big vise and squeeze it, pushing the OD out a little? It needs to "grow" about 12 thou.

And yes, I always use a long enough set screw that I can drive it all the way to the bottom of the hole for strength. Mcmaster has a nice supply of various length alloy steel set-screws both metric and SAE. I didn't check to see if the Losi hole is full depth, but no matter -- it can be.

[corkysk8]

Go back to my first post. I use a Dremel cutter bit to bore out the Losi ball to fit 3mm bolts.

[Erik D_lux]

Or you can just use the 4-40 screw. .006 difference will not matter (from 4-40 to 3mm), especially if the bolt is tight.

[WAM]

Yeah I think drilling it to 3mm or switching to 4-40 are both workable.

Or if I really want to beef things up I could use the 4x4mm aluminum rod end and drill the chassis and axle to fit 4mm attach bolts.

At a comp yesterday, I saw three rod end failures. Two were broken bodies and the third was a thread pull-out (wasn't deep enough). It's almost enough to want to give up on the plastic and accept aluminum's weight penalty.

[donhd04]

One year later and Im in the same boat as the OP. Im looking at the RC4WD aluminum bent rod ends that are 4mm. Anyone have any input on these? I'm looking to run these with 4mm all thread and 1/4" titanium tubing if I can find it.

[donhd04]

bumpin this for the reason posted above. Is the M4 about the same as the 8/32 that im using on the revo rod ends?

[WAM]

8-32 is .164" dia and M4 is .157". Both will work with a Revo r/e. But you originally asked about aluminum rod ends. Some say they wear out fast and my own experience is some seem to have a loose fit on the balls.

[donhd04]

Originally Posted by WAM

8-32 is .164" dia and M4 is .157". Both will work with a Revo r/e. But you originally asked about aluminum rod ends. Some say they wear out fast and my own experience is some seem to have a loose fit on the balls.

The reason im asking about the M4 is, I don't wanna go down in strength. I wanna stay the same or have more. but by loose fit do you mean they pop out easy. I only wish that someone made a curved revo rod end or a curved jato rod end but that doesn't seem to be in existance right now. The purpose of these is to get a better grasp on a more precise link measurement after the cut. Im using (right now with revo rod ends) the 8/32 all thread and 1/4 stainless tube. When I bend the links neither side comes out the same due to the metal having the slight spring back effect. Plus is smashes the hell out of the tubing. So I was trying to find curved rod ends. Any sugguestions or info is greatly appreciated at this point. The rod ends are the more budget friendly option to buying a small bender and all new solid stock and cutting the threads since I don't have a lathe. So Im up and open for anything.