Mip carnage!!!

[day215]

I ordered the wrong length for my Fastback, not thinking, I started cutting the male shaft down. I soon found out that the splines in the female bone didn't quite go back as deep as I thought, so I cut out a small section and shortened the female, good penetration on the weld, life was good....until today.

The finished product


What a Brood handwound is capable of






The bone exploded at the spline end, no where near the weld. I haven't had more than 2 packs thru it since I put the shafts on, and no comps. I'm angry!

[War Pig]

I'd guess you removed the heat treating from it and weakened the metal.

Why exactly are you so angry?

[Rook82]

Possibly that combined with now all of that power is engaged with only 1/4 to 1/2 inch of spline compared to probably an inch or more stock. More torque per square inch type o thing, I assume? Sucks as Mip's are not cheap.

[day215]

Originally Posted by War Pig

I'd guess you removed the heat treating from it and weakened the metal.

Why exactly are you so angry?

I spend more time and money fixing this stupid truck more than actually driving it. I understand that's it all part of the game, but I really did have high hopes for these shafts. I wasn't aware that they were heat treated, I'll most likely have to shorten another female bone, any suggestions on how to keep it from happening again? I could just buy a male and female for a dig, but I'm cheap and I'm broke.

[War Pig]

I think you'd better just save up some money and buy the right drivelines......or take it easy on the rig until you get the right ones. Something tells me you're a little rough on your crawler.

[DioptricStraw]

Maybe look into the drive shafts from Junfac, they are 17$ each and available in lots of different lengths.

[Rook82]

Originally Posted by day215

I spend more time and money fixing this stupid truck more than actually driving it. I understand that's it all part of the game, but I really did have high hopes for these shafts. I wasn't aware that they were heat treated, I'll most likely have to shorten another female bone, any suggestions on how to keep it from happening again? I could just buy a male and female for a dig, but I'm cheap and I'm broke.

I would check your driveshafts to make sure they are not binding as well. That looks like the kind of damage that would happen if the joints were at to great of an angle and binding. If at full droop you can not fully rotate a tire without feeling it lock up at points, you may or do have binding. Try (after fixing bad shaft) to hold the rig with wheels off the ground. If the tires do not spin smoothly when applying small throttle and kind of act like out of balance tires then there is binding. I have found that the MIP drive shafts do not work at as great of an angle as the stock Axial shafts and joints. I have a shorter wheelbase rig that I could not get the MIP's to work without binding on the front axle. They probably could have worked with clockable C's. With those i could have gotten a better pinion angle and not had to set the caster to out of wack. Rear is not a problem as you can put the pinion where you need it and not worry. but the front screws the steering the more you rotate up the pinion (without using clockable C's, etc).

[day215]

Originally Posted by War Pig

I think you'd better just save up some money and buy the right drivelines......or take it easy on the rig until you get the right ones. Something tells me you're a little rough on your crawler.

Believe it or not, I baby this thing, if I'm stuck I'll ease up or back out. I have candy caned jato shafts, stampede shafts, and now snapped an mip shaft, but I swear I'm easy on my rig. All of the carnage has come during front digs, Brood makes one hell of a motor.

I'll have to look into the Junfac shafts as a cheaper alternative.

[day215]

Excellent call on the pinion angle, during digs, the front squats down and geometry is way out of sorts. That may just be the issue.

[DISTURBIN' tha PEACE]

It's not the motor.............................

[dstrbd1]

I got a set of MIPS off my fastback. $30 for both front and rear shafts shipped. Let me know

-Trent

[Erin]

Front digs add a ton of stress to the driveline in general. When running pullers i really had to be careful when digging or all hell could break loose.

If your compressing under dig, angles should get better unless your pinion is diving from weird link geometry.

[spookyseven]

How about running a slipper clutch?

[team3six]

Funny thing is many of us drive and have been for awhile.
You take something that in its natural condition is great and change to an extreme like that and you should deserve disappointment.

I have altered MiP dogbones care of the DMG and have no issues running a holmes motor. Yes Eddie makes a great motor, but I think its more likely you weaking the dogbones to the point there was not enough support.

Like warpig said. You should purchase the proper size bones and set up your approach angles and driveline cebters to decrease stress.

[johnnyh66]

they make dig length shafts.

If you continue to blow through them, I'd suggest a cheaper/weaker driveshaft... and just know you'll need to change them out.

I also have a short wb scaler and it's been hell on the drive shafts. I have been using Maxx shafts and I cut several at once, knowing that I'll need to replace them. I take them with me every time I take the rig out.

I just got some MIP's though and I'm trying to lengthen the wb just enough that they'll work but not push the wb to far out of scale... it's all trade off.

[day215]

Originally Posted by team3six

Funny thing is many of us drive and have been for awhile.
You take something that in its natural condition is great and change to an extreme like that and you should deserve disappointment.

I have altered MiP dogbones care of the DMG and have no issues running a holmes motor. Yes Eddie makes a great motor, but I think its more likely you weaking the dogbones to the point there was not enough support.

Like warpig said. You should purchase the proper size bones and set up your approach angles and driveline cebters to decrease stress.

I guess I shouldn't say I'm angry, just frustrated. You work on something for hours only to break it in minutes, but that's life right.

I fully understand that when you modify something from its original condition, you run the risk of having it fail due to working outside its intended usage. Had it been an un- modified shaft, I may have been a little pissed, but the first thing that can to mind when it broke, was maybe I cut it a little too short. I blame myself for it's failure, not the quality of MIP.

I have the correct length shafts on the way, I'll bite the bullet and loosen the slipper clutch a bit, and wait for the next part to break, all part of the game.

[MRCCRAWLER1.9]

Originally Posted by day215

I guess I shouldn't say I'm angry, just frustrated. You work on something for hours only to break it in minutes, but that's life right.

I fully understand that when you modify something from its original condition, you run the risk of having it fail due to working outside its intended usage. Had it been an un- modified shaft, I may have been a little pissed, but the first thing that can to mind when it broke, was maybe I cut it a little too short. I blame myself for it's failure, not the quality of MIP.

I have the correct length shafts on the way, I'll bite the bullet and loosen the slipper clutch a bit, and wait for the next part to break, all part of the game.

i understand your situation, gets very annoying with hours of work on something that breaks in minutes.

Also, just the motor CANNOT do that type of damage, under any circumstances! I would highly suggest you check your axles and make sure there isnt any bind. Even the slightest amount of bind can cause this damage to MIP shafts.. I accidently bound my slash 4x4, and MIPs just cracked like glass

[chino63]

Originally Posted by DioptricStraw

Maybe look into the drive shafts from Junfac, they are 17$ each and available in lots of different lengths.

Not a fan of them.
They have a D shape instead of splines and have a very sloppy fit. This causes them to bind under power. If your driveline requires alot of slip yoke, they are not for you. Also, the pins are very brittle, I have broken every one I have run, replace them with piano wire or drill rod for durability.

[lets go jeep]

i shorted a punisher shaft for my crawler and had no issues with them at all