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09-12-2011, 11:26 AM | #1 |
Scale Detail Engineering Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Turtle Island
Posts: 5,573
| remove bearing from knuckle? PICS
I've bee trying all weekend to remove a broken bearing from a Axial high steer knuckle... any ideas? I can take a pic if you need one but basically, the outer ring of the inner (larger) bearing is stuck in there. Think freezing or boiling it would work? Last edited by johnnyh66; 09-13-2011 at 08:31 AM. |
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09-12-2011, 11:30 AM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Salmon Arm BC
Posts: 1,777
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what have you tried?? when i did mine i used a tiny flathead screwdriver and a small hammer and tap on the broken bearing. you might want to clamp the knuckle in a vise first.
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09-12-2011, 11:32 AM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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I have had them stuck before, and got them out of alum. knuckles by banging the knuckle on the concrete floor with the bearing facing the concrete if it is on the rig side, if not try to push it out from the other side with a point object like an extremly small flat head screw driver.
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09-12-2011, 11:32 AM | #4 |
Chassis & Tubework Vendor Join Date: May 2006 Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 660
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I had the same thing happen to me but with xr10 knuckles. I ended up using a dremel to make a relief cut in it. Also had to use a carbide bit because of the hardness of the bearing case.
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09-12-2011, 11:37 AM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: a house
Posts: 1,986
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i lubed the outside of a stuck one i had and then gently pried it out with a small screwdriver, and a o ring remover
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09-12-2011, 11:54 AM | #6 |
Scale Detail Engineering Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Turtle Island
Posts: 5,573
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I pried at it all day long with my utility knife, all my driver heads are to fat to get under it. I banged the heck out of it dozens of times. I even asked it nicely to come out but it won't budge! I can not get to it from the back because it's the larger bearing, no access from the back. I thought about using the dremel cut off wheel but it seems I'll damage the knuckle. I also thought about drilling a hole through the side of the knuckle and bearing to get something in there to pry with. |
09-12-2011, 12:29 PM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Salmon Arm BC
Posts: 1,777
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post a picture of the knuckle then we can see what your trying to do.. is it rusted? melted?? broken into pieces?? if i remember correctly there is a little lip in the middle of the knuckle seperating the 2 bearings take your small screwdriver and jam it between the lip and your bearing and start tapping on it from the backside. |
09-12-2011, 03:34 PM | #8 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks
Posts: 1,980
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same thing happened to me when i was putting new bearings in my aluminum creeper knuckles. I tried and tried and managed to get all the bearing minus the outer casing out. Had a worn down dremel cutoff wheel that i used to cut the outer casing and pried it out. At least we know the bearings arent sloppy in their races |
09-12-2011, 05:48 PM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Universal City, TX
Posts: 408
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Maybe if you heated it up (with a torch or soldering iron) or cooled it down (throw it in the freezer) your efforts would be more persuasive. You could also spray some WD40 on it. |
09-12-2011, 08:11 PM | #10 |
Scale Detail Engineering Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Turtle Island
Posts: 5,573
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pics. and damage from a Junfac widener. I must have a bent cvd. Last edited by johnnyh66; 09-13-2011 at 08:29 AM. |
09-12-2011, 09:19 PM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2011 Location: Lost in Oregon
Posts: 4,450
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carnage.... I actually had some problems getting my bearing into some new VP Knucks...I may never get it back out, had to use the Scorpion Kings favorite (KY) slid right in... |
09-13-2011, 08:31 AM | #12 |
Scale Detail Engineering Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Turtle Island
Posts: 5,573
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09-13-2011, 08:49 AM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ak
Posts: 296
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You could try using a penetrating lubricant and a combination of heat and cold. Most likely there is a little bit of corrosion due to dissimilar metals. If you heat it and cool it a few times you may get enough expansion and contraction of the aluminum and steel ( they grow and shrink at different rates) to get some lubricant worked in between them. Last step would be to start from completely cool, focus heat on the aluminum knuckle and pry/ punch the outer race of the bearing out gently. It may take a few tries depending on the tolerance of the two parts.
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09-13-2011, 10:13 AM | #14 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2010 Location: The heart of the south
Posts: 1,138
| Quote:
The other question is, is anything in there worth salvaging? Looks like the knuckles are shot and with the nicks and chewed up surfaces, you need a new bearing. So I would throw it in the can and buy new. | |
09-13-2011, 10:15 AM | #15 |
Chassis & Tubework Vendor Join Date: May 2006 Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 660
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That's exactly what the bearing in my knuckle looked like. Total pain to get that out. I used this dremel bit: http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessor....aspx?pid=9901 |
09-13-2011, 10:26 AM | #16 |
Scale Detail Engineering Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Turtle Island
Posts: 5,573
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That bit looks promising. I don't think I can cut it without cutting the knuckle, even with my most worn down cut off disk. Neil, trust me man... they have been teetering on the edge of the trash can for 2 weeks now! I have a few other sets of knuckles but none are high steer (except the foff VP's) and none are quality material... except the VP's. I'd like to figure a way to remove them though... for future knuckles. I don't like the idea of throwing out a set of $30 knuckles if I need to change a $1 bearing |
09-13-2011, 11:36 AM | #17 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,236
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You could try getting a piece of rod a similar O.D. and the I.D. of the bearing shell and using some epoxy to glue it to the bearing. That should give you something to hammer on from the backside, just make sure you dont get any on the knuckle. Slotting it is a good idea, they you should be able to get a small flat head down the side and relieve some of the pressure off the fit and it should fall right out. |
09-13-2011, 11:43 AM | #18 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: San Diego
Posts: 698
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Penetrating lube and a pair of pliers with a nice mechanical advantage. Put the edge of one jaw in the middle of the exposed bearing surface. Try and close the pliers, pushing the bearing case into the knuckle and up/out. It should give you way more mechanical advantage than trying to pry. I really need a picture.
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09-13-2011, 12:24 PM | #19 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2009 Location: Calgary
Posts: 911
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Try a drill bit that is a little larger than the bearing - by hand. I had a bearing give out in the same knuckles and that is what I did. Quick n' easy.
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09-13-2011, 12:25 PM | #20 |
Scale Detail Engineering Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Turtle Island
Posts: 5,573
| That's actually the first thing I thought of... if I could get a bit to bite, it'd pop right out. But, I don't have a bit that big.
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