how do you know your slipper is shot?

[jebster]

here is the situation. i have a large 6x6 rig that is heavy (~12lbs). it is powered by a novak goat 3s with a 18.5t brushless motor. running 2s lipo. i have a scx10 tranny (rr metal internals) driving a transfer case.

what i seem to be having excessive slip on the clutch. anytime i get a little bind the slipper spins away. i've tightened the clutch up as far as it will go and it still slips.

so the question is do i have a setup that is just to heavy for the stock scx10 slipper to work effectively or is it more likely that the slipper pads are wore out? i don't have another slipper to compare to and i got the one i have used so i'm not sure what a slipper should look like.

if i'm just running too heavy of a rig are there other options for a slipper?

[ROWDY RACING]

Ditch the slipper.

[Sr.Irie]

when your toes hang out and get cold

[jebster]

Originally Posted by Sr.Irie

when your toes hang out and get cold

in that case a little tape over the hole helps!

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

Ditch the slipper.

that is an option. if i did should i switch back to a stock plastic spur gear (running a hardened metal spur)? i like the idea of the slipper to prevent damage but i also like being able to have enough power to get out of light binds. maybe a plastic spur is the solution since it would probably give before anything else in the drivetrain?

[Sr.Irie]

Back when I raced 1/10 (gold pan RC10) we would use different thicknesses and materials of gasket material to adjust the force and drag of the slipper clutch. In a crawler I would loose it though

[slim_chance]

Swap to a traxxas white spur gear and toss the slipper. My experience is the traxxas spurs are tough and have slipped a tooth when really bound up with no damage to anything.

[Ammo Troop]

Newbie question, I see a lot of post about slippage and just removing the slipper clutch. Mt question is, How to adjust the clutch?, I've replaced the spur gear and going to replace it again to fix my last upgrade. How much slip should I have and how do I set it there?

Ammo Troop

[B94Cast]

IMO - slipper is a great thing - getting rid of it just saves you a few minutes of hassle, and can cost a lot in broken parts. I would say adjust by:
Tighten all the way down, back off 1.5 turns.
Should be tight enough to not slip until parts are about ready to break. Obviously adjusting this way is a shortcut - but better than getting rid of it. Personally, I adjust it several times until I get it just right - bring a key with you to adjust as you run, it's only a few minutes out of hours worth of a single run - well worth it IMO!

[Ammo Troop]

Thanks B94Cast. That's good info. It's nice to have a starting point.

Ammo Troop

[Calderwood]

In my experience if the axial slipper is ever allowed to slip it will never transmit the amount of torque I like ever again. When I put together the slipper I tighten it as much as I can with the little cross wrench. Slippers where great for racing before we had decent radios/escs but they don't have any use in a crawler. IMO either keep it locked down from the beginning or use an eliminator.

[hotwheels000]

This Slipper Eliminator Kit - AX10 SCX10 Wraith

[OregonCrawlerKing]

Keep the damn slipper. Guys, he said he has a 12lb 6x6. A rig that heavy will break something easily when bound. It wont jump around like a lighter rig will. I would recommend getting a slipper rebuild kit. New disk, new pads and tighten that thing down all the way until it wont go any more and then back it off a 1/2 turn. You can start with 1 1/2 turns and then keep going until you find it slipping when it needs to. You don't want to sheer off your axles or drive lines when out on the trail. Trust me, I have. It sucks. I did get a heavy duty spur gear from Robinson Racing and it holds up better than a stock Axial or Traxxas. I have also, in a bind waiting for new parts, just turned over the pads on my Traxxas slipper as they just got glazed like real brake pads can do. It lasted long enough that way until i got my new pads in.

[phllint]

Originally Posted by B94Cast

IMO - slipper is a great thing - getting rid of it just saves you a few minutes of hassle, and can cost a lot in broken parts. I would say adjust by:
Tighten all the way down, back off 1.5 turns.
Should be tight enough to not slip until parts are about ready to break. Obviously adjusting this way is a shortcut - but better than getting rid of it. Personally, I adjust it several times until I get it just right - bring a key with you to adjust as you run, it's only a few minutes out of hours worth of a single run - well worth it IMO!

Don't listen to him. Its great advice for a 5lb. Rig but yours is 12. If you have to have a slipper clutch, go to the gen 3 slipper for the slash and that should work great.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

[jebster]

Originally Posted by phllint

Don't listen to him. Its great advice for a 5lb. Rig but yours is 12. If you have to have a slipper clutch, go to the gen 3 slipper for the slash and that should work great.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

What are the benefits of the gen 3 slipper? Is it a direct swap?

The rebuild kit is a good idea if nothing else works. And I put my rig on a scale the other day. She's a slim 18lbs!!!

[benster]

I'd say the benefits are that it's a much stronger slipper if it's made for the slash and will probably be able to keep slipping until you need it unlike what you have now. I also say you should keep it, better having a slipper that slips than breaking parts every ride you do.

hopefully the slash one fits and works great for you

[slim_chance]

Ok I was definitely not paying that much attention. Yes for a 12lb rig a slipper is needed. I say go with the slash one too. I don't know about direct fit or not though.

[Bananaclip]

I always lock mine down. Slippers blow.

[hotwheels000]

You control the throttle, and if you can do that...

12 pound rigs don't break parts, 12 pound fingers do !!!!!!!!

[Locked Up]

Without having it in hand it's hard to say exactly what your issue is.
Having said that ...

You are talking about slippage occurring when you are bound up, which doesn't really change from an 8lb rig to a 12lb rig. A 2lb rig that gets bound up will cause a slipper to slip too. So for a moment I am going to ignore the weight because you are talking about slipping when bound, not life of the slipper parts.

If you think the slip is excessive, and you have tried to tighten the slipper, then it's probably worn out. Especially if it is used and was not a "new take off" item. Should you replace it depends on your intended use and the makeup of the rest of the drive train.

A stock slipper can work on a heavy rig but it is going to require more attention and replacement than it would on a lighter rig. This is because a bouncing 2lb rig would be less likely to cause slip than a bouncing 12lb rig. The more it slips the faster it wears out and on a 12lb rig I would not expect a super long service life from a slipper, depending on your driving style of course.


Since you mentioned metal internals on the transmission I would hazard to guess that you have upgraded the outdrives, drive shafts and the axle shafts. So if you have replaced the plastic drive train parts with metal parts I would say you can consider ditching the slipper all together. Hotwheels000 already provided a link so I won't repeat it.


If you have plastic driveshafts or OEM outdrives, then I would refurbish or search for some replacement pads for the slipper. Get it running like new, then you can determine if it will do what you want/need it to.

If you have problems finding parts, let me know. I have a new in the box G6 kit that will getting assembled without the included slipper.

[v84x4]

Slipper Clutches can be your friend or foe
But if you learn how to adjust it & know what it's purpose is ..............then it can help you from breaking more expensive parts

That being said:

A Slipper pads can become "Glazed" just like a Brake Pad

Try scuffing up the slipper pad with some sand paper first and see if that helps
Also try a heave duty spring
This will allow you to make smaller increments (Adjustments) with the Nut
allowing for more adjustment

Last but not least:
Move into a Bigger slipper
A bigger slipper pad area will also allow for more adjustment and better control of slipping

Look Here:
Robinson Racing 32P Slipper Kit Steel Slipper(56T) - Super Shafty

Hope this helps

Best Regards Rick