Replacement for Twin Force hub carriers

[Soya]

Are the MP 7.5 front hubs the same?

[Reflection]

I think they are. I bought some spares at my LHS a while back. I had no idea what they were intended for but I knew they were 1:8 scale buggy knuckles. They fit and work like the stock ones do.

I've noticed that some knuckles have a little difference in the arms on them for steering. Some are longer and some are shorter. Thats easy enough to work around,just put a tiny bend in your tie rod and your golden.

[Mnster]

Twin Force Knuckle question

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...hlight=knuckle

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...725#post537725

[Soya]

Showoff.

[Soya]

Well aparently mp 7.5 hubs don't work, they have maybe 5 degrees negative camber machined into them. There goes $35. Any other ideas?

[Mnster]

Options..

1. Beg rc4wd

2. Buy the stockers

3. More CA



I'll see if I can find that magazine on the twin force in R/C car action. As so we can find the original donor car.

[Soya]

1st one won't work, second one sure as hell won't work. We could mill, drill and retap for a m5 but the links won't work then.

[Reflection]

Can you post a picture of your truck? Why won't the stockers work?

[Soya]

Stockers break way too easy.

[Cole82]

Twin Tuber

[Reflection]

Allot of your trouble is the weight,and you probably realize that. At the same time,the stockers have always worked well for me. My current Twin,doesn't weight near 19 lbs,but it does have a 2 horsepower outrunner in it,9 cells and I get EXTREMELY rough with it at times. I also run my 8 1/2" LST's at times away from comps.

Some of the other builds my Twin has gone through....one of them had reached the 24 lbs. mark Others were between 17 and 20 lbs. Most of them,ran Kongs full time as that was before I started going to comps.

3 of the knuckles on my Twin are the stock parts from the original kit I built from. I bought a few spares a while back because the threads stripped out for the 5mm bolts on one of them.

Is there a certain spot that they normally break on your rig? I've been looking at allot of different 1:8 scale knuckles. It's hard to tell which ones have the caster built into them to know to avoid that perticular one. I have noticed though,that different brands have a shade different webbing or support gussests built into them in different areas. If theres a certain spot yours break,I'd look for ones that have an extra thick gusset in that spot.

[Soya]

They break around the steering link mounting hole. 2 so far. And I've stripped out the kingpin holes on 2 others.

[Reflection]

As far as the steering link hole,if the rod end was mounted in double sheer,it would probly eliminate that problem. I've often thought about trying it out for ****z and giggles. If I ever broke one there,that'd be my first attempt to fix it.

I took a photo of my brothers truck. Drew a little piece at the bottom. Place this piece on the knuckles arm,run a bolt through the knuckle arm to this piece. The section of the new piece thats raised up,will ride atop the rod end capturing both side of the ball. That should eliminate any bolt ripping the threads outta the knuckle arm or any deflection it may have. Honestly,I think it'd make it allot stronger. On the side where you have 2 rod ends,just run the new piece on top and bottom.

[RXcrawler]

HA didn't realize at first that the pics was cropped together and was think DAMN tha taxle is narrow. DUH

[Mnster]

Your the one that works at a hobby shop. Just start ordering a bunch of different brands till we find some that will work. Call and ask a bunch of places. They are in fact Mp7.5 knuckles, according to RCCA.

Double shear or not with the our wheel widener setup the knuckle will snap.

I was driving the truck just putting along when the one tire caught just the corner of the garage wall, brrruuusssh, sheer just like that.

The king pin holes are striped out on more then one knuckle, one knuckle arm shears. What does that mean? Poor materials. Crappy pot metal.

[STEEL_CITY_CRAWLER]

wouldn't the knuckles from the new 777 truggy be a better fit? i think it would be, considering it is designed to tuck up into "roughly" the same sized wheels.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Mnster

Double shear or not with the our wheel widener setup the knuckle will snap.

Double shear WILL help reguardless. It'll push/pull the knuckle without any chance of a twisting motion from a single shear mount In a high stress area,like your knuckle,any single shear mount will have some form of deflection. If you mod the knuckle like I recommened,it'd take away the deflection and put some of the forces closer to the knuckles body where it's stronger

I didn't know you had wideners. Thats a bigger part of your troubles You guys are working with the only axle you can make ANY width you want,and you run wideners to create a weak link Build wider axles and run a deeper wheel. It'll relieve some of the stress off the knuckles,stubs,bearings and hub carriers

I'd bet you hardly break if you did that

What width are you at now? Stock housings? That puts you at 12" hex to hex. Running 2 longsides will get you right at 13" hex to hex. Depending on your wideners width,you could probly loose them and still be the same width,depending on how you narrow the wheel

[Soya]

I'm not going to build wider axles because I already have $90 in driveshafts. I'm not using different wheels because I have a lot of money in these as well. The wheels work fine.

I'm not sure why you're trying to convince me to use the stock carriers still either, they strip out too easily and they're weak to begin with. So just stop.

[Mnster]

Originally Posted by raptorman57

Double shear WILL help reguardless.

Yes it will, but it will not solve our issue with these knuckles completely. The king pin holes also strip. Diecast is for toy matchbox cars and not for knuckles.

Originally Posted by raptorman57

Thats a bigger part of your troubles You guys are working with the only axle you can make ANY width you want,and you run wideners to create a weak link Build wider axles and run a deeper wheel. It'll relieve some of the stress off the knuckles,stubs,bearings and hub carriers

Not exactly any width we want. Rc alloys drive shafts are about the only thing that I would consider that would hold up. We already have issues with the drive cups cracking off from the torque. Each widener is about 1 1/2 long. Yes I know wide is bad, its common sense of leverage. But, making the axle a little over 3 inches wider then stock cannot be done without custom shafts.

Originally Posted by raptorman57

I'd bet you hardly break if you did that

Hmm, Hyperion brushless, 12cells, kong tires, and 16 pounds worth of truck. A 1/4 scale servo with a little over 550 oz of torque. Yeah I don't think we would break any.

Originally Posted by STEEL_CITY_CRAWLER

wouldn't the knuckles from the new 777 truggy be a better fit? i think it would be, considering it is designed to tuck up into "roughly" the same sized wheels.

The 777 truggy knuckles are borrowed from the 777 buggy. The knuckles from the 777 buggy where borrowed from the MP 7.5 buggy. The knuckles from the mad force are supposed to be borrowed from the MP 7.5.

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by Soya

I'm not going to build wider axles because I already have $90 in driveshafts. I'm not using different wheels because I have a lot of money in these as well. The wheels work fine.

I'm not sure why you're trying to convince me to use the stock carriers still either, they strip out too easily and they're weak to begin with. So just stop.

How does a wider axle affect your driveshafts?

I'm not trying to convince you to run stock stuff. I'm pointing out the areas that are putting more stress on the parts that are breaking. I do feel like if the set up was a little better there would be allot less breakage.

Run what you want,I could give a crap It ain't my wallet

You guys saying that the stockers are junk or weak is a far cry from the truth though